Some of you reading this are about to take your first TIG welding certification test in the aerospace industry. Maybe you are transitioning from another industry like pipe welding where you welded stainless and carbon steel pipe, or food service where you welded stainless steel sheet metal. Either way, let me tell you a few tips that might help you get ready:

Everything is thinner and smaller. The tig torch, electrode, filler wire, and possibly even the tig welding machine will be smaller than you are accustomed to. In pipe welding for example, a 1/8 inch rod is considered the big tig welding rod. In Aerospace tig welding, a 1/16 inch rod is big.

Everything needs to be cleaned better. All joints are normally x-rayed in an aerospace tig welding certification test. Metals like titanium, aluminum, and magnesium are prone to porosity. Remember the 3 C’s …clean, clean, clean. Especially important is filing the sheared edge of metal that will be welded. That sheared edge looks pretty clean but it is a trap for oil and corrosion products. File it and when you think you have filed it enough, file some more.  

Everything makes a difference. Little things like the size of your tack welds, how you position the test plates in the fixture, how much flow rate is used on the purge gas, angle of torch, angle of filler metal rod, what kind of abrasive you use to clean the metal, how pure the argon or other shielding gas is…you get the picture.  Like my old coach used to tell me…nothing is fair, but everything  matters.  

Everything needs to be shielded better. The hot tip of the filler rod will put oxides in your puddle. You can get away with a little of that in pipe welding stainless and mild steel, but it will kill you when welding something like .020″ 15-7 precipitation hardening stainless or .032″ inconel 718. To keep the end of the rod perfectly shielded , use a tig cup that is at least 3/4 inch id. With a diffuser that provides a nice soft blanket of argon shielding to the puddle. ..and you need to test it on a scrap piece of titanium to make sure it is working before lighting up on your tig welding certification plates.  

3 more tips for passing an aerospace tig welding test…

1. About 1 amp per 1 thousands of thickness welded will get you in the ball park. Set the tig welding machine amperage accordingly plus about 10 more amps just in case and use the foot pedal to adjust. This will keep you out of trouble by limiting your amperage. usually a bead width of 4 times the thickness welded will get the penetration needed for butt welds.
2. Use the smallest electrode that will get the job done.  And sharpen it really good with scratches running lengthwise. long tapered works better for really thin (.020″) and less of a taper is better for thicker welds
3. Use the smallest filler wire that will work with having to feed too much. Too big a tig welding rod will draw too much heat out of the puddle and will cause you to use more amperage than is required . Too small a filler wire will cause you to feed too much and you cant keep up.

Workplace ergonomics has become a popular topic in recent years. The days of people using normal desks with normal chairs are starting to disappear as evidenced by the high number of ergonomic office and task chairs that are being released onto the market and purchased not only by offices but by individuals for their home offices as well.

Herman Miller, a company well-known for its ergonomic chairs, has also takes its game into the area of desks with the Herman Miller Envelop desk.

The Envelop desk is so named because it envelops you. It slides towards you at a slight downward angle and has a cutout for the user to allow the desk to surround you rather than just be in front of you like a traditional desk. The angle is adjustable depending on what is most comfortable to the user.

The keyboard rests on the sloped part and when combined with an ergonomic chair and proper posture, allows for good ergonomics of the forearms and wrists. Monitors can be placed at the top of the desk on a surface which remains flat, or can be attached to the back of the desk with monitor arms. Add a foot rest under the desk and you can achieve some ideal ergonomic working positions.

All of this innovation is not without some drawbacks, however.

First, because the desk surface is angled, it’s hard to store anything on it. Is your mouse going to slide off the desk? Where are you going to put your cup of coffee? It’s advanced ergonomics at the cost of some functionality. Of course, this can be remedied by placing another table or filing cabinet next to the Envelop desk to put your coffee, pens, notebooks, etc. on.

Second, the desk is height adjustable (which is nice) but to adjust it requires turning the desk upside down, so it’s not something that you can just adjust on a whim.

Third, there are no drawers or anything. External storage is required. So it’s not really feasible for an all-purpose desk solution.

Finally, making use of its tilted surface requires an ergonomic chair that reclines so your body can be positioned at the correct angle relative to the desk, so if you just have a standard office task chair you might not even be able to take advantage of the Envelop.

The Herman Miller Envelop may be a great option, or it may not work at all, and it’s all going to depend on the user’s needs. But if it meets your needs then it’s definitely a cool piece of ergonomic furniture that is not only functional but also adds a stylish element to your office.

Basic basic shots include the one-hand set shot, free throw, jump shot, three-point shot, hook shot, lay-up, and runner. These shots share certain basic mechanics, including sight, balance, hand position, elbow-in alignment, shooting rhythm, and follow-through. The best way to develop your shot is to concentrate on only one or two mechanics at a time.

Sight

Focus your eyes on the basket, aiming just over the front of the rim for all except bank shots. Use a bank shot when you are at a 45-degree angle to the backboard. A 45-degree angle falls within the distance between the box and the middle hash mark on the lane line. The distance for the bank angle–called the 45-degree funnel–widens as you move out. For shooting a bank shot, aim for the top near corner of the box on the backboard. Sight your target as soon as possible and keep your eyes focused on the target until the ball reaches the goal. Your eyes should never follow the flight of the ball or your defender’s hand. Concentrating on the target helps eliminate distractions such as shouting, towel waving, an opponent’s hand, or even a hard foul.

Balance

Being in balance leads to power and rhythmic control in your shot. Your base, or foot position, is the foundation of your balance, and keeping your head over your feet (base) controls your balance. Spread your feet comfortably to shoulder width and point your toes straight ahead. Pointing your toes straight aligns your knees, hips, and shoulders with the basket. The foot on the side of your shooting hand (right foot for a right-handed shot) is forward. The toe of your back foot is aligned with the heel of the foot on your shooting side (toe-to-heel relationship). Flex your legs at the knees. This gives crucial power to your shot. Beginning and fatigued players often fail to flex their knees. To compensate for the lack of power from not using their legs, they tend to throw the ball from behind the head or shove the ball from the hip. Both actions produce errors. Your head should be over your waist and feet. Your head controls your balance and should be slightly forward, with your shoulders and upper body inclining forward toward the basket. Your shoulders should be relaxed.

Hand Position

Hand position is the most misunderstood part of shooting. It is vital to start and finish your shot with your shooting hand facing the basket (behind the ball). Placing the non-shooting hand under the ball for balance is also important. This position, with the shooting hand facing the basket (behind the ball) and the non-shooting hand under the ball, is called the block-and-tuck. It leaves your shooting hand free to shoot the ball, rather than having to balance and shoot the ball. Place your hands fairly close together. Relax both hands and spread the fingers comfortably. Keep the thumb of your shooting hand relaxed and not spread apart to avoid tension in your hand and forearm. A relaxed hand position (like a handshake) forms a natural cup, enabling the ball to contact the pads of your fingers and not your palm. Place your non-shooting (balance) hand slightly under the ball. The weight of the ball balances on at least two fingers: the ring finger and the little finger. The arm of your balance hand should be in a comfortable position, with the elbow pointing slightly back and to the side. Your shooting hand is turned toward the basket behind the ball, your index finger directly at the ball’s midpoint. The ball is released off your index finger. On a free throw, you have time to align your index finger with the valve or other marking at the midpoint of the ball. Developing fingertip control and touch leads to a soft, accurate shot.

Elbow-In Alignment

Hold the ball comfortably in front of and above your shooting-side shoulder between your ear and shoulder. Keep your shooting elbow in. When your shooting elbow is in, the ball is aligned with the basket. Some players do not have the flexibility to place the shooting hand behind the ball facing the basket while keeping the elbow in. In this case, first place your shooting hand behind the ball facing the basket, then move the elbow in as far as your flexibility allows.

Rhythmical Shooting Motion

Shoot the ball with a smooth, evenly paced, rhythmical lifting motion. Shooting involves synchronizing the extension of your legs, back, shoulders, and shooting elbow and the flexion of your wrist and fingers. The initial force and rhythm for your shot come from a down-and-up motion of your legs. Start with your knees slightly flexed. Bend your knees and then fully extend them in a down-and-up motion. Saying the key words down and up from the start of your shot until the release of the ball will trigger the down-and-up action of your legs, providing rhythm and force for your shot. Your legs and shooting arm work together. As your legs go up, your arm goes up. As your legs reach full extension, your back, shoulders, and shooting arm extend in a smooth, continuous upward direction. It is vital to keep the ball high with your shooting hand toward the basket. Use the down-and-up motion of your legs for rhythm rather than lowering the ball for rhythm. Keeping the ball high fosters a quick release and also provides less chance for error. As your arm goes up, the ball is tipped back from your balance hand to your shooting hand. A good guide is to tip the ball back only until there is a wrinkle in the skin between your wrist and forearm. This angle provides a quick release and consistent follow-through. Direct your arm, wrist, and fingers straight toward the basket at a 45- to 60-degree angle, extending your shooting arm completely at the elbow. The final force and control of your shot comes from flexing your wrist and fingers forward and down. Release the ball off your index finger with soft fingertip touch to impart backspin on the ball and soften the shot. Keep your balance hand on the ball until the point of release. The amount of force you should impart to the ball depends on the range of the shot. For short distances, the arm, wrist, and fingers provide most of the force. Long-range outside shots require more force from your legs, back, and shoulders. Smooth rhythm and a complete follow-through will also improve long-range shooting.

Follow-Through

After releasing the ball off the index finger, keep your arm up and fully extended with the index finger pointing straight to the target. The palm of your shooting hand should be turned down and the palm of your balance hand should be turned up. Keep your eyes on your target. Exaggerate your follow-through. Hold your arm up in a complete follow-through position until the ball reaches the basket, then react to the rebound or get into defensive position. Holding your follow-through until the ball reaches the basket is not only good mechanics, but it also makes you look and act like a shooter and increases confidence.

Edited from:

Wissel, Hal (2004) Basketball: Steps to Success, 2nd edition, Human Kinetics, Champaign, IL

Available at www.basketballworld.com

The Manfrotto 7302YB is a very lightweight and compact DSLR tripod. Those of you among us who like nature photography will know how much trouble a heavy tripod can cause us, because of this most of us will leave the tripod in the house next time around. The Manfrotto 7302YB combats this problem by being both lightweight and compact this means that this tripod is not going to get in our way when we are not using it. The Manfrotto 7302YB is very compact but does keep the Manfrotto quality that we have all come accustomed to.

One slight problem that I do have with this tripod is the bottom leg section. The legs in this section are a little thin for my liking and could see them breaking if they weren’t looked after properly. I however haven’t had a problem with mine, and I have managed to drop the tripod a few times while out walking.

One feature of the Manfrotto 7302YB worth mentioning is the 2 adjustable leg angles which can be changed for the style of your shooting. The first angle will give you maximum height while the 2nd angle spaces the tripod legs out further which supports your camera even more giving it more stability.

Everything on the tripod is made of aluminum including the quick release plate, this means that the tripod is both strong and light weight.

Looking at the manufactures specifications it appears that the tripod is recommended to support up to 3.5kg which is more than suitable for beginner to semi pro shooters. Whilst testing I have used my canon 50D and both 70-200 f2.8 and 24-105 f4 Luxury lenses which both weigh a substantial amount. The Manfrotto 7302YB stood up to the test and handled the camera body and both lenses easily.

The Manfrotto 7302YB is an excellent tripod for anyone with a small sized budget. If you can pick this tripod up for less than $130 then you’re getting a good deal.

Let’s face it: The missionary position gets a little old after while, right? Some couples find that their sex life flounders because they are doing the same positions over and over again for years on end. The woman on top sex positions offer a great way to spice things up and give the woman more control over her pleasure.

Many couples try various positions that are suited for one of the partners, but may not really serve the needs or interests of the other partner. The missionary position often does not stimulate the woman in the area of the G-spot, therefore causing a lot of mental grief over not being able to achieve an orgasm during the act of intercourse.

The woman on top sex positions that can be used offer a new, exciting way of experiencing sex. One such example is the where the woman straddles the man on top and leans back offering a great view for him and an interesting angle for her.

There is also the position of the woman on top and leaning forward where her breasts can be in full view for the pleasure of her partner. This is one position that many men enjoy! It also allows a woman to control the depth and angle of the penis to allow for more pleasure.

Some women also enjoy turning around with her rear facing his chest and enjoying intercourse from that angle.  You must be more cautious with this position as the angles are not what most are accustomed to and can be off putting if you are not taking it slowly.

Another great woman on top position is sitting face to face as if the woman is sitting in his lap. This offers a great way of kissing your lover at the same time you are having sex.

The end result of woman on top sex positions is that the woman can fully control how and when she has an orgasm, while giving the man a break from doing most of the work.

Lattice of a crystal does indicate how to repeat the pattern of atoms. Base or motif indicates what to repeat. The sum of lattice and base form the crystal structure. Due to the systematic pattern of the atoms in a crystal, there are some typical relationships among the faces of crystals. The stereographic projections do aid in understanding the relationships among several crystal faces. Size and shape of the lattice of crystals determine the angular relationships among the crystal faces. Based on the regular arrangement of atoms, and the unit cells several crystallographic and mathematical relationships among the crystal faces were discovered.

The regular pattern of the lattices would lead to the uniform arrangement of faces and thus angles among them. The law of constancy of inter facial angles states that the angle between two faces remain constant measured at a certain temperature. Inter facial angles means, the angles between two faces. But in crystallography, the angles are measured between the normals drawn to any two adjacent faces of a crystal.

According to the law of axial ratios, the relative lengths of the crystallographic axes are measured with respect to the axis which is running from right to left. Except in the hexagonal system, the remaining systems, do possess three axes. Since all the three axes in the isometric system are of equal length, the axial ratio for them would be equal to one. Similarly, for the triclinic system, in which the axes are of variable length, the ratio too is variable.

Miller did measure the indices for various crystallographic forms. The procedure to measure the indices does involve measurement of parameters and reciprocating them, and clearing the fractions.

Twinning might occur during the growth of crystals. Twinned crystals resemble as if the one half is in the reverse direction of the other half. Twin plane is a plane which cuts the twinned crystal in such a way that one half is the mirror image of the other. Twin axis is an axis along which if the twinned crystal is rotated, it comes back to its untwinned state. Based on the twin plane, several types of twins were recognised. Albite twin, baveno twin, carlsbad, manebach, etc are various types of twinning and can be identified by their twin planes.

The demand for crystals in several fields lead to the invention of different types of methods of crystal growth such as the growth from liquid, from vapour, from solid, etc.

A narrow aperture means that the depth of field is smaller. If your lens has a very small diameter, you will have to use a longer shutter speed (larger f-stop) to achieve the effect. This reduces the amount of light that enters the camera, resulting in a blurred image.

A wide angle lens is capable of much wider depth of field than a narrow aperture lens. Because the f-stop is larger, the same shutter speed is used to enable as well as hinder the effect. Wide angle lenses allow you to use a longer shutter speed and lower the depth of field.

Other cameras, such as a digital SLR, may only support lenses that are used with wider angle lenses. Other forms of film or digital photography require that the f-stop be increased to achieve the same effects. The shallow depth of field gives the image a faster shutter speed.

Photographers who are looking for an effect that doesn’t need to be done can simply use natural light to create this effect. The use of a long exposure during a sunset, while the sun is still in the sky and fading, produces a unique image. Also, think about using a long period of time to take the shot. The camera can be put in twilight mode, allowing you to use a shorter shutter speed, but keep the image dark for a longer period of time.

Another important factor when creating the effect is the length of the shutter. A long shutter speed is best if you want to get an image that has a blurred background.

If you use landscape photography as your hobby, then you should try to take as many images as possible. However, if you only intend to take pictures that are meant to sell, you can make your photos more interesting by using the techniques and tricks discussed in this article.

When taking a photo of a landscape, it is important to take note of the shallow depth of field that is required. The depth of field is the area that is covered by the background.

Depending on the conditions, the background can cover a large portion of the photo, leaving little in the foreground. To see a blurred background, you will need to use a longer shutter speed and a wider aperture.

The black and white photograph is a different kind of situation altogether. To avoid blur, use a longer shutter speed and use a smaller aperture.

By reducing the depth of field and increasing the size of the aperture, you will allow a larger amount of light to enter the camera, thus blurring the background less. This can help to bring out a specific feature in the landscape, such as a lake or mountain top.

If you want to capture deep colors, such as reds, yellows, and oranges, the depth of field is more important. In addition, you can create images that are distorted to show a specific feature in the background, such as tree branches, rocks, and other features.

You can create distortion effects by using a zoom lens. To use a zoom lens, make sure you have your camera on a tripod. Make sure you close your eyes before zooming in.

Early inclinometers or clinometers were made up of two basic parts, one of which is a flat side, or base, on which it stands, and the second a hollow disk just half filled with some heavy liquid. The glass face of the disk is surrounded by a graduated scale that marks the angle at which the surface of the liquid stands, with reference to the flat base. The line 0, being parallel to the base, when the liquid stands on that line, the flat side is horizontal; the line 90, being perpendicular to the base, when the liquid stands on that line, the flat side is perpendicular or plumb. Intervening angles are marked, and, with the aid of conversion tables, the instrument indicates the rate of fall per set distance of horizontal measurement, and set distance of the sloping line.

The earliest electronic inclinometers used some form of a weight, an extension, and a potentiometer. Early in the 1900s precision curved glass tubes filled with a damping liquid and a steel ball were introduced to provide accurate visual angle indication. Common sensor technology for electronic tilt sensors includes accelerometers, liquid capacitives, electrolytics, gas bubbles in liquid, and pendula. Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems technology is fast becoming the new standard due it’s tiny size and low cost. Inclinometers and clinometers generate an artificial horizon and measure angular tilt with respect to this horizon. They are used in cameras, aircraft flight controls, and automobile security systems. The tilt angle range is the range of desired linear output measured in degrees.

The earliest electronic inclinometers used some form of a weight, an extension, and a potentiometer. Early in the 1900s precision curved glass tubes filled with a damping liquid and a steel ball were introduced to provide accurate visual angle indication. Common sensor technology for electronic tilt sensors includes accelerometers, liquid capacitives, electrolytics, gas bubbles in liquid, and pendula. Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems technology is fast becoming the new standard due it’s tiny size and low cost. Inclinometers and clinometers [http://www.tiltmeter.com] generate an artificial horizon and measure angular tilt with respect to this horizon. They are used in cameras, aircraft flight controls, and automobile security systems. The tilt angle range is the range of desired linear output measured in degrees.

There are several locations on a race car that are ideal for a GoPro mount. These spots reveal the most racing action with the least amount of custom camera mounting fabrication. This article discusses 5 potential mounting spots that will add to the quality of your racing videos right off the bat with minimal testing.

Spot 1: Roll Cage. With GoPro’s standard roll bar mounting equipment you can locate the camera just over the driver’s shoulder on a vertical, diagonal or horizontal bar. This location offers the best view of in-car race action, whether it’s on the drag strip, road course or oval. In addition to the forward view of the track and racing competitors, a GoPro camera mounted on the cage can be easily adjusted to capture the driver’s upper body, dashboard and gauges, sponsor logos inside the car and race traffic on either side of the car. Slight adjustments in camera angle and resolution will yield different effects. Roll bars make stable platforms so the video is normally vibration-free. Make sure you use the open back GoPro housing cover if you want to capture car sounds.

Spot 2: Front Bumper. This is one of the riskiest locations, especially for stock cars, drifters and road racers, due to inevitable contact with competitors. However, mounting your GoPro on the front bumper has advantages for creating realistic and exciting video. First, the low camera angle gives an awesome sense of speed. The track surface rushes under the car in the lower half of the footage, giving viewers a great sense of speed. Second, close up action with competitors in front, the track, crowd, etc. is captured in a way you can’t get otherwise due to the wide angle lense. The driver always feels close to the action — to get this effect with a camera you must mount it physically close to the action. Obviously, the risk of the bumper mount is you will lose the camera in an impact. This risk can be lessened but not eliminated by locating the mount on top of the bumper toward the rear, or even inside the grill area.

Spot 3: Roof. The GoPro car mounting kit includes a strong suction cup mount that is ideal for locating the camera on a car’s roof. The benefit of a roof mount is the unfettered view in any direction. It gives a “birds eye” view of the action from a high angle. This allows the camera to capture multiple cars, lots of the track and even interesting things like trees flying by, the starter’s flag stand, fand in the crowd and other views. A roof mount is perfect for showing sponsor logos on a car’s hood, roof or rear deck lid. The suction cup mount is sturdy and rarely comes off. The downside is the excitement and impact of being in the driver’s seat doesn’t translate as well from up high. However, this is one of those locations that provides great add on footage for your racing videos.

Spot 4: Outside Over Driver’s Shoulder. The drifting crowd has made this camera spot popular. The GoPro is mounted using a simple sticky mount or a suction cup to the outside of the window behind and above the driver. It has the benefit of capturing the driver’s head and hands during the race, which adds a fabulous sense of action to your video footage. When the camera is located higher it offers some of the birds eye roof mount effect. When mounted lower it offers more driver action in the picture. Beware of mounting it too low or you’re liable to have the camera peeled off by a competitor! The outside window spot is best for very wide angle views.

Spot 5: Inside Pointed at Driver. This option offers a ton of variety in where the camera is mounted and what you focus it on. On the dashboard directly in front of the driver pointed back at his face films his eyes and reactions during the race. This makes the video very realistic and conveys the interesting human element of racing. Moving the camera on the dash toward the center or far corner progressively captures more of the driver’s side and what’s going on outside the car. These angles blend driver action with techncial control movements and outside competitor activity. Pointing the dash mounted GoPro directly backward usually isn’t the best since 75% of the view will be the car’s interior and very little race action will be shown. There are many other spots such as footwell, opposite door, steering wheel pointed back, etc. to play with.

Mounting one or more GoPro cameras in any of these spots on a race car will yield great footage for your next racing video. Feel free to experiment or use these locations as a starting point.

Security cameras in Vancouver are an essential part of security systems. Proper installation and choice right equipment, plays a huge role in performance.

Main problems that may arise during setup of such systems:

* Improper installation of security cameras;

* Camera wrong location;

* Poor quality products.

We describe all these issues in more details.

For proper selection of CCTV cameras, we need to address several questions:

* What is the purpose of installing video surveillance cameras?

* Is it necessary to install hidden security cameras?

* Do you need built-in night vision functionality?

* What is size of area perimeter and camera locations?

* Should a security camera follow moving object?

* Is there a need to distinguish colors?

Video surveillance cameras are distinguished by following features:

* Camera light sensitivity defines how well the camera can see in the dark. Light sensitivity is measured in Lux units. Low Lux indicates that the camera is light sensitive and will work better in dark locations. If you care about night performance, then low light would be an optimal choice. Make sure that lux figure in camera specification sheet does not exceed 0.01

* Camera resolution is responsible for picture quality and it is measured in (TVL) TV lines.

Typical security camera has approximately 420 to 480tvl. A low resolution camera has 320 – 380tvl and high resolution 520 – 700TV lines. For best combination of price and pictures quality, choose resolution between 500 – 600TV lines.

* Lens viewing angle allows surveillance camera to focus on wide areas as well as areas far away from the camera. Depending on the size of the observation, you can choose a lens with narrow or wide viewing angles. Camera lens viewing angle is measured in (mm) millimeters. For wide angle lens range is 1.8mm – 4mm, while long range cameras can have lens up to 100mm. Typical lens of a surveillance camera is in the range of 2.8 – 9mm. Long range lens are used for traffic cameras to pick up vehicle license plates. If you are not sure about lens size, it is advisable to consult with professionals.

* Place the camera surveillance.

CCTV Cameras are suitable for indoor and outdoor locations. An outdoor or weatherproof camera has heater and water resisting protecting housing. It is recommended to use weatherproof cameras for indoors. An indoor camera over long period of use can build up dust inside, which will affect picture quality. This will eventually require camera disassembling and component clean up.

No matter how big and modern your video surveillance system can be; it is important to keep all elements matched based on the project.

After selecting proper cameras you need to identify location to install them:

* Incorrect placement of surveillance cameras will lead to blind spots;

* Some locations would bring unwanted attention or will not match the interior;

* CCTV cameras should be kept out of reach, or placed in vandal resistant housing

For suitable camera locations you will need a floor plan, with objects and places that require more attention and danger spots. Take into count day and night recording operation. Indicate on the plan light sources, areas with low light and places blocked by plants. This is difficult work, and small error that may lead to bad visibility.

When you mount cameras also need to consider some facts:

* Any wires must be securely hidden, to avoid cutting or placed in conduit;

* Security camera direction must be tight, so it does not get offset;

* Leave access in case of future service

From an economic point of view it is cheaper to purchase complete camera package including installation, rather getting equipment and labor separate. In Vancouver and Toronto security cameras can be installed on professional level and right price.