Migra! A History Of The U.S. Border Patrol by Kelly Lytle Hernandez

University of California Press, April 15, 2010

What could be a more contentious issue today than the conflict surrounding our border with Mexico?

Some would argue that the history of the border patrol is irrelevant to our problems today, but they would be wrong. Everything about the 2000 miles that connects us with Mexico–including the establishment of the United States Border Patrol — is critical in resolving the problems of human trafficking, cross border violence and drug smuggling. Ignoring the past will surely doom us if we don’t learn from it.

Kelly Lytle Hernandez’s in-depth study, “Migra: A History of the U.S. Border Patrol” is a thoroughly researched account of the discordant beginnings to what became ultimately the official U.S. Border Patrol.

After the US-Mexico War of 1846-48 when the U.S. declared victory and forced Mexico to cede 50 percent of its northern territory to the U.S., a new border was drawn. The Rio Grande River bisected the border between the Gulf of Mexico and El Paso, Texas. From there the border traversed west across the deserts and mountains to the Pacific Ocean.

Claiming this land ignited the contentious relationship and resentment between Mexico and the U.S. In what appeared as vast dry wasteland was in fact fertile soil under which thousands of years before was covered by water from the Colorado River before it dried up.

When funding produced projects that would re-irrigate the arid soil, early settlers began farming the land producing millions of acres of crops. It became quickly apparent that large numbers of workers were needed to harvest the yield.

And so what began as a favorable outgrowth of the rich southwestern soil turned into a violent wave of anti migrant and immigrant legislation.

The rapid expansion of early agribusiness brought increasing numbers of migrant workers. Landowners, eager to profit from the agricultural boom, had access to various sources of labor. They hired California Indians and Chinese immigrants to fill the task. However few American Indians survived the 1880’s genocidal campaign against them and the landowners became dependent on Chinese labor.

Ultimately the large immigration of Chinese labor along the U.S.-Mexico borderlands threatened to take over much of the agribusiness and this brought about the first immigration law, “Anti-Coolie Act of 1862.”

From these adverse beginnings Congress dispatched Immigration Acts for the next several decades prohibiting “lunatics, idiots, convicts, polygamists, epileptics, anarchists, beggars, imbeciles and feeble-minded persons.”

New guidelines on who was prohibited from entering the United States now included all Asians, illiterates, prostitutes, criminals, contract laborers, unaccompanied children paupers, the diseased and defective, alcoholics and, beggars.

Hernandez delivers a meticulous account of the immigration restrictions and the affect it had on the people who lived on the U.S. – Mexico border. She chronicles a disturbing tale of the violent origins of the U.S. Border Patrol that began when an early colonist to the region, John Jackson Tumlinson, proposed the establishment of a roving patrol after several settlers disappeared and then found dead.

A sentinel for peace and safety of the colonists evolved into “A Sanctuary of Violence” as Hernandez aptly chronicle’s in her chapter about the tragic journey of the Border Patrol killing Mexicans by proxy. In her example of this regrettable circumstance, Hernandez tells the story of two brothers, Jack and Jim Cottingham from Brownsville, Texas, were farmers before becoming local peace officers. A few years later the brothers joined the newly formed U.S. Customs Mounted Guard that eventually became part of the Immigration Service Mountain Guard. Little training was required and no one outside of the borderlands observed what went on inside local Border Patrols outposts.

Out on patrol one evening Jim was shot and was critically wounded by a Mexican liquor smuggler. As Jim lay in the hospital, Jack drove back to where the shooting took place. He shot and killed every person he could see on the Mexican side of the border as revenge for his wounded brother.

Migra is a scholarly work rich in detail covering the rough beginnings and insurmountable problems the government is faced with securing our border with Mexico.

However, Hernandez is obviously and openly critical of the U.S. Border Patrol’s official history that she says leaves out critical “social and political dimensions that shaped U.S. immigration law.” Her assessment of the Border Patrol’s violence is underscored by many examples of agents who freely used violence as a method of enforcement protected by the lack of oversight and a climate of vigilantism. She is also unforgiving, and this time rightly so, of the racism that grew unchecked for years and resulted in rampant abuse and unrestrained massacres of innocent people.

The complications of finding a solution for illegal immigration are tied directly to our ability to manage the border between the U.S. and Mexico. Hernandez offers well documented accounts and analysis that bring considerable value to obtaining a resolution to the problem.

Merida is the capital of the Yucatán state in Mexico. Home to a nearly million people, the city enjoys an average temperature of ninety-one degrees Fahrenheit. It is slightly warmer than cities located directly on the coast of the Yucatán peninsula, such as Progreso. Besides being the cultural center of the Yucatan, here are some other facts you should know about Merida:

Arriving in the City

Getting to Merida is generally not a problem considering it has an international airport within its city limits. Manuel Crescencio Rejón International Airport provides service to a number of the larger Mexican cities as well as flights to international destinations including Miami and Huston in the United States. There are buses that are available to take you from a number of cities in Mexico to Merida.

Once in Merida getting around is easy. There is a bus service within the city that is provided by four different service lines. The overall quality of service is comparable to the bus service in Guadalajara and other major Mexican cities, with many buses having climate control. Some of the buses, like the Uno, are luxurious buses with only 19, fully reclining, seats, individual Video monitors, blankets and pillows and, of course, a bathroom.

Taxi service is readily available in Merida and is operating 24/7. There is no train transit within Merida, but with buses, taxis and rental cars you will usually have no problem getting to the Gulf of Mexico (approx. 30 miles). Surprise! Expect to pay less than a third of the price you would normally pay in the USA when using a bus or a taxi. Tipping the taxi driver is always appreciated, but not a must.

The Unique Language

The Yucatán is markedly different from much of Mexico. Among the things you won’t want to miss in Merida is the language. The accent specifically is noticeably different from the rest of Mexico to nearly everyone that visits the area. In addition to the difference in the Spanish that is spoken, Mayan is still considered the second language of the Yucatán state. Approximately one third of the population still speaks the Yucatecan Mayan language. With the language you can also experience a culture that is singular to the area. The resilient Mayan culture is evident in the dress, on the faces of the people and, of course, upon hearing the Mayan language spoken.

Dining Pleasures

If you enjoy food and unique cuisine, then you won’t want to miss the food while in Merida. As the Yucatán culture developed independently as a result of its geographic separation from the mainland so did its cuisine. You will find dishes with Mayan influence, Mexican influence and some with European and Spanish influence.

The History

The one thing you won’t want to miss in Merida is the Centro Historico, or the Historic Center. It is the largest and basically the most visited of all the colonies in Merida. It is one of the largest in any city and displays colonial style structures from the 18th and 19th century. Some structures from the 1500s can also be seen in the city. You will also find many quality museums and galleries that display the rich cultural past, as well as contemporary art, of Merida, the Yucatan and Mexico.

Sand, sun, art, great food, language and culture are all waiting to be experienced in the capitol of the Yucatán state. The things you won’t want to miss in Merida are likely to continue increasing when you come to visit and as you continue to learn about the Yucatán Peninsula and Merida specifically.

Stephanie Wood begins Transcending Conquest with a twelve-page foreword in which she describes not only her methodology and source base, but also her motivations for pursuing this project. Perhaps as a preemptive defense-she notes that some might dismiss her as “lacking sufficient authority” to approach the Nahuatl codices as an American English-speaker-Wood spends a great deal of her introduction describing childhood experiences with Mexican migrant workers before turning her attention to more technical matters (ix). This decidedly informal introduction seems oddly folksy, and almost jarring, when the reader moves from those pages into Wood’s explanation of her methodology and the intended purpose of her research. She largely confines secondary sources and historiographical information to this preface and to her end notes; there is little context given about the conquest itself, except when relevant to a specific scene or figure.

Transcending Conquest comprises six chapters, each moving forward in time to a specific chronological point when a particular type of codex or manuscript was most likely composed and was most prevalent. She includes multiple examples of each source type, and weaves illustrations throughout the text rather than confining them to an insert somewhere near the book’s middle. Thus, in the chapter describing codices written closest to the actual date of the conquest, a pictograph of a Spaniard battling an indigenous warrior appears just before Wood’s analysis of that pictograph. As she states in her preface, Wood looks beyond the more obvious aspects of indigenous portrayals of Spaniards to note that these portrayals frequently belie the traditional assumption that the Aztecs and other indigenous groups regarded the Spanish as gods returned from the heavens.

Wood explicitly states that she intends to write not a monolithic treatise on indigenous views of the Spanish conquest and colonial period, but rather a series of chapters that function as thematically related essays drawing from a common indigenous source base. Perhaps appropriately given the gradual introduction of alphabetic writing to Nahua “author-artists,” Wood employs only pictorial sources in her initial chapters, incorporating manuscripts and other textual sources as the book progresses from the conquest period to the colonial (23). Her selected pictographs and scenes come from codices in archives located in both the Americas and France.

Wood closely reads her chosen sources-she argues that pictographs can indeed be read, since they largely serve the same function as alphabetic texts-for clues and insights perhaps overlooked by others who might have dismissed or downplayed the importance of pictorial evidence, given the common European preference for word-based materials. She does not categorically exclude textual sources, but in the chapter dealing with títulos, written documents detailing a town’s rights to claim certain allotments of land, Wood appears slightly less confident than in those about codices and mapas, documents combining textual and pictographic elements to relate local histories and genealogies.

Transcending Conquest is perhaps a bit brief, with only 162 pages of text, including the preface; Wood’s notes and bibliography are quite hefty by comparison, taking up fifty-three additional pages. In spite of her stated initial trepidation, Wood succeeds with her argument that there are further clues to be found in indigenous codices and manuscripts, even for those inherently outside the discursive framework of indigeneity.

Mazatlan Mexico has always been a terrific and popular vacation destination. Since the 1930's American and Canadian vacationers have been following the jet setters of Hollywood south to the warm beaches and slow paced lifestyle of the Mazatlan people.

This city has become the second home to many for many reasons. Many have fallen in love with the climate. Others have fallen in love with the Mexican culture. But most visitors to Mazatlan fall in love with this beauty of a vacation destination due to the fact that it is hard to vacation here and not have fun!

Mazatlan has a great deal to offer vacationers as it is suited as a vacation destination for couples, honeymooners and families alike. There is something to build memories on for everyone

The vacation accommodations in Mazatlan are world class by all standards. Americans, Canadians and European visitors alike find the resorts, hotels and vacation rentals to be world class. As well you will find the hotels and resorts to be very economical in comparison to many other vacation spots

The restaurants and food will redefine your idea of ​​Mexican food! Mazatlan is reputed to have the finest cuisine in all of Mexico. Mazatlan is the shrimp capitol of the world and every night in season you will see the shrimp boats out among the islands fishing as they have been doing for generations. The seafood in this idyllic city is superb. Dorado, Sea Bass and Tuna are offered in the typical Mexican style, with flair and pizazz. Believe this writer when I say Mazatlan will reinvent Mexican food in your mind's eye.

The activities are to die for. There truly is something for everyone. The sport fishing is terrific. Dorado, Tuna, Roosterfish, Sea Bass and numerous other species of fish are for the taking in the beautiful offshore waters in Mazatlan.

Mazatlan has several golf courses located near the American communities of El Cid Resort. They have all been designed by gold legends. You cannot beat golf in the terrific weather that Mazatlan is known for.

As well you will find that Mazatlan offers Para Sailing, Banana Boat Rides, Surfing, Jet Ski and ATV rides and tours as well. The beaches stretch for miles and are as pristine as you will ever find on earth. Stone Island is a favorite place to get out of the tourist area and explore. On Stone Island you will find several activity operators and several restaurants. The beaches are simply heaven to behold.

When contemplating your next vacation Mazatlan should be on your list to explore and consider. It does have something for everyone. Enjoy your Mazatlan Mexico Vacation . Viva La Mazatlan!

How can something be safe and sanitary if it has been around for nearly 4.543 billion years? That’s how long ago Earth was created and the waters we are swimming in today have been around. Water is a major factor to our world and the quality of it is steadily decreasing. Pollution has gotten worse than it has ever been. Oil spills, trash, bacteria, all are taking over the bodies of water and affecting the living organisms causing severe damage to the environment. Media relations broadcast what they want us to know, not everything we typically need to know is shown. If the media showed the harsh truth, business would be out on the hunt for them and the economy would go down the drain quickly; especially with us living in a big tourist city!

A huge factor is when the body of water closest to us, The Gulf of Mexico, was severely polluted on April 20, 2010. A massive oil rig exploded releasing 210 million gallons of oil into the waters over the duration of 87 days until they finally could cap the well head. A variety of techniques were used to address fundamental strategies for addressing the spilled oil, which were: to contain oil on the surface, dispersal, and removal. In summer 2010, approximately 47,000 people and 7,000 vessels were involved in the response works. Now six years later, CNN reports “Scientists continue to study environmental impacts, but five years after the spill, the long-term negative effects remain unclear and are, in many cases, highly disputed. BP, the company that caused the spill, is eager to point out it appears the Gulf of Mexico is healing itself.” Media reports what they’re told to report, simply because our Government and local officials have not told you the truth about the oil spill. I got the chance to speak to a guy, Jeff Lawrence, who is a total conservative and was the only media that was allowed to be imbedded in all the daily operations of the oil spill by the CEO of the oil giant. He had access to people and information that everyone else did not. He went completely undercover while working alongside the company to find out the factual information we all needed to know, but would not get told. He said BP did try and clean it up but used toxins that actually did nothing but make the matter worse. It appeared to everyone that the oil was being cleaned up and removed, from what people could see washing up on shore. What you can’t see is the thousands of miles of tar that line the floors of the gulf that affect every organism in the water. People are unaware of how unsafe it really is.

Health officials in Florida are warning people heading to Gulf waters to be careful of a form of flesh-eating bacteria that can be deadly. Most of us don’t know much about chemical exposure, nor does the media who are liberals in this case. They tell everyone it’s safe to not worry the matter is being handled. They write what they interview, they don’t do the research scientists do to know the true facts. You see news stories about people dying or hospitalized due to bacteria pretty regularly, at least what they want to broadcast. They all have one common thing in their lifestyles, they came in contact with the dispersants and other toxic chemicals while in the waters or on the beaches. So where do you think all of that dispersant went when scientists say it’s cleaned up? It’s on the bottom of the gulf with the oil and laced in the sands on our beaches, waiting to be absorbed by human skin. The only people that are trying to convince people that there is no problem are those that are trying to protect their businesses or their property values. That is why we are left with this problem today, people think their property is more important than someone’s health! People have been in meetings with Government, State, University professors and scientists, DEP, EPA, marine biologists, toxicologists and the list goes on. When asking them if it was safe to swim in the Gulf of Mexico waters, not one of them would say they felt it was safe to swim in the water around the tar mats, in fact they said they would not! And these people are all being funded with $500 million by companies to do their research.

Recently close to home in Navarre Beach, a mutated cobia was caught. Cobia migrate from South Florida and typically start showing up around mid-March, when the water temperatures start reaching the mid-sixties. The bite improves once April arrives and as the water temperature rises into the seventies. The cobia had what looked like the bottom of a shoe along the bottom of the fish where the gills are. Scientists come to believe the mutation was from the oil spill toxins when the fish migrate through the polluted waters on their journey to the panhandle. Not only in the south are our animals being harmed. Whales washed ashore the North Sea and were later cut open for examination and found hundreds of bags in their stomachs. Fishermen and tourists are so quick to let a piece of littler float out in the ocean and not pick it up. Tens of thousands of people visit the beaches each month, one piece of trash leads to another accumulating and take over the ocean. It’s easy to forget there are animals living and hunting for food in the seas and cannot easily tell a piece of trash from prey. Trash build up in these animals body can lead to the intestines shutting down because simply they cannot process what they intake and causing death. Many thousands of sea life are compromised or killed by the pollution we allow to escape into the ocean. If the media was to post exactly how much trash is in our ocean, or how many deaths are caused because of it, tourists will no longer want to visit.

What is it about Sayulita on the Riviera Nayarit in Mexico that keeps drawing us back? Located just north of Puerto Vallarta it’s a world removed from the “typical” tourist destination.

Is it because it’s a sleepy little fishing village with a laid back, surfer vibe that caters to our inner child of just being free to explore the ocean, the beach, and the Mexican culture of years gone by?

Is it that it’s a village that defies the temptation of becoming overly commercialized which in turn would destroy the warmth and charm of a hidden gem?

Is it the sandy beachfront with a long, gentle surf break with warm, clear water?

We believe it is all of the above and the “Sayulita Good Vibes” is really a state of mind that all visitors experience… and we are continually drawn back.

Establish a Base Camp

This article focuses on eating… plain and simple… since most everything you eat here is fresh, locally sourced, and reasonably priced.

Sayulita is an epicurean delight with exceptional dining options from “street food” to full gourmet restaurants.

We usually select the road-less-traveled and find vacation rentals that boast a well-equipped chef’s kitchen.

Once again Sayulita Life (sayulitalife.com) becomes the go-to site. They represent over 400 vacation rental options and we usually find the “perfect” place.

We love to cook and on this trip we lured two other couples with like minds to join us. Looking for a place for three couples to share brings the price point for the more expensive properties into a much more reasonable price range, too.

A Cornucopia of Fresh Ingredients

Sayulita and other surrounding villages have organized and scheduled many fresh air farmers markets that stress organic options, offering local fruits and vegetables.

One of our favorite markets was a short drive south of Sayulita in the La Cruz Marina Fish Market on Banderas Bay where you can purchase freshly caught fish, shrimp, lobsters, oysters and other assorted seafood all for great prices.

Fish markets have been a staple in Banderas Bay for generations, in fact many of the restaurants, personal chefs and caterers in the area shop here daily for their seafood.

In addition, the Sunday market features handmade items by locals as well as from the indigenous tribes in the area… each vendor can only sell what they personally made… now that is local pride.

Eating IN… The Personal Chef Option

For a special treat we hired three professional chefs on three different evenings to share their talent and treat us to their regional cooking from their respective heritages.

Justifying the decision to hire a personal chef for three couples that love to cook themselves was not difficult considering the alternatives.

Imagine if you will dining in the comfort of your vacation rental, and the only thing you have to do is to enjoy the cooking demonstration (if you want to), savor a refreshing beverage and anticipate the fabulous cuisine being made expressly for you and your taste preferences.

There is no shopping for the ingredients, no prepping, no plating, and best of all… no cleaning up. Everything takes place like magic… and for less than the cost of a similar meal at an outside restaurant.

You owe it to yourself to try it at least once for a special date or event and besides you are all on vacation… so create a memory!

The following are three unique chefs with their own style and specialties… all waiting for your call.

Chef Laura

We were introduced to Laura as our housekeeper at “Villa Sol Blau” and were told she is an excellent cook having prepared meals for numerous guests.

What we discovered is that Laura uses family recipes matched with local fresh ingredients and treats her dining patrons like “family” as she lavishes the warmth and grace of her heritage… we enjoyed a traditional meal and Laura’s charming personality… “Mom” was in the kitchen!

Laura prepared an authentic regional meal consisting of Green Chile Enchiladas and traditional slow cooked black beans followed with Chile Relleno with a poblano sauce and Mexican rice all based on a family recipe. Her Flan dessert was of course homemade and was delicate as well as creamy.

Chef Sofia Silva Sanchez

We “found” Chef Sofia on the Sayulita Life site and she also has her own webpage (sayulitachef.com). After reading the glowing reviews as well as her extensive menu options we made a date for dinner.

Sofia is a vibrant, effervescent, and a very personable individual and as a chef her wide range of cooking skills extend from traditional Mexican cuisine to menus offering Italian, Indian, Moroccan, Vegetarian and Vegan options.

Her excellent dessert reputation is definitely understated!

The meal began with Cucumber cups stuffed with Shrimp Ceviche, followed by an

salad of organic greens topped with chipotle dressing. The main entree consisted of tender pieces of baked chicken in a poblano sauce with Mexican rice and her dessert was homemade Key Lime Pie topped with strawberries and mint.

Chef Daniel Murillo

Chef Daniel is the consummate professional and performs his cooking with a flair… literally he lights up the room! Can you say… Flambe!

Daniel owns the restaurant “Mexotix” in the neighboring town of San Pancho which is a short drive north of Sayulita. He offers his catering and cooking services in Sayulita and we have enjoyed his exceptional “Mexican-Fusion with an Asian Twist” style on numerous occasions. (sayulitalife.com/mexotik)

Chef Daniel works with his Sous Chef Juan to create amazing food. He started with Seared Tuna with sesame crust served over tostini with cucumber noodles & alfalfa sprouts dressed with balsamic reduction.

Followed with handmade from scratch Empanadas stuffed with shrimp sautéed in citrus Mexican salsa & melted panela cheese.

With a bit of flash and fire Daniel sauteed an Octopus in orange reduction with hibiscus & chipotle served with grilled veggies & coconut rice… tender and delicious.

Eating IN… Prepare a Dining Experience Yourself

The three couples set up a friendly competition and over the course of three nights it was game-on! But our first stop was a trip to La Cruz Fish Market followed by visiting a variety of in-town markets and one more stop at the excellent fish market just over the bridge into town.

We started with the Team Challenge: Jumbo Blue Shrimp cooked three ways.

One Team prepared Seared Mahi-Mahi with organic greens and avocados.

One Team grilled two very large Spiny Lobsters with a lot of melted butter on the side.

One Team grilled two Sushi Grade Yellow Tail Tuna Steaks about two pounds each.

We all showed off our cooking skills, sampled exceptional wines from Chile and Mexico, and most of all enjoyed the experience.

Summary

Creating cuisine in a village with a cadre of personal chefs, fresh seafood, organic farmers markets and local vendors offering all of the ingredients that you need to make unforgettable gastronomical experiences… all set in a semi-tropical locale… is simply very special.

The “Sayulita Good Vibes” is really a state of mind that all visitors experience… and we are continually drawn back!

Viva Mexico… Viva Sayulita!

After all, what is the hurry… be inspired…

© 2017 Inspired Travel Itineraries with Bob and Janice Kollar

A characteristic of growth in the global wine industry for some decades is slowly creeping into artisanal mezcal production in the southern Mexico state of Oaxaca. That is, small producers are using their new-found disposable income to educate their children, with a view to increasing manufacture in a sustainable fashion while at the same time improving sales through tapping new markets.

Oaxaca is where most of Mexico’s mezcal, the typically high alcohol content agave-based spirit, is distilled. In the early years of this decade the state began to witness a dramatic increase in sales of mezcal, both in the domestic market and for export to the US and further abroad. Mezcal tourism was born. Visitors began to make a pilgrimage to primarily the state capital and its central valley production regions, coming to learn about artisanal production, to sample and buy for home consumption, to educate themselves and their staff with a view to attracting sales at bars and mezcalerías, and to consider a business plan for export to foreign and to non-Oaxacan Mexican markets.

Lidia Hernández and Baneza García are representative of this sweeping new trend in Oaxacan mezcal production, not because they are young women (in their early twenties), but because of education. In both cases their parents, integrally involved in family artisanal distillation dating back generations, did not progress beyond primary school. Ms. Hernández has recently completed law school at the state run university and Ms. García is in third year industrial engineering at a private college. Both, however, work in the mezcal business and are using their education to advance the economic wellbeing of their respective families, and to preserve and improve the industry. And of course as is typical in virtually all families which produce artisanal mezcal, both began learning how to make the spirit at a very early age, literally upon taking their first steps.

The impetus for the meteoric growth in the industry occurred in the mid-1990s with the introduction of Mezcal de Maguey’s brilliant “single village mezcal” marketing, with other brands following suit (i.e. Pierde Almas, Alipus, Vago). Virtually all artisanal producers began experiencing a dramatic increase in sales. Initially the new-found wealth meant the ability to buy toys such as flat screen TVs, new pick-up trucks and the latest in computer technology. But then a curious phenomenon began to emerge in families, not only those with ready access to the export market, but those in which domestic sales had begun to skyrocket. More families began perceiving the value in higher education, creating opportunities both for their children and for their own advancement. Therefore they began to divert funds in this new direction.

To best understand the part these two women have already begun to play in the mezcal trade, we must step back several years to industry changes which began to impact the Hernández and García families, and of course many others. But before doing so we should note that lawyers don’t just learn the law, and industrial engineers don’t just learn how to design buildings and factories. Higher education impacts the ways in which we think more generally, how we process information, our spatial perception of the world, as well as about options for dealing with change and adaptation. But still the pedagogic strategies these women have been learning are rooted in their particular disciplines. And while palenqueros with a lack of formal education do not necessarily understand the intricacies, niceties and full impact of the foregoing, at least today in Oaxaca they do get it; that is, the broad though not fully digestible positive implications for the family of supporting higher education of their progeny.

If we accept that it takes an average of eight years to mature an Agave angustifolia Haw (espadín, the most common type of agave used to make mezcal) to the point at which it is best harvested to be transformed into mezcal, and that it was only about 2012 that producers, farmers and brand owners began to in earnest take notice of the “agave shortage” (more appropriately put as the dramatic increase in price of the succulent), then we are still a couple of years away from being inundated with an abundance of the agave sub specie ready to be harvested, baked, fermented and distilled. The phenomenon has been created by both businesses from the state of Jalisco sending tractor trailers to Oaxaca to buy up fields of espadín, and the mezcal boom. The latter has resulted in many palenqueros of modest means all of a sudden experiencing a dramatic increase in sales and corresponding extra income for the family, albeit now having to pay much more for raw material.

Communities are struggling with waterways above and below ground being chemically altered by distillation practices and wastewater, wild agave being stripped forever from landscapes, and several aspects of sustainability. At the same time regulatory stresses abound; from discussions with palenqueros and others in the industry, it is clear that the Consejo Regulador del Mezcal (the mezcal regulatory board, or CRM) is exerting pressure by “encouraging” palenqueros to become certified, and whether by design or not then adversely impacting those who do not comply by making it more difficult for them to eke out a living selling the distillate. The movement has been spearheaded by those who believe that uncertified agave spirit should not be termed “mezcal” nor sold and certainly not exported as such. It is of course trite to suggest that there are implications regarding taxation.

Lidia Hernández’s parents are in their early 50s. They have three children aside from Lidia, and all help in the family business; 30-year-old Valente lived in the US for a few years then returned home at the request of his mother and is now a full-time palenquero, 27-year-old Bety is a nurse who helps out with mezcal on her day off, and 16-year-old Nayeli is in high school in an education system known as COBAO, a hybrid between public and private to which many bright students in rural communities have access. While Lidia is writing her law school thesis she is working in the family palenque in Santiago Matatlán full time. After completing her dissertation she intends to continue on with mezcal until she believes that her expertise is no longer required on a continual basis. Even then, she will use her skills to advance the economic lot of the family.

Lidia attended public school. While initially she was interested in history and anthropology, because Oaxaca did not offer that program at the university level she opted for law. “I wanted to help people, to defend them because regular Oaxacans are really not very good problem solvers, at least when it comes to dealing with the law, police, family issues, business plans, and so on,” she explains. By age eight she had learned about and participated in virtually all steps in mezcal production. Early on she realized she could help grow the family business, using her new skills to help navigate through the rules and regulations in a changing mezcal industry. For in excess of the past year she has been:

• Helping her parents and brother with the paperwork required to become a palenque certified by CRM

• Charged with the process of coming up with an attractive brand name for the spirit the family has been distilling for generations, and working with a graphic designer regarding labelling and bottle style

• Assessing market trends in ABV and desirable nuances in agave species and sub-species

• Learning about taxation, transportation and export, and prerequisites for bottling on the premises

• Determining the best avenues for investing family funds in order to grow the business while at the same time exploring government assistance programs.

Lidia sums it up:

“Of course down the road once all is in order and the family business is certified and is running more efficiently and productively, and profitability is where we think it can be, I’ll get a job working as a lawyer, perhaps for government; but I’ll always be there for my family and continually strive to help produce high quality mezcals at market driven prices.”

Baneza García’s mother is 43. Her father died of alcohol related ailments three years ago at age 40. There are six children in the family ranging in age from 9 – 25. The two youngest are in primary and junior high and the next oldest attends high school at a COBAO. The eldest completed junior high and now works in the family tomato growing business. Baneza and a younger brother attend a private university just outside of the city, both studying industrial engineering. Baneza is in third year of a five year program. She and her brother rent an apartment close to school, but return home to the family homestead in San Pablo Güilá on weekends and for holidays. The extended family all helps out in the mezcal business which was started in 1914 by Baneza’s great grandfather. The family includes her aunt and uncle who are slowly assuming more responsibility, yet are still learning from Baneza’s grandfather Don Lencho.

The García family’s palenque became certified a few years ago, when an opportunity arose to sell mezcal which now reaches, of all places, China. More recently Baneza and family have been working with a different brand owner to produce mezcal which they are on the cusp of bottling and shipping to the US.

The Hernández and García families are in very different circumstances. Nevertheless, there is a common thread in the education of both Lidia and Baneza; utilizing the skills and opportunities to ultimately advance their respective family businesses.

Baneza is interested in both improving efficiency in her family’s mezcal production, and reducing adverse environmental impact of traditional practices. With regard to the former, although her family is still resistant to the idea, she is interested in giving more thought to replacing horsepower currently used to crush the baked sweet agave, with a motor on a track directly above the tahona, similar to that employed in other types of Mexican agave distillate production. The heavy limestone wheel and shallow stone/cement pit would remain thereby not altering flavor profiles, often the result when for example metal blades in an adapted wood chipper or on a conveyor belt are employed.

Regarding environmental impact, Baneza is working on ideas to transform otherwise waste product such as discarded agave leaves and the spent fiber produced at the conclusion of distillation, into commodities of utility. Both materials have traditionally found secondary and tertiary uses (i.e. the latter, that is the bagazo, being used as compost, as mulch, as a principal ingredient in fabricating adobe bricks, for making paper, and as the substratum for commercial mushroom production); but the bounds of ingenuity are endless, especially as learned in the course of a five year program in industrial engineering. The family has already adopted Baneza’s suggestion for recirculating water in the distillation process, rather than the more costly and typical (at least when water was not as scarce a commodity) practice of simply discarding it.

The application of Baneza’s classes in industrial psychology will have a long-term effect on how her family views its place in Oaxacan society:

“It’s a matter of convincing my family, through discussion, illustration and perhaps trial and error, that there are many ways to improve production which will ultimately lead to an easier and more self-fulfilling life for me and my relatives, and better sustain our industry.”

Lidia Hernández and Baneza García are not alone. They are representative of a much broader trend. Both young men and women who are children of palenqueros without higher education, exemplify change in the Oaxacan artisanal mezcal industry. I have spoken with students and graduates in business administration, tourism, linguistics, amongst other university programs, and their stories are similar: help the family artisanal mezcal business in Oaxaca. Then, down the road embark upon an independent career while maintaining an integral connection with the family’s spirit distillation.

The second decade of this century has borne witness to the birth of a new and directed form of Mexican travel; mezcal tourism. Spirits aficionados, entrepreneurs, photographers and documentary film makers, and students of the diversity of rich Mexican cultures, have been converging on primarily the southern state of Oaxaca. They come to buy, to learn and understand, to expose to the rest of the world, and in some cases to financially benefit from the back-breaking work of agave (maguey) growers, artisanal distillers (palenqueros), and their respective families. Of the nine states in Mexico which in 2018 have been legally able to call the agave spirit “mezcal,” Oaxaca is by far the poorest using any reasonable criteria. And so here in the state where Mexico’s native son, Benito Juaréz was born and raised, we have an obligation to ensure that mezcal tourism is ethical, responsible, sustainable, and respectful of both the environment and the lives of the people who eke out a modest living cultivating and harvesting agave, and distilling mezcal. But how do we accomplish such lofty goals while at the same time ensuring that those who bolster the Oaxacan economy are rewarded in their travel experiences?

Whether we move towards understanding mezcal pilgrimages to Oaxaca in terms of ethical, responsible, sustainable or environmentally friendly, or any combination of the foregoing tourism classifications, we need a starting point. Most of the more succinct definitions are subsumed in the World Travel Market’s adoption of the 2002 Cape Town Declaration of responsible tourism:

(1) minimizes negative economic, environmental and social impacts;

(2) generates greater economic benefits for local people and enhances the well-being of host communities, improves working conditions and access to the industry;

(3) involves local people in decisions that affect their lives and life changes;

(4) makes positive contributions to the conservation of natural and cultural heritage, to the maintenance of the world’s diversity;

(5) provides more enjoyable experiences for tourists through more meaningful connections with local people, and a greater understanding of local cultural, social and environmental issues;

(6) provides access for people with disabilities and the disadvantaged;

(7) is culturally sensitive, engenders respect between tourists and hosts, and builds local pride and confidence.

The key players in mezcal tourism are growers, distillers, communities, government, industry regulators, brand owners and representatives, and visitors to Oaxaca. Also included are the guides, drivers and others who purport to be able to effectively provide appropriate services to those arriving in Oaxaca for any one or more goals.

On virtually a weekly basis while leading mezcal excursions, almost everything I hear which has anything to do with ethical mezcal tourism is about the current “agave shortage,” a misnomer in and of itself simply because there is in fact enough maguey to go around. The issues are the dramatic increase in price per kilo over the past several years, and palenqueros and growers harvesting espadín which are smallish, years prior to when they should be harvested in order to produce the best mezcal with the optimum yield. As long as demand grows, tourism, in terms of those travelling to Oaxaca to buy for personal use or to advance an export project, is only to a limited extent able to address that issue within the context of industry sustainability.

Brand owners including palenqueros should not begrudge their growers, especially those in a subsistence lifestyle, of wanting to reap the benefit of the gravy train. They must recognize the cyclical nature of the industry; the decent income being derived from agave sales today, may evaporate in a few short years.

Similarly, visitors should not deny the distillers an opportunity to sell for a fair price. Some mezcal aficionado clients recognize that they are paying a fraction of what they would be paying back home; no middle men, no transportation costs, and often no taxation. Virtually none of this group of pilgrims try to bargain with the palenqueros, and in fact some insist on paying a little more. They see the standard of living of some of the families of palenqueros to which I take them to visit, and they have a conscience. Perhaps it is a function of the type of visitor who retains me, or that I typically tend to visit predominantly small mom and pop artisanal distilleries peppering the Oaxacan hinterland, or a combination of the two. Even if your discount buying mezcal directly from a small artisanal palenque only saves you 50% of what you would otherwise pay back home, who would you prefer to see profiting? The exporter? The distributors or retailers be they American, British, or even Mexican? Or the Oaxacan family which toils day in and day out?

Many tour operators believe that their customers are not prepared to pay more on their vacations to ensure that the residents of the host region get a better shake. Yet a survey by the Association of British Travel Agents found that two thirds of visitors to a foreign land who were on package tours would be prepared to pay an extra 10 to 25 pounds towards environmental or social improvements. A survey conducted by the aid agency Tearfund found that 59% of respondents were prepared to pay more for their holiday if it would ensure decent wages for locals and help protect the environment. This supports what I have found when leading mezcal excursions. Many travelers visiting Oaxaca for mezcal, “get it.”

A majority of palenqueros have no idea how much it costs them to produce a liter of mezcal. One company, Aventureros, works with a limited number of palenqueros with a view to assisting them in calculating actual cost of production. It tallies price paid for raw material and ultimate yield, adds up utility bills, places a value on the labor of family members who assist at various stages of production, and considers much more. A problem faced predominantly for those distillers with aspirations of selling larger quantities for export, however, is that there will always be a competitor willing to charge less, and so knowing one’s actual production costs is counterbalanced with finding a market for your mezcal. It’s the nature of capitalism, but at least there are those with a decent modicum of ethical business practices who adopt the Aventureros sense of morality. Many palenqueros determine their prices based on how much they need “to get by,” and no more. Consumers who are able to buy directly from the source have the ability, and arguably an obligation, to be fair. Yes, our western worldview isn’t necessarily the correct one, but at least consider doing something more, to right an injustice by your standards. That is a part of ethical tourism, regardless of whether or not it perhaps should be.

Concomitant with the foregoing is the nature of the export business, which relates to foreign brand owners, and to exporters who are Mexican nationals or otherwise. Some believe in fair trade, insist on paying an appropriate price, and/or returning a portion of profits to the family or the community. However there are others who try to squeeze their producers in order to secure as cheap a price as possible. Some in the former category make their business practices known, as a way of improving sales and/or simply illustrating that they are in part motivated by altruism. Gossip networks help us to learn about those at both ends of the continuum, and in between.

The extinction of wild species and sub-species of agave is to some extent being addressed. Some communities are dictating to their residents that for every wild agave harvested, two small ones must be planted. It appears that a lesson was learned by the near extinction of wild tobalá in the district of Sola de Vega, previously renowned for its excellent wild tobalá mezcal. The regulatory board CRM (Consejo Regulador del Mezcal) has recently begun enforcing promulgated rules precluding palenqueros who do not address the matter as noted above and register the lands from which they harvest, from producing certified mezcal for both export or domestic consumption. Of course there are issues with any regulatory agency, especially in Mexico, but this is a start. For me, the notion that mezcal produced from wild agave is better than that distilled from cultivated maguey, is part of the problem, and is patently false as a general proposition; one ought to consider more so teroir, specie and sub-specie, means of production and tool of the trade, palenqero skill and reputation, etc.. A mezcal distilled in copper from cultivated espadín can be “better” than a tobalá made from wild agave and distilled in clay. Buy what you like, and this modus operandi will go a long way towards sustainability.

Similarly there are brands which understand the potential for deforestation of the types of trees cut and used as firewood for fueling traditional ovens. Some are embarking upon reforestation programs, seeking volunteers to plant saplings during the rainy season. These environmentally conscious entrepreneurs are also encouraging volunteers for their agave planting programs.

It does not behoove me to tread where government goes. And indeed it can be skillfully argued that government does more than its fair share to promote the mezcal industry for the benefit of growers and distillers, and to address environmental concerns. But ethical mezcal tourism takes a different approach. Query, and no more:

• whether or not it is consistent with the tenets of responsible tourism to direct visitors to Oaxaca to only certified facilities, those built for tourists;

• whether or not it is consistent with the tenets of responsible tourism to preclude small scale palenqueros from calling their agave spirit “mezcal” given that the root of the word predates even the founding of the country we now call Mexico;

• whether or not it is consistent with the tenets of responsible tourism to pressure palenqueros to collect and pay tax when they barely scrape by when there are more viable and reasonable avenues for filling government coffers.

Yes of course the mezcal industry requires regulation to protect the consuming public, and those with the ability to pay tax should pay their fair share whatever that might be. But are there not means by which to accomplish such ends which are more consistent with the tenets of responsible, or ethical tourism? Since we may be stretching the bounds of the theme of this article, let’s just leave it at that.

In the short term visitors to Oaxaca wanting to research, learn, buy, and all the rest, cannot impact government or otherwise regulators viz. the mezcal industry, nor should any thought be given to attempting to do so. But they can redress imbalances by ensuring that they do everything reasonable and within their control to benefit townspeople who grow agave and make the spirit, and if not enhance then to at least protect the environment from adverse human impact.

The initial opportunity travelers to Oaxaca have to ensure their visit is consistent with their desire to be part of ethical mezcal tourism is in selecting their mezcal facilitator, be it a guide, driver, or fixer within the context of an objective to film or photograph. That individual should play a key role in ensuring that residents involved the agave growth or mezcal production business reap a reasonable benefit. It is his or her responsibility to help those in the industry who need assistance, while at the same time not do anything to reduce or inhibit sustainability; that is, benefiting people and the environment.

I’ve written about the responsibility of mezcal aficionados to do their due diligence in evaluating brands, representatives and others in the industry to ensure that their buying patterns are consistent with their attitudes towards social responsibility. True enough that theme is not directly related to mezcal tourism. However, typically those who enjoy agave spirits eventually find their way to Oaxaca. And so it is best to start considering these issues before venturing to the state for any reason relating to mezcal, whether to learn, buy, or advance a commercial project. Considering the implications, consequences and structure of a visit early on increases the likelihood of then acting in a matter consistent with ethical mezcal tourism.

When planning on moving to Mexico a primary concern should be healthcare. People who have moved to Mexico are very lucky since Mexico health care is generally very good, in most places, it is positively exceptional.

Many health care practitioners in Mexico receive at least part of their training in the United States and many American doctors have trained in Mexico, notably in Guadalajara.

Every mid-sized to large city in Mexico has at least one first-rate hospital and a big plus about health care in Mexico is that the costs are generally half or less than one might expect to pay in the U.S.

The same thing also applies for prescription drugs. Those prescription drugs that are manufactured in Mexico are about fifty percent less on the average, compared with similar drugs manufactured in the United States.

There are two options to consider for healthcare in Mexico: IMSS (Social Security) and Private.

IMSS

Thousands of U.S. retirees are moving to Mexico and taking advantage of IMSS – Mexican social security healthcare (Instituto Mexicano del Seguro Social).

Mexico has allowed retirees and people who wish to stay in the country for a longer period of time to contribute to this scheme, this is the closest to socialized medical coverage as it is possible to get.

There are some pre-existing conditions that would prevent you from coverage by way of IMSS. The typical cost of payment is calculated having a full time job on a minimum wage salary; the cost will increase marginally each year.

You can apply for IMSS on the official government web site by answering general health care, medical history and a questionnaire. The annual fee will give you access to resources like regular doctor and dental checkups, emergency surgeries, lab tests from your doctor, prescription medicine and even eyeglasses.

In a recent article about IMSS from USA Today, the paper said “The system has flaws, the facilities aren’t cutting-edge, and the deal may not last long because the Mexican government said in a recent report that it is notorious for losing money. But for now, (American) retirees say they’re getting a bargain.”

Many retirees move to Mexico from the US as they cannot afford the healthcare and the IMSS system is the best there is.

It is not altogether clear how many Americans use this IMSS system, however with between 50 and 80,000 retired Americans living in Mexico the numbers are probably in the thousands.

The Mexican social security is cautious that this plan may need reviewing and may not be sustainable if thousands more American re locate to Mexico.

You may not get the luxury treatment of a private room with TV, and phone, and if things do go wrong the Mexican court system is not on a par with the US and does not provide much recourse. However it is an affordable way of protecting yourself against medical emergencies while living in Mexico.

Private Healthcare

Private health care in Mexico is far less expensive than in America. Paying by cash for an appointment could always be an option. A general medical consultation may cost around $30 USD, but be warned costs are more expensive in major tourist destinations and big cities.

Very few Mexicans have private health insurance, but this sector is growing. There are also very good medical centers in towns and smaller cities often frequented by tourists.

Private clinics or hospitals in more rural locations have a tendency to be owned by groups of local doctors or physicians varying in levels of training. Their facilities and technology are not as sophisticated and cutting edge, but are adequate to treat minor illnesses.

Most private hospitals do not accept foreign health insurance, and will require a credit card or cash payment before any treatment. However, if you are critically injured or in grave health a private hospital will do everything they can to stabilize your condition then you would be transferred to an IMSS or Government hospital.

There is also talk of Americans being able to use Medicare or Medicaid insurance in Mexico health care facilities by the end of 2010. So really, whatever option you go for, you can be sure of accessible, high quality, well priced health care should you decide to retire to your own home in the Mexican sun.

1) Xpu-ha Beach in Tulum – With a gorgeous bay and talcum-powder white beaches, Xpu-ha is a bit remote and perfect for a romantic stroll or a peaceful swim. Just a few miles south of Cancun, this beach has a few beach bars, some all inclusive resorts and a couple of dive shops. It’s not at the ends of the earth, but it may feel like it when compared with the beaches of more popular resorts.

2) Maroma Beach in Playa del Carmen – Tucked away on the eastern shore of Mexico, just a few miles from Cancun, Maroma Beach is one of Mexico’s best kept secrets and may be its most enticing and mesmerizing beach. This is a private strip of sand, adjacent to the sumptuous Maroma Hotel, so staying at this high-end resort is the only way to access the beach, but it is well worth the price.

3) Chacala Beach in Puerto Vallarta – Not too long and a bit on the wild side, Chacala is low key and rarely crowded with tourists. It is the place to go when searching for a spot where the locals congregate and mingle. With dense jungle at the beach’s edge and a few tasty restaurants along the sand serving up freshly caught fish, Chacala offers a taste of the authentic Mexico.

4) Bahias de Huatulco in Oaxaca – With 10 bays and 36 beaches, many accessible only by boat, this strip of beaches delights with its unspoiled natural beauty and rustic landscape. The best kept secret is Playa Arrocito, a secluded beach in a hidden cove off a rocky cliff. It is hard to find but well worth the effort.

5) Playa del Amor in Cabo San Lucas – This secluded beach is accessible only by boat and is found where the Pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortez. Very few beaches in Mexico can match the dramatic setting, with amazing rock formations jutting from the azure water. In fact, the rock formations are some of Mexico’s most famous and are found on many a picture postcard.

6) Mayakoba Beach along the Riviera Maya – A private beach for guests of the Mayakoba Fairmont, this alluring strip of sand will enchant the most frazzled traveler with its wonderful restaurant, peaceful pool and shady cabanas. Secluded and quiet, the Mayakoba will not disappoint.

7) North Beach on Isla Mujeres – Just outside of noisy Cancun is the delightful North Beach, a spot with wide swaths of sand, calm waters for swimming and few tourist crowds or vendors hawking their wares. With blue, cloud-dappled skies above and tranquil waters stretched out as far as the eye can see, North Beach is a true delight.

8) Four Seasons Punta Minta in Punta Minta – Just north of Puerto Vallarta are some of Mexico’s best beaches. One in particular can be found at the upscale Four Seasons, where white sandy beach meets turquoise sea. The water here is calm and shallow, making this a great beach for swimming.

9) Playa Zicatela in Puerto Escondido – One of Mexico’s best surfing beaches and one of the Top 10 best surfing beaches world-wide, Playa Zicatela is not only beautiful but a fun place to gather, dine at one of numerous, affordable restaurants and watch the surfing action on the water.

10) Playa La Ropa in Zihuatanejo¬ – Complete with delicious restaurants and sweeping ocean views, Playa al Ropa gets the basics right and is a welcoming spot for tourists in search of uncomplicated sun-bathing and restful relaxation.