Impedance Matching

Since a transmission line has impedance built in, the natural question to ask is, how does the impedance affect signals that are relayed through a transmission line from one device to another? The answer to this question ultimately depends on the impedance of the devices to which the transmission line is attached. If the impedance of the transmission line is not the same as the impedance of, say, a load connected to it, the signals propagating through the line will only be partially absorbed by the load. The rest of the signal will be reflected back in the direction it came. Reflected signals are generally bad things in electronics. They represent an inefficient power transfer between two electrical devices. How do you get rid of the reflections? You apply a technique called impedance matching. The goal of impedance matching is to make the impedance of two devices that are to be joined equal. The impedance-matching techniques make use of special matching networks that are inserted between the devices.

Unmatched Impedance

A high-impedance transmission line that is connected to a low-impedance load is, analogous to a high-density rope connected to a low-density rope. If you impart a pulse at the left end of the high-density rope (analogous to sending an electrical signal through a line to a load), the pulse will travel along the rope without problems until it reaches the low-density rope (load). At that time, the pulse will induce a longer-wavelength pulse within the low-density rope and will induce a similar wavelength but inverted and diminished pulse that rebounds back toward the left end of the high-density rope. From this analogy, again you can see that only part of the signal energy from the high-density rope is transmitted to the low-density rope.

Techniques for Matching Impedance

This section looks at a few impedance-matching techniques. As a rule of thumb, with most low-frequency applications where the signal’s wavelength is much larger than the cable length, there is no need to match line impedance. Matching impedance is usually reserved for high-frequency applications. Moreover, most electrical equipment, such as oscilloscopes, video equipment, etc., has input and output impedance that match the characteristic impedance of coaxial cables (typically 50 Ω). Other devices, such as television antenna inputs, have characteristic input impedance that match the characteristic impedance of twin-lead cables (300 Ω). In such cases, the impedance matching is already taken care of. A short length of transmission line that is open ended or short-circuit terminated possesses the property of having an impedance that is reactive. By properly choosing a segment of open-circuit or short-circuit line and placing it in shunt with the original transmission line at an appropriate position along the line, standing waves can be eliminated. The short segment of wire is referred to as a stub.

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Do you own a car or drive one? The number of automatic transmission vehicles has been growing now days. But, you can still find several vehicles with manual transmissions, which are performing well on the road. However, you need to be little careful with the gearbox and clutch to avoid any damage to the transmission or other integrated parts. Otherwise, you will have the need for Clutch & Gearbox Repairs very soon. However, regular service is must for every type of car to keep it maintained. Once, the day will come, when you will have to go for repairing your worn clutch or transmission at some garage center.

If you avoid this repairing work, then it may cause serious damage to your vehicle and thus you will have to spend more money on the repair.

Clutch is basically consisted of throwout/release bearing, clutch disc, and pressure plate. Flywheel, master and slave cylinders, and clutch fork are a few more parts that are important to make it function well. Clutch transmits the power from engine to gearbox and also disconnects the connection between transmission and engine when you shift the gear or put it in neutral.

You have read several articles and blogs about every symptom which let you inform that your vehicle’s transmission system has some problem. Here, we are trying to familiarize you with the most common issues with a clutch system, when you drive an MT vehicle.

Clutch Fluid Leak:

Clutch fluid and brake fluid are often taken interchangeably. If you find the brake fluid is leaking near the clutch pedal, then you need to look at this issue seriously. If it does happen, then you find difficulty in changing gears.

Slipping Clutch:

When you change the gear, a slight and smooth slip is fine. But, when it becomes harsh or starts slipping automatically while the clutch is engaged, then the issue needs to be taken seriously by car owners. Your vehicle’s clutch plate needs the repair or replacement work as soon as possible. Avoiding can cost you expensive with the damages of other adjacent parts, such as flywheel and pressure plate.

Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder Failure:

Clutch fluid travels from master cylinder to slave cylinder and thus transfers the action of clutch pedal to gearbox and clutch. When the clutch is depressed, the fluid flows from master to slave cylinder for the smooth clutch operation. Any leakage to these cylinders can make gear shifting difficult.

Inspect Your Vehicle & Make Necessary Repair and Replacement:

Resolving any of these issues is not possible by an unprofessional. However, you can handle basic types of repair work yourself, but handling heavy repairs, especially for the transmission is very difficult. Technicians can inspect your vehicle deeply for the problems and then decide whether to repair the component or replace the one.

The Victory Motorcycle is a very well built piece of machinery. I have owned a Victory Kingpin since 2004. I have had no problems with the motorcycles and am very pleased with my motorcycle. This article will address the one issue I did have that is related to a failed shifter part. The dreaded Victory Shift ratchet.

One day while riding, I began experiencing downshifting problems my kingpin. It only happens from time to time and it feels like it is hanging up when i am trying to downshift. I have adjusted the clutch cable and changed the oil with no resolve. I am running full synthetic AMSOIL 20W50 motorcycle oil in the transmission and was thinking the oils was too thick for the clutch plates. After changing the oil to the Victory OEM multi-blend synthetic, the problem with shifting still existed.

I decided to take a few more test rides to diagnose the problem. I did notice that if i push the shift ratchet shaft in (has about 1/8 inch movement in and out) it seems to temporarily stop the problem. I went to the Victory Motorcycle Solutions community site and have read people talk about shift ratchet as being the culprit. after reading several posts on this information, I contacted my favorite Victory motorcycle dealership, Santa Rosa VeeTwin. They confirmed that I need to replace the shift ratchet. The reason being the rest spring fails over time.

The Victory dealership explained that Victory changed the ratchet somehow after 2000 due to hard shifting complaints. They also stated that they have seen more issues like this with those Victory riders with driver floorboards. The drivers with floor boards will typically do a lazy shift. Anyhow the ratchet will be worn on both ends, thus allowing the shifting to continue down and not engaging.

Being that I am handy with a wrench and always up for a challenge, I ordered the OEM replacement parts from Victory. I needed to get the shift ratchet and new transmission gaskets. I have the Victory Kingpin service manual but it did not explain exactly how to do this shift ratchet replacement. So I took my time and video taped everything.

The basics steps involved in doing this shift ratchet replacement is as follows:

1 – Drain all of the oil out of your Victory Motorcycle. Trust me, I did not do this and made a huge mess when I removed the transmission cover.

2 – Remove all of the transmission cover bolts.

3 – Now the hard part, pull of the transmission cover. Note the clutch magnet is very strong and will not want to give up the cover too easily. Pull straight out and watch your fingers.

4 – Once the cover is off and the remaining oil spills out, observer how the shift ratchet is positioned. Note this by taking a picture or video taping it. You will need to install the new shift ratchet in the same position with the star wheel engaged correctly.

5 – Do the replacement and not clean off the old transmission cover gasket and install the new one. This is a must to prevent leakage.

6 – Install the transmission cover. Again be mindful of the magnet, this will suck the cover right on and take off your finger if you are not paying attention.

7 – Install the cover bolts evenly and check torque settings.

8 – Fill the bike up with AMSOIL full synthetic 20W50 V-Twin motorcycle oil.

9 – Start the bike and check for oil leaks.

10 – If all looks good, test ride the bike and see how wonderful it is to have the shifter working again.

You are now one of the few and proud Victory motorcycle owners to go through this incredible maintenance activity.

Having spent several years in tech support with a company that sells manual transmissions, I have spoken with many customers that have made clutch installation mistakes that cost them dearly in terms of time, money and frustration. These tips are based on my experience with what is frequently overlooked by a novice that is installing a new clutch. This article is NOT a substitute for a good auto repair manual that is specific to the vehicle you are working on! If any of these tips contradict the information in your service manual, follow the service manual instead.

Tip # 1: Lubrication in all the right places (and none of the wrong places!) – Place a light coat of grease on the pilot tip of the input shaft and on the collar that the release bearing slides on. Wipe a VERY light coat of oil on the input shaft splines to prevent rust. Be careful to NOT get any grease on the flywheel, the clutch disc, or the pressure plate.

Tip # 2: Have the flywheel resurfaced, no matter how good it looks. It only costs a few dollars, and the risk of having to remove the transmission again because of a chattering clutch is not worth the money you might save.

Tip # 3: Replace the pilot bearing or bushing. If you don’t have a special pilot bearing puller tool, some service manuals instruct you to remove the old bearing by packing the cavity behind the bearing with grease and using a wooden dowel or old input shaft to drive the old one out. I have found that instead of grease you can use play dough, silly putty, or even some old bread, with equal or better results and way less mess!

Tip # 4: Don’t force anything! If the transmission won’t slide all the way up to the back of the bellhousing, do not draw the transmission up to the bellhousing by tightening the transmission to bellhousing bolts. I can’t tell you how many broken mounting ears and damaged pilot bearings I have seen! If the transmission will not slide all the way in to the bellhousing, then the clutch disc is misaligned or the input shaft is not going into the pilot bearing because the transmission is at an angle. Try this: Install or reattach the clutch linkage, and then have a helper depress the clutch pedal slightly while you wiggle the transmission around to get it aligned. When the clutch disc is released, it will move so that you can get the transmission aligned with the pilot bearing. I fought with a transmission for an hour one time before I thought of this, and then it took about five seconds once I had a helper step on the clutch pedal!

Before tackling your first clutch replacement, I highly recommend reading the complete procedure in a repair manual or factory service manual. Even if you are a seasoned veteran, it doesn’t hurt to take a look at a service manual if you are replacing a clutch in a vehicle you aren’t familiar with.

Prior to the 1980s, most domestic cars and light trucks had transmissions with a 1:1 ratio in high gear, which means that the car’s driveshaft will turn the same speed as the engine. This 1:1 ratio served us well for fifty years or more. As oil prices rose and the country as a whole became increasingly concerned about the amount of air pollution coming from our vehicles, automakers began to look towards overdrive transmissions as part of the solution.

With an overdrive transmission, the top gear is less than a 1:1 ratio, which means that the driveshaft will turn at a faster speed than the engine. For example, if you have a car without overdrive and a 1:1 top gear ratio, a 3.08 axle ratio, and a 26″ tall tire, your engine speed at 70 MPH is about 2750 RPM. The typical overdrive in a domestic car is about a 0.70:1 ratio, which means that in top gear the driveshaft will turn 42.9% faster than engine speed (1 divided by 0.70 = 1.429). In the same car with an overdrive transmission and a 0.70:1 top gear ratio, engine speed at 70 MPH is reduced to 1925 RPM! That is 825 fewer RPM, a reduction of almost one-third.

This reduction in engine speed has several advantages:

1.) Lower fuel consumption – on the highway, your engine will use roughly one-third less fuel.

2.) Lower emissions – on the highway, your engine will emit roughly one-third less pollution.

3.) Longer engine life – all other things being equal, your engine theoretically has a life that consists of a certain number of revolutions. You are going the same distance as before, but using fewer of those revolutions to get there.

4.) Longer accessory life – your water pump, alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, and smog pump (if equipped) are all turning at a lower RPM and should last longer.

5) Less cabin noise – an engine turning at a lower RPM will be quieter, making the trip less stressful. It is easier to have a conversation, and you can actually hear the radio!

There are a few minor trade-offs, though. The engine will have less power for passing and going up hills when the transmission is in high gear, so downshifting will be necessary at times. Most overdrive transmissions are slightly heavier than their non-overdrive counterparts, too, but this difference is negligible in most cases.

All in all, overdrive transmissions have been one of the biggest improvements to be made to domestic cars in the last thirty years. They have made a larger difference in highway fuel economy than fuel injection and computerized engine controls. There are a number of companies such as Keisler Engineering that have made a good business out of providing overdrives to retrofit into classic musclecars and street rods! Given the advantages of overdrive transmissions, my biggest question is why the automakers didn’t offer them sooner!

As far as coronavirus transmission is concerned, many myths have been circulating across the internet. In this article, we are going to take a look at some of the most common myths about the covid-19. So what you need to do is be informed and understand the difference between facts and fiction. After all, misinforming people can result in dire consequences. Without further ado, let’s bunk 5 the most common myths about the covid-19. Read on to find out more.

1. Wearing a face mask can protect you from the virus

This is wrong. If you put on a regular paper surgical mask, it will offer no protection against covid-19. The reason is that most of these masks cannot block tiny microscopic particles of different types of viruses.

Therefore, buying a regular face mask will not protect you against the infection. You need to invest in a higher-quality mask that is designed for blocking viruses.

2. You are more likely to catch flue than coronavirus

This is another misconception. According to some people, since coronavirus spreads because of close contact, most people won’t be likely to get infected if they maintain some distance while talking to others.

Although most people think that covid-19 is not much different from the regular cold, the reality is the other way around. According to experts, covid-19 much more infections than the flu.

3. Pet animals can spread COVID-19

According to a report released by China, one of the dogs they tested for the virus was presumed to be “weak positive”. However, experts are not sure whether the animal was actually infected. They also assume that the dog was carrying the virus on his nose surface because of roaming around the environment where people were carrying the virus.

4. Parcels coming from China are infected

This is another misconception. This type of myth can cause a lot of social harm. Although China was the origin of COVID-19, it does not mean products coming from China are infected.

5. Regular hand dryers can eliminate COVID-19

If you doubt that your hands have the coronavirus on them, you cannot kill the virus by drying your hands using a good hand dryer. As a matter of fact, if you want your home environment to remain free of all types of infection, you need to try other methods instead of depending on a hand dryer.

For instance, you can install a good air purifier in each of your rooms for purifying your indoor air. These units are designed to catch microscopic droplets and particles of different types of viruses. Therefore, you will be less likely to catch the virus.

In short, these are just some of the common myths about covid-19. If you want to say stay protected against the virus, we suggest that you avoid spreading misinformation and follow all the expert tips to be on the safe side.

The problem with a vertical engine is routing the power from the engine to a horizontal wheels on the go kart. Typically the standard method for transferring the power on vehicles involves a gear box. For example on a lawn tractor the gearbox is designed with a pulley on the top of the gear box. Additionally, because the main purpose of a riding lawnmower is to cut grass, so the vertical engine layout works very well driving a mower deck.

The temptation comes in to play to use the gear box in the gokart and keep the unit simple that way. Unfortunately, it is not really simpler, but more complex, not to mention unreliable.

Additionally, I would strongly steer you away from using a riding lawnmower gearbox for the following reasons:

– Width Of The Rear Axel System Is Too Narrow

– Gear Boxes Are Not Designed For High Speed As In 20+ Mph.

– Gear Box Engagement Requires Belt Tensioning Devices.

– Switching Gears On The Fly Is Not Possible Without Good Engine/Gearbox Knowledge.

Width of the rear axel system is too narrow. The width of a gokart drive wheel layout should be relatively speaking wide: 36″+. Riding lawnmowers are under that width and will pose a difficulty in powering the rear wheels. Mounting the gearbox is another issue that requires special bracketry that would need to be fabricated and mounted to the framework.

Gear boxes are not designed for high speed as in 20+ mph. This is a serious consideration, especially with gear boxes that do not require lubrication and do not have roller bearings.

Gear Box Engagement requires belt tensioning devices. Typically, the gearbox is activated by tensioning the belt.

Switching gears on the fly is not possible without good engine/gearbox knowledge. The gearbox on a riding lawnmower does not have synchronizers with it, so the gearbox must be completely idle or still for the gears to be switched.

Actually, in order to get gears to mesh properly, both the mating gears must be in the same position. This can be accomplished by running the gears at the same speed, but this does take some understanding of how a gear box operates. Unskilled drivers will have extreme difficulty getting the gearbox to work. More than likely, the gear box will be destroyed in a relatively short period of time, if shifting is considered on the fly.

Conclusion…

Bottom line is that the transaxle is designed for tractor use and has some limitations. There are some better options that are lighter and more user friendly.

Next time other vertical engine drive systems.

There are many types of auto lubricants and choosing the right one can help you make sure that the parts of your car aren’t destroyed. You want to do your research and choose the right lubricant company in order to find the right option.

Motor Oil

Motor oil is a very common type of automotive oil used. Vehicle manufacturers recommend that you replace motor oil every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. There are certain additives used that help prevents any breakdown and corrosion of parts. There are also different types of viscosity, which is the thickness of the oil. Small numbers indicate the oil is thinner, which makes it easier to flow. It’s recommended that when changing out the oil you choose multi-grade oil so that it can keep the viscosity rating when the oil is at different temperatures. There are plenty of lube oil suppliers to choose from, so make sure you are choosing the right one for your vehicle.

Gear Oil

This oil is typically used in the manual transmission, and when high-temperature lubricant is needed. This type of oil has a smell that is noticeable so you can detect a leak.

Transmission Fluid

This type of fluid can help prevent many problems. It will help lubricate the parts in the transmission and helps cool off the transmission to prevent corrosion of the engine. You should check transmission fluid with the vehicle on and with the car on a surface that is flat and level. There is a bright color to help detect leaks. You can check the transmission fluid using the dipstick that is found near the back of the engine compartment.

Wheel Bearing and Chassis Grease

This is the common automotive grease that is used and probably the most recognizable. It can be found in suspension and steering joints. This grease is needed to prevent too much wear on the suspension. In order to properly lubricate the suspension, you can find this grease in a tube that can be added to a grease gun. This grease gun will then be attached to the grease fittings, and the grease fittings on are the areas that need lubrication. This grease should not be used on vehicles with disc brakes because it is not high-temperature grease.

High-Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease

Use this type for areas that have high temperatures. This is the type of grease you should use with disc brakes. This grease will contain an additive that helps it remain slippery, even as the grease is dried.

White Grease

This grease is used for metal applications where water could be an issue. Water can’t wash away this grease and it can’t be diluted, which makes it good to use for high-temperature areas.

Electronic Grease

Also called heat sink grease, this grease doesn’t conduct electricity so it’s used on electronic connections.

Penetration Lubricants

This lube oil helps to loosen rusted and corroded bolts and nuts and can be found in an aerosol can. It should be soaked in after application. Once it is soaked in, the treads should be clean and then it should be reapplied in order to get the bolts and nuts free.

Graphite

This should be used to help lubricate any parts that shouldn’t be exposed to oils. A common place where this should be used is indoor locks.

It’s important to listen to the automotive oil manufacturers recommendations on what lubricants should be used and where. It’s important to choose the type and grade of lubricant that is needed. The brand doesn’t matter, but there are some good brands to consider, which include Shield Lubricants and Kuwait Oil.

Vehicle problems are a worrisome thing. Especially transmission problems.

Here is how to end these 5 common problems

1. Slow shift when cold.
2. Hang-up from one gear to the next.
3. Rough shift or hard shift.
4. Fluid leaks.
5. Converter lock-up shudder at around 40 MPH..

Transmission shifting problems require an overhaul – if cleaning the valve body – the shift control parts, cannot be cleaned. While most transmission shops push you into the $3000 plus overhaul idea, it is because just cleaning your dirty transmission shift valves is a 2 hour money loser for the shop.

Overhaul has 75 % profit of around $2000. Labor for just valve cleaning with a fluid change produces $75 profit. Got that?

The chemical cleaning of your dirty valve shift valves – the method I promote – and I’m a mechanic, always ends rough shifts, shift hang ups, that transmission converter 45 mph lockup clunk, and restores smooth shifting. And cost about $100 to $150, not $2000. And you can do it yourself with my walk-through steps below.

I’ll walk you through the steps. Nothing needs to be taken apart, so relax on that point, too.

This is what research shows about rough shift problems.

It shows that friction drag, wear roughen surfaces, acids, high temperatures, and the resulting sludge residues are the common causes of transmission problems.

How Mega Power, a vehicle engine transmission additive treatment maker, solves your problem.

Four new products, from Mega Power combine to work as a problem solving treatment to end those 5 transmission problems.

The Mega Power Transmission Treatment contains, not just one ingredient like all other additives have, instead Mega Power has 4 of them. One ingredient to cover each of these rough shift causing conditions. One to end friction drag and smooth wear roughen gear and bearing surfaces. One to remove problems causing residues on your valve body to free and clean them, and neutralize acids. And a co-polymer for super lubrication, and to end excessively high temperatures. These ingredients condition the many seals to stop leaks. That is what you get for $100 to $150 instead of $3000 to end your worry, save lots of cash expense, while restoring transmission dependability again.

Products needed come in a kit called Mega Power Transmission Service Kit RS3. Here are directions for installation.

Step 1-Add Mega Power Transmission Cleaner TS-1 to the dirty transmission fluid. Drive to your local lube guy, to have him drain and replace the dirty fluid with new. Or do it yourself.

The TS-1 product free and clean sticky valve controls and removes harmful, sticky valve covered residues when the old fluid is removed. Those harmful residues bind gears and clutch movement, cause rough shifting, and hard shifts.

Step 2- After the new fluid in installed, add the Mega Power Transmission Fluid Conditioner #3, and Metal Conditioners #T to the new fluid.

TS-2 T and TS-3 products conditions the many harden and skrunken seals and gaskets that leak fluid, causing a lower hydraulic action, and slow shift problems. This ends slow shift, and leak problems in this way.

Mega Power #T and #3 Products correct one other cause of rough-shift, hard-shift, hang-up, and converter lock-up shutter. They do so by a surface smoothing with their MC+ metal conditioner. This advantage ends shift and hang ups caused by friction drag. These two products perform the friction reducing and surface restoring, and also beef-up the tensile strength of the fluid. This “fluid and metal conditioning” is needed as wear develops, and thicker fluid is needed to keep shifting working well again.

Step 3- For Slipping transmission problems.

To end slipping – you also add Mega Power #10 Oil Conditioner – along with the #T and #3 above to the new fluid. This product fills worn spaces and adds a thickener to help pump up the hydraulic pressures needed – close the clutches tighter, ending this cause of slipping.

Conclusion: This is the least expensive way I know of to correct 5 common transmission problems.

Results are almost immediate and permanent. Way less costly compared to actual overhaul. Although a few transmission shops use Mega Power, it’s seldom promoted.

Mega Power products have a very high success rate. Mega Power comes with a 90 day money-back guarantee – should your transmission require actual repair.

This remedy is worth a try to determine if it will work for your car or truck… george

If there’s one thing International Sport Motors of San Francisco has encountered over the years, it’s problems with Volkswagen’s automatic transmissions. The reason Volkswagen’s ‘lifetime’ automatic transmission fluid system sounds too good to be true is because it is. Although the modern synthetic fluid protects better and lasts longer than competing oils, it will not last forever. In fact, legally, the term ‘lifetime fluid’ refers only to the duration of the VW Powertrain Warranty. So when the warranty expires, you’re out of luck.

Volkswagen, along with many other auto-manufacturers, knows that most owners don’t keep their vehicles past 100,000 miles. The so-called ‘lifetime’ fluid is simply a marketing twist used to help sell cars that require ‘minimal maintenance.’ But after the 100,000 mile mark (when vehicles need real attention) most Volkswagen repair guarantees are null and void. That’s why VW schedules a 105,000 mile timing belt change on 1.8T engines, and why most ‘lifetime’ guarantees are bogus.

If you intend to keep your car for a while, the cost of never-replaced ATF will terrify you. Left untouched for an entire ‘lifetime’ this fluid can cause serious damage to your filter and oil pans. Deposits of metallic shavings will build up on your filter and oil pan, and ultimately damage the transmission. The resultant repairs will be costly. So do yourself a favor. If you plan to keep your car around to see 150,000 or 200,000 miles, change your ATF yourself on a regular basis.

Although this task can be complicated, it’s well worth the effort. Visit your local VW-Audi auto parts retailer (GermanAutoParts and ECStuning, among others) and purchase a VW-specific oil and filter kit. For both the 01M automatic transmission and the MK4, get the filter kit and ATF Pentosin G-052-162-A2. Do the same with manual transmission oil, and your car will keep running well into old age.

By the way, don’t bother asking Volkswagen Service writers about these ‘lifetime’ loopholes. They’ll insist that products like the ATF are ‘sealed with lifetime’ but that is only by corporate mandate. If you really want to keep your Volkswagen running smoothly, follow the advice above. Or, if you want to get the longest life and best performance out of your Volkswagen, do it yourself, or contact a Volkswagen repair shop that is willing to perform these kinds of preventative maintenance services for you. It’s far more cost effective than replacing your entire transmission.