All right, so let’s be a little realistic – there’s no such thing as perfect putting. But the good news is that you can probably putt a lot better than you do right now. Here are some useful ideas to get your started.

Your Golf Stance And Proper Grip

It’s important that your grip is correct. Keep your hands light and relaxed – there’s no need for your squeeze the club as though you’re trying to break it in half. Check the location of your pinky – it needs to be on the club, not overlapped or interlocked with your other fingers. When you close your fingers together, make sure the club is straight, not on an angle. Address the ball squarely and most importantly – RELAX!

The ball needs to be centered between your shoulders, and placed towards the front of your stance. Make sure your hands are up near the top of the grip. Keep your eyes focused directly over the ball. Your goal is to hit the ball squarely along the target line. Imagine a big line going straight through the middle of your body, and then add a second line directly perpendicular, or at a 90 degree angle. This is your target line. You need to have a relaxed pendulum stroke along the target line.

Make sure the face of the putter is perpendicular to the target line, and if you’re right handed, lock in your left hand. Reverse that if you’re left handed. When you lean over the ball, your eyes should be directly parallel with the target line.

Keep your feet at the same width as your hips, with the weight balanced slightly towards the inside of the left heel.

Golf Ball Placement

Place the ball approximately half way between your left instep and the center of your stance. It’s important to do this so that the path and club head are square prior to impact. It also means that if there’s any angle on approach, it has time to level out, resulting in a good follow through.

Your Golf Stroke

Your stroke will vary a little depending on how far you need to putt. If you only need to tap the ball, your stroke needs to be centered. For a sweeping stroke, you normally are positioned slightly left. Aim to hit the ball right on the sweet spot, or the center, unless you’re putting down a slope. In that situation, it’s better to hit slightly closer to the toe of the putter. This helps to lessen the force used, and helps to avoid overshooting the hole. Relax, and make a smooth back stroke, followed by a forward stroke in the same plane. For right-handers, the left hand holds, the right hand strokes. Reverse that if you’re left handed.

Practicing Makes Perfect

Take a close look at your golf balls, and you’ll probably find there’s a line around the middle where there’s no dimples. The ideal golf ball has equal weight on any line through the center, and so is perfectly balanced. Unfortunately not all golf balls are well constructed. A good manufacturer will ensure the core materials are of a uniform density, and the cover is the same thickness all around.

If you want to test out your golf balls, find a flat, dry and level practice green. Line up the line on the ball with the target line toward the hole. Starting around 3-6 feet from the hole, make a few putts. Then move out to 10 feet from the hole. Watch the ball to see if there’s any tendency to veer one way or the other. Be honest about whether or not your own errors in stance or stroke are contributing!

Place a bunch of markers at various distances from the hole. You could use strings or quarters, for example. Vary the distance, too, so have one foot, four feet, seven feet, 10 feet etc. Practice your putting, not by shooting for the hole, but by consistently aiming to place the ball within the markers. This helps you to gauge how hard an impact at what angle will cause the ball to roll a certain way.

Change the distances between the markers, making the gaps smaller, and keep practicing until you can put the ball wherever you chose to. Maybe you can be a perfect putter after all!

Remote Control Drifting is taking off in a big way, in this article I show you step by step how to convert that old 1/10 touring car into a drifters dream machine. It’s very simple and generally only takes a couple of hours, using this practical guide I’ll have you sideways before you know it.

What exactly is drifting?

In a nut shell drifting is the art of changing the angle of attack of your car, while still maintaining full control, so in a typical drift driver X approaches the corner and turns in hard too early, this will bring the rear of the car around, Driver X will then turn back into the slide and keep the car going around the corner while maintaining as much angle and speed as possible, then he will over correct and throw the car into another slide right after the first one, with as little straight lining as possible.

Can a RC car Drift?

Yes, if you’ve ever been involved with RC racing, you know the level of setup that even the basic RC Cards come with, and drifting is no exception. While a stock standard RC car can drift out of the box, there are some basic setup and chassis modification that will help you get more angle, speed and chicks.

Where do I start?

The first thing you need is a RC car, I’ll use two examples, both of which I’ve had personal experience with, the Tamiya TT01 and the Tamiya TA05. The first step to drifting is to break that traction, due to the power to weight ratio of RC Cars we need a little help, Drift Tires are all you need to get sideways, but there is a little more you can do if you want to compete. If you can’t find RC Drift tires you can use insulation tape, be sure to wrap it in the same direction that the wheel will be turning, a good trick is to lay it down and roll you RC Car over it, this is the right way, Taped tires tend to work best on surfaces that already have a little to no traction, i.e. an underground parking lot, but they don’t last long. Drift tires all have different tractions, more traction = bigger drifts, but this is useless if you need to compete on a tight track as the amount of torque used to break traction will also generate a lot of speed, in the end it’s down to personal preference.

What next?

Okay so you taped your tires and played around a bit, not we need to get the car to be more predictable, all the standard racing setting apply, shocks, ride height and wheel angles are up to you, but if there is a must have it’s the rear differential, you need to lock it, this is also know as a spool diff, basically it means that both wheels must turn at the same time. The result is a car that will break and regain traction on command, the drifts will also be much easier to control, more throttle = more angle, less throttle = less angle.

TT01

The Tamiya TT01 uses a planetary gear setup for the rear diff, which is easy to convert (and convert back should you change your mind later) the two most command ways to lock this diff are 1. Open the Diff and fill it with glue from a glue gun, or 2. Take a small piece of fuel tubing ,cut it open along it’s length, and roll this around one of the planetary gears. Once done close the diff and check if it give the desired result before you put it back. The other option is to buy a hop-up spool diff.

TA05

The TA05 uses a ball diff at the back and the front, this is not as easy to modify, but it can be done. The way I modified mine was to use pop rivets. I opened the diff and removed the ball bearings and metal plates that the balls run along. I then drilled three small holes in the side, getting both halves of the diff. I then pop riveted them together and filed down the rivets. This worked, but be careful. 1. It’s not reversible and if you make a mistake the diff will be destroyed. 2. It doesn’t last long, eventually the forces that go through the diff will destroy this because it’s been weakened by holes. A Spool diff is available for the TA05 and this is the preferred options.

What about the front diff?

Now that we have a solid platform we can experiment with slightly different setups to find the one that suites us best, this varies from car to car, but the principle is the same. I personally love using a front one-way diff, or a center one-way diff for more control. The downside is that using brakes at any time is the same as using you e-brake (hand-brake) in a real car, the tail will slide around in a 180, while this can be useful to initiate a drift and transition to a second drift from the first it’s very easy to spin out, so most people prefer not to use the one-ways. Once again this is down to personal preference.

Why drifting is much better than racing.

Well I love both, but from the drifting side it takes a lot more skill and a lot less car, what I mean is that while racing takes skill, you can compensate with an awesome car, there is no way a TT01 will consistently win in a race against a carbon fibre racing machine. But with drifting you can, a TT01 can out perform any car out there, yes it will be difficult, but so much of drifting is down to driver skill that anything can happen. This being the case it’s also possible to get into drifting with very little financial backing (unlike racing)

I hope this article has given you some idea’s about drifting, please feel free to contact me if you have any suggestions or need any advice, advice is always free, like the rest of my site.

If you want to come up with a great chest workout, it is important to define your goals. In this article, I am focusing a chest routine with the goal of developing a chest along the lines of what a Calvin Klein Model might have. If you are purely after bench pressing power, then you would obviously want to use a different workout. This routine will develop some strength, but it isn’t the main focus of the workout.

What Should a “Masculine Chest” Look Like?

A masculine chest should have a square and angular look to it, not a rounded and soft look to it. The traditional chest workout focuses on the basic bench press. While the bench press is great in developing size and power, it can develop the lower part of the chest too much. A chest workout focused around the bench press develops the lower pecs so much that they can begin to look like breasts. The part of the chest that is underdeveloped in most men is the upper chest. If your chest workout focuses on the upper chest and not so much on the middle to lower part of the chest, then you will develop square looking pecs.

How to Build the Upper Pecs.

In order to fill out the upper pecs, you need to include a variety of incline pressing movements in your chest workout. You should make sure your chest routine begins with an incline press of some sort. I recommend beginning your chest workout with incline dumbbell presses on an adjustable bench. I like dumbbells, since you can really work that hard-to-hit inner part of the upper pecs. If you develop this part of your chest, you will get that “line” up the middle of your chest all the way to your collar bone.

Here is a Great Chest Workout Which Focuses on Hard the to Develop Areas.

1) Incline Dumbbell Presses: Adjust the bench to about 20-30 degrees above the flat setting. Pick a weight that you can press 10 -12 times. Click the bench up the next higher angle setting. With the same weight, try to do 8-10 reps. Click the bench up to a steeper angle and try to get 6-8 reps. Keep clicking to a higher angle until you are either close to upright, or until you can’t get more than 5 reps. I like starting my chest workout with this exercise, because it hits every part of the upper chest.

2) Smith Machine Incline Presses: I then take this same adjustable bench and bring it over to the smith machine. I setup the bench so that the bar hits my collar bone at the bottom of the lift. I will choose about a 20-45 degree angle. I put on a pretty light weight and mainly aim for higher reps to really fatigue the muscle. This is more of a finishing move. The smith machine insures that I keep all stress on the upper pecs. I find that if I use a regular incline bench press in my chest-workout, then I can cheat and take the stress of my upper pecs. Include the incline smith press in your chest workout if you have access to this piece of equipment.

3) Cable Crossovers: You need the include cable crossovers into your chest workout if you want to develop the line that defines the mid part of your chest. You can also get a similar effect using machine flyes. Dumbbell flyes are a great mass movement, but you won’t get enough tension in the middle of your chest. Make sure when doing machine flyes or cable crossovers that you really flex the mid part of your chest hard when your hands meet at the end of the movement.

Avoid All Flat Bench Movements in Your Chest Workout for a While.

If you are like most guys in the gym, your upper pecs probably need to catch up with your mid and lower pecs. You should consider dropping all flat bench movements out of your chest workout for a while. I dropped all the flat bench exercises for aver two years and the look of my chest improved dramatically. Another nice benefit of incline movements is that your shoulders will also take on a better appearance.

Keep The Main Points in Mind When Setting Up Your Chest Workout.

When setting up your chest workout, you can be flexible on the exercises you use. Just make sure that you focus on the angular and square look. Having great pecs is less about size and more about proper proportion and definition.

For a Capricorn native, Venus, Saturn and Mercury are key planets. Venus, obviously, because it is the owner of the fifth (trine) and tenth (angle); being the lord of the angle it forget its benefic nature, but trinal lordship again makes it fully auspicious. Saturn, for being the lord of the ascendant, is auspicious. However, Mercury being the lord of the sixth house becomes malefic, but its ownership of the ninth house, Virgo, which is also its house exaltation, makes it auspicious.

According to Bhavarth Ratnakar, a Sanskrit treatise on astrology, one born in Capricorn with Venus and Mercury in the ascendant and the Moon in the fifth aspected by Jupiter will without doubt become an emperor. (This combination is also called Maharaja Yoga-literally Great King combination-in Brihat-Jataka, another famous Sanskrit treatise in astrology.) The reason for this is not far to seek: Venus, the lord of an angular and trinal houses conjunct with another trinal lord, that too in the ascendant; this, and the presence of seventh, angular lord, the Moon in the fifth, in exaltation, fully aspected by Jupiter, is icing on the cake. It is said in astrology that if a native does not have Venus or Mercury (more the merrier) in the ascendant, or Jupiter in an angle or Mars in the tenth house, his life will be quite ordinary.

The presence of Saturn and Mercury in the ninth house will confer great fortune to this native, because Saturn is the lord of the ascendant and the second house of wealth, its presence in the ninth-one step away from exaltation-with the ninth lord in exaltation makes it a truly extraordinary combination for the simple reason that the presence only one planet in exaltation in the ninth house turns even a pauper into a successful person.

Similarly, the presence of Mars in ascendant (Capricorn) in exaltation and Moon in its own sign in the seventh house creates extraordinary vibes because the energies of fourth, eleventh and seventh lords are combining to boost the ascendant i.e. the native. If Jupiter is also aspecting Moon from its own third house (Pisces) or is conjunct with the Moon in the seventh, and the Sun in the third, one step away from exaltation, the influence of such a person will spread throughout, or even across, the nation.

The fifth, exalted Moon, aspected by eleventh Mars in its own house, Scorpio, receiving the aspect of Jupiter from the third house, with Saturn in the tenth in exaltation, conjunct Venus in its own house is also a wonderful placement.

If one of these major combinations for a Capricorn are present in the horoscope, then luxury, wealth, waterfront property and pleasures of bed will always be at the beck and call of such a one as this native.

LeRoy Junior Davis was a fantastic aerospace engineer. He developed a computer program to keep birds from bringing down jets and a program to calculate stress and strains on the B-2 stealth bomber.

In the early days of using computers in aerospace engineering there was a severe problem with jets. A jet would be flying miles above the earth at supersonic speeds. All of a sudden a bird crashed through the windshield. The bird killed the pilot. The jet crashed to the earth. This was a loss of a million dollars or more. This was happening over and over again.

A messy solution was used before computers. A frozen chicken or turkey was loaded into a cannon. A jig was constructed to hold a windshield at a certain specified angle. The bird was shot out of the cannon at the windshield. If the bird went through the windshield, the windshield was placed at a different angle and the experiment was tried again.

LeRoy was given the assignment of developing a computer program that would simulate the physical process. The characteristics of the bird, the windshield and the angle were put into the computer program. In a matter of seconds the computer simulated the bird strike thousands of times until the problem was solved. The program specified the correct angle at which the windshield could be placed so that a bird would bounce off instead of crash through the windshield.

LeRoy’s computer program is the basis for all computer programs used by aerospace companies to solve this program. The report of this program is on file at the Wright Aerodynamics Laboratory. The report only lists the name of LeRoy Junior Davis one time.

A second computer program LeRoy developed was used in the design of the B-2 stealth bomber. The B-2 stealth bomber combines revolutionary technologies for the world’s most advanced aircraft. Because it has a unique flying wing configuration, it is a highly versatile multi-role bomber, capable of delivering both nuclear and conventional bombs.

A team was commissioned by the United States Air Force to build the B-2 Bomber. Northrop Corporation of California, and Boeing Corporation of Washington, were the two principal members of the team.

Boeing built the outboard portion of the B-2 bomber wing, the aft center fuselage section, landing gears, fuel system and weapons delivery system. Northrop build the rest.

The B-2 presented a big problem for engineers, especially at Northrop. The skin of the B-2 was to be made out of a new material called composite material. The reason for this was that the B-2 needed to be a stealth bomber. It needed to be undetectable by radar.

Since it was new, the traditional methods to determine the stresses and strains on the new material did not work. At first Northrop did not have the computer programs to do the stress analysis on the B-2. If Northrop could not produce the required results for the stress tests, Boeing would take over that work.

Northrop assigned LeRoy to develop the computer program to simulate dropping a 10,000 pound weight on the tip of the wing. His computer program would have to predict how far the tip of the wing would deflect within one foot. If it the computer program failed, Boeing would take over the analysis.

By modifying his previous programs and using some special techniques he knew, he came up with the computer program that passed the test.

The physical test was done. An actual 10,000 pound weight was dropped on a mockup of the B-2 wing. The amount of deflection was within inches of what happened in the physical test.

Because of LeRoy Junior Davis, Northrop was able to keep the engineering analysis of the B-2 bomber.

LeRoy Junior Davis was a fantastic aerospace engineer because of the significant programs he developed to solve the bird strike problem and to provide analysis for the B-2 bomber.

Every face can show a multitude of personality and individual

characteristics. It is up to the portrait photographer to bring out

the subjects best features with interesting conversation and good

lighting.

The photographer’s first task is to evaluate the facial features and

decide which ones to emphasize and which ones to minimize. Long

noses look best from a low angle for instance, and double chins

respond well to a high camera angle, but this article will be aimed

at the effects of lighting on the human face.

It is easier to gauge the proper lighting by watching for key points.

A flattering main light produces a definite shadow that extends from

the crest of the nose to the cheek and includes all of the unphotogenic

area next to the nose. The height of the main light is determined by

the angle of the shelf under the eyebrow. Cavernous eyes are well

served by a low main light and protruding eyes can benefit from a

high main light. A second consideration is the appearance of a noticeable

catch light on the eye since a too high main light will not show a catch

light. The lower edge of the nose shadow should not touch or obscure

the upper lip line. A proper shadow is the key to a flattering ‘loop’ light.

This lighting shows most faces to good advantage, appearing both three

dimensional and youthful.

If a face seems round or heavy, side or split lighting is called for. While

a three to one lighting ratio is good for loop lighting, a softer two to one

ratio is best for split lighting. Bring the light source close to the face at a

ninety degree angle from the camera. The short side of the face will show

a shadow line that travels from the bridge of the nose down to the center

of the chin, dividing the face into a well lit half and a shadowed half. The

Fill light should be placed close to the lens and slightly above it in order

to produce a clearly defined chin line and to minimize unsightly wrinkles.

The key to watch for is the proper exposure in the highlights and enough

light in the shadow areas to give a good skin tone.

Hair and shoulder lighting is important and sets the mood of the picture.

All hair absorbs light disproportionately and must be adjusted in strength

according to the tone of the hair. Black hair may require three times the

amount of light that blonde or gray hair requires. Be careful not to allow

the hair light to spill over on the nose for obvious reasons. A broad source

is to be preferred over a spot source because the latter emphasizes the

reflective qualities of the hair rather than the true color and tone.

If an edge light is used for a character portrait, make sure that the light is

Well goboed and placed as close to being in the picture as possible without

showing. Some photographers place their fill lights well above the lens for

reasons of safety and convenience. But this placement produces undesirable

neck lines, eye pouches and glaring foreheads. The fill light or lights work

best at eye level or just below, filling in neck lines and almost eliminating

pouches under the eyes.

So called Rembrandt lighting shadows the eyes completely, highlighting the

upper cheeks with a triangular shape. Special care must be taken so as not to

darken the eyes too much. While some studio photographers work with wrap

around general lighting with a one to one and one half lighting ratio, no model-

ing is present to enhance the features. The only benefit is that the studio will

never get complaints of too dark shadows.

Background lights when set at the same power as the main light will produce

a background color and density the same as it appears to the naked eye. The

purpose of the background is to supply a pleasing distant contrast that does

not compete with the subject, but enhances and separates the subject from

the distance. A darkening of edges is a time-honored way of keeping the eye

on the center of interest.

Lighting and its many variations is the most important tool in helping the portrait

photographer reveal people at their best.

Let us first derive the value for Sin(45), Cos(45) and Tan(45).

Let us take an isosceles right angle triangle with base = height. Here the angle made by the hypotenuse with the base is 45 degrees. By the pythogoreas theorm the square of the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the square of the base and the height. The square of the hypotenuse is thus sqrt(2) * base or sqrt(2) * height.

Sin(45) is hence height/length of hypotenuse = height / sqrt(2) * height = 1/ sqrt(2)

Cos (45) is defined as length of base / length of height and hence it is base / sqrt(2) * base which is equal to 1/sqrt(2).

Tan(45) is hence Sin(45)/Cos(45) which is equal to 1.

Let us derive the expression for Sin(60), Cosine(60) and Tan(60). Let us consider an equilateral triangle. In the equilateral triangle the three angles are equal to 60 degrees. Let us draw a perpendicular between one of the vertex to the opposite side. This will bisect the opposite side by exactly half as the perpendicular line will also be a perpendicular bisector. Let us consider any one of the two triangles created with the perpendicular bisector as the height. So the length of the perpendicular bisector is nothing but sqrt( l ** l – l * * l /4) = l * sqrt(3)/2. By definition Sin(60) is hence height of the triangle / hypotenuse, so Sin(60) can be calculated as l * sqrt(3/2) /l = sqrt(3)/2. Hence Cos(60) can be calculated as sqrt(1 – Sin(60) * Sin(60)) = sqrt(1 – 3/4) = 1/2.

In the same triangle the opposite angle is equal to 30 degrees. So Sin(30) = l/2 / l = 1/2 or 0.5. Using this Cos(30) can be calculated as sqrt(1 – 1/4) = sqrt(3)/2.

Let us go one step further and derive values for Cos(15). Cosine(A + B) is defined as CosineACosineB – SinASinB so when A = B then Cos(A + B) = Cos2A or in other words is equal to Cos (A) * Cos(A) – Sin(A) * Sin(A). Cos2A is equal to sqrt(3)/2 is equal to CosA * Cos A – Sin A * Sin A. Sin A * Sin A can be written as 1 – Cosine A * Cos A. So the expression becomes 2 Cosine A * Cosine A – 1 = sqrt(3)/2. So 2 Cos A * Cos A = (2 + sqrt(3))/2. Cos A * Cos A = (2 + sqrt(3))/2. So Cos 15 = Sqrt(2 + Sqrt(3))/2). Using this values for Sin 15, Sin 75, Cos 75, Sin 7.5. Sin 3,75, Cos 3.75 can be determined

Gann fans, angles, grids and cardinal squares are some of the trading tools that allowed William Delbert Gann more than $500 million in profit in the early 1900s.

A Gann fans displays lines at each one of the 9 Gann angles. A Gann grid is an 80 x 80 grid where each line is 1 x 1. As a result, the lines will be spaced 80 time periods apart. Gann centred his technical analysis forecasting methods not only on price but also on time. He stated repeatedly in many of his books that time is as important as price when it comes to analysing market behaviour. Indeed, Gann angles and fans aim at forecasting not only the trend reversal but also when it would occur. Forecasting not only the price but also when it would materialize is invariably the ultimate outcome of technical analysis, and many analysts would indeed state that this is impossible.

Gann was indeed quoted stating that “When you know how to use time with price, you know how to trade”. Whether Gann fully revealed his Gann angles and fan techniques will always remain open to debate. But the main Gann angles theories on public record can be summarized as follows:

• Time and price are one and the same. When they are in sync (i.e. in a 1 x 1 ratio) then a major trend reversal is imminent from a technical analysis perspective
• Time is the most important factor. Day/week counts usually go in 30, 45, 60, 90 and 180 time periods
• Resistance levels in both time and price are 25, 33, 50, 66 and 75 per cent of the previous range. Using Gann angles they can be extended to 100, 150 and 200 per cent.
• Trend lines do work, and Gann claims authorship for these

Gann was a strong believer in the fact that human behaviour repeats itself over time and therefore analysing past behaviour allows forecasting the future.

The most frequent use of Gann angles and fans is in identifying support and resistance levels. But there are many other technical analysis methods that aim to achieve the same result, so what sets Gann angles apart from the rest?

Gann angles adds a new dimension to support and resistance levels insofar that they can be diagonal. When both move at the same time (i.e. are on the 1 x 1 line) then the market is in balance. Once one of the nine Gann angle lines is broken, the next angle line will provide the next support or resistance level.

Chain saws are wonderful tools when they are cutting properly. Most people know that when a chain saw gets dull it does not cut very easily, and in fact can become quite dangerous. But, there are a number of other problems that can cause your chain saw to cut poorly. Most of these issues can be traced back to improper sharpening procedures or poor maintenance.

When you’re cutting with your chain saw, if it cuts crooked or at an angle this is generally an indication that the teeth have been improperly filed. Either they were filed at the wrong angle, or every tooth was not filed the same amount and with the same pressure. If filing is not the cause of a chainsaw pulling to one side or the other, then it could be the bar or the sprocket at the far end of the bar are in poor condition and need maintenance or straightening.

If you have a newly sharpened chain saw and it dulls quickly, usually this is caused by thin cutting edges resulting from too much file pressure or low angle when sharpening your chain saw. Your chainsaw will need to be refiled using less pressure, as well as lowering the angle of attack and checking the height of the depth gauges.

If the chain grabs and cuts rough the saw sharpener probably induced a forward hook on the teeth as a result of too much pressure from the top of the file. A good indication that the depth gauges are set incorrectly is when the chain digs too far into the wood. You will need to lower the height of the depth gauges in most cases. If you detect overheating of the chain you may not have enough bar oil, or the saw sharpener created a backslope on the teeth during the last sharpening.

Drive link problems on the chain can result in severe problems like the chain jumping off the bar. Incorrect chain tension can cause this, and you may have to replace bent drive links on your chain. Also, excessive chain chatter can be caused by improper sprocket fit, and result in front or back peened drive links.

Whenever you identify these kinds of cutting problems with your chain saw you should immediately remove the bar and chain from the saw and inspect carefully. There are usually only a couple of nuts to remove the chain and separate the bar from the saw. This will allow you to inspect the parts for dangerous defects and keep your saw in good condition.

W D Gann was a prolific writer and trader, and created a fortune of over 50 million dollars (equivalent to 500 million today!).

Many of his trading predictions were the subject of public record. For instance, he correctly predicted the 1929 crash a year in advance!

Gann died in 1955, but he still holds legendary status as a technical innovator.

By predicting the market using Gann angles, you can add a valuable tool to your trading strategy.

Assumption: By Studying the Past, We Can Predict the Future

Gann based predictions of price movements on three premises:

1. Price, time, and range are the only three factors to consider.

2. The markets are cyclical in nature.

3. The markets are geometric in their design and in function.

Gann believed that human nature was constant, and this showed up in repetitive price patterns that are identifiable, and which can therefore be acted upon to increase profit potential.

Gann’s Strategy for Trading Success

Based on the above assumptions, Gann’s strategies revolved around three areas of prediction:

1. Price study- This study uses support and resistance lines, pivot points and angles.

2. Time study – This studies historically reoccurring dates derived from natural order.

3. Pattern study – These study market swings using trend lines and reversal patterns.

Constructing Gann Angles

Predicting the market using Gann angles requires subjective judgment and practice. Here is what you need to do:

1. Determine the time units – One common way to determine a time unit is to study the chart and look at the distances in which price movements occur. Then, put the angles to the test and see how accurate they are. The intermediate-term time frame (one to three-month) tends to produce the optimal amount of patterns compared to short term daily, or multi year charts.

2. Determine the high or low from which to draw the Gann lines – The most common way to accomplish this is to complement it with other forms of technical analysis i.e. Fibonacci levels or pivot points. Gann used what he called “vibrations” or “price swings.” He determined these by analyzing charts using theories such as Fibonacci numbers.

3. Decide which pattern to use – The two most common patterns are the 1×1, the 1×2, and the 2×1. These are simply variations of the slope of the line. For example, the 1×2 is half the slope of the 1×1. The numbers simply indicate the number of units.

4. Look for patterns – The direction would be either downward and to the right from a high point or upward and to the right from a low point.

5. Look for repeat patterns on the chart – The basis of this technique is the premise that markets are cyclical.

Using Gann Angles for Trading Profits

The most common use for Gann angles when predicting the market is to indicate support and resistance levels. Many other trading methods use support and resistance lines, so what sets Gann’s method apart from the rest?

Quite simply, predicting the market using Gann, angles add a new dimension to support and resistance levels, in that they can be diagonal.

The Optimum Gann Formation

The optimum balance between time and price exists when prices move identically to time. This is present when the Gann angle is at 45 degrees.

In total, there are nine different Gann angles. When one of these trend lines is broken, the following angle will provide the next level of support or resistance.

Learn More about a Legendary Trader

Predicting the market with Gann angles is both original and innovative, and is a proven way of analyzing the market.