If the thought of using emails to sell intimidates you, don’t worry. The good news is that if you screw up email marketing, you’re in good company.

You can even get decent results if you make these mistakes, apparently. I wouldn’t know – I was lucky enough to receive some excellent training before I started dabbling.

Even without this training, I like to think I’d avoid some of these. The biggest screw-ups seem obvious to me. Based on what pollutes my inbox (temporarily, before I race towards the unsubscribe link), even some experts need a little schooling on this.

Don’t think of this as a rant. Think of it as a list of things to avoid doing.

The first thing is to make sure your name makes sense.

Yes, this is advice that I need to give apparently. Again, some digital marketing experts get this wrong. But your emails should clearly be from you (if you want to be personable) or your company’s name (if you want your brand to shine).

Many people say you should never use your company’s name as your email’s name. I think ‘never’ is a little strong, but it’s not bad advice. If you’re unsure, go for the personal touch.

But when I talk about your name, I mean your full name. Somewhere along the line, I subscribed to something and started receiving emails from ‘Jack’.

Yes, that was their name.

Jack who? Am I supposed to know who ‘Jack’ is?

Is everybody?

If people on your email list have no idea who’s emailing them, guess what? They’ll mark you as spam and hit unsubscribe. Your hard work attracting them ended up hurting you.

Not smart.

The second thing is to never send an email you wouldn’t love to read. If your email is nothing but a naked sales pitch, it better be a darn entertaining one. People aren’t going to install adblockers on their browsers and then welcome ads into their inboxes.

Now, that’s not to say you never sell to your list. You’re a business, after all. The whole point of having a list is for selling.

But be smart about it. When you email them, include a story, a useful bit of trivia or some practical advice. Add value to their day. Make them feel happy that they chose to subscribe to you. Then, somewhere in that valuable little email, put a link or two to something you’re selling.

If you do both of these things, you train your list to like you. They’ll see your name and know that you’re sharing something great. If they’re in a buying mood, they’ll buy. If not, you haven’t wasted their time.

I see other common mistakes out there. Certainly more than I should. I can’t imagine how much money they cost them.

Bypass these and it’s like finding a shortcut towards money and influence.

One of the great increasing mysteries of today’s modern boatbuilding is the amount of hi-tech gobble-de-gook that the average home boat builder is expected to wade through when the time comes to paint the boat after the horrendous amount of sanding, fairing and hard work is (mostly) over and the fruits of your labour now require a shiny deep lustre that the painting now promises to bring. This part, to my mind at least, is one of the best parts of boatbuilding, the finish! (Well, at least the start of the finish!)

Painting a boat used to be a reasonably simple task. All one needed was a fine dry day, one of Dad’s paintbrushes, some turps, a roll of masking tape, a bit of pink primer left over from the decorating and a half gallon of shiny blue enamel paint from the local hardware store…they were the days!

Not so today, my friends! The unsuspecting boat builder who toddles off to the local chandlery or superstore best be prepared for the very worst- not only will he (or she) face a huge financial onslaught on their wallet but a mind boggling array of hi-tech whiz wow balderdash that the (generally) uninformed shop assistant will proceed to throw in their general direction in the faint hope that you will give in under the stress and buy several litres of the latest polurethanicalslitheryaminomolecular goop that’s just come in. For example, you’ll be faced with trade names like ‘Interlux Interthane coating’. I mean, come on, it sounds like a new space invaders game! This is bloody paint! There are many others but I’m sure you get the gist of what I’m saying.

Another example of the kind of thing that drives me nuts is that you can expect to buy several litres of a iso-cyanate two pack marine polyurethane paint only to be cheerfully told its illegal to spray it unless you have a proper licenced premises to do so, drone drone!! I suppose they have to make up new names to go with the new paint company policies of charging up to $150 a litre for some of these new fangled paints! What the hell have they discovered that’s so expensive to put in this stuff? I was under the impression that paint was a few litres of linseed oil, turps, some drying agents and a few ounces of pigments for colour…can I really be so out of touch?

BACK TO BASICS

So, why do we paint wooden boats? Or any other boat for that matter? The first part of that question is easy. Boats look much smarter and better if they shine and gleam a bit… it’s only human nature after all. The second part to that question is: We want to protect it. Ok, from what? Well, wood rots if you don’t paint it, right? – wrong! Wood left to its own devices does not rot. Wood only rots as a result of its environment. There are multiple cases of how, plain untreated wood can last for centuries as long as it is in the correct environment. There are basically only a few elements that start wood rotting. Biological attack from spores, fungi, temperature, high humidity or total absorption, physical attack from marine borers and crustaceans that allow ingress to all the other elements aforementioned.

Don’t let’s forget that polluted waters can degrade timber to the point where it will rot….we’ll add chemical attack to that list too. So, in view of all these very compelling reasons we protect our boat by painting it to coat it fully against these assaults.

PREPARATION OF TIMBER

The actual preparation of timber can cover a range of differing requirements. If your boat is a new build you won’t have to go through many of the preparatory stages that an older boat may have to go through. With some forms of boatbuilding where a boat has been built by a different method such as strip planking or cold moulding, we paint the boat as if it were a fibreglass boat, due to the fact that either layers of fibreglass cover the timber or that the timber has been coated with epoxy that does not allow conventional paints to adhere to it properly. However, if we wish to protect bare timber then we use a different tack. Timber in its bare natural state has millions of thin hollow tubes running through it, constructed of cellulose in its natural form. We have to seal these tubes to prevent the ingress of water into them. Therefore we seal and coat the timber first of all.

The first thing we do is to clean and remove any loose and flaking or damaged paint plus any dirt that remains on the hull – sounds easy if you say it quick but it must be done! If necessary (and most times it is) degrease the hull using a proprietary paint degreaser after removing all dust preferably with a vacuum cleaner. Don’t forget it won’t be absolutely necessary to get all the hull back to bare wood just dry, clean, grease and dust free.

FILLING AND IMPERFECTIONS

Obviously, not many timber craft are perfect on the outside. There are many blemishes, cracks, imperfections and splits both large and small to deal with by filling them and sanding them flush before priming the boat. It’s a bit of a chore but time spent here will reward you with a boat that will certainly look better plus have a longer life. Some folks fill these holes and imperfections in timber with epoxy filler but it is not a good idea. Sometime later, for example, when the boat has to undergo a repair, it will be the very devil of a job to remove the epoxy from a fastening hole. It’s best to use some kind of proper timber filler that dries hard and fast but is never that hard that it can’t be removed later on. For example, painter’s glazing compound is a fairly hard setting soft paste that can be quickly applied then sanded and painted satisfactorily. Carvel boats usually have their seams filled fair with a special seam compound AFTER the boat has been primed. Once the boat has been filled and faired smooth and all dust removed we are ready to put some actual paint on. Remember, the difference between a professional paint job and an amateur is the PREPARATION!

WOOD PRESERVATIVE

There are two schools of thought about treating bare timber with wood preservatives. I’ve heard stories that primers and paints don’t adhere to many of them. In my case, I have never personally had that happen to me, so I am generally in favour of using them. Nevertheless, I am convinced that in many cases where the paint refuses to stick to timber is because the wood has not properly dried out after application. There is a definite percentage of humidity level that every timber has (and most of them differ slightly) where paint of any description simply won’t stick. It can be up to fifteen per cent in some timbers. Above all, ensure that your timber is dry enough to allow any paint or filler to adhere to it. Remember too that salt deposits on timber will readily contain water and keep it damp…. if your boat was in salty water wash it off in fresh before commencing painting. When and only when, your timber preservative is dry the next stage is:

PRIMER

The first coat of primer to go onto your hull is metallic grey primer. It is a good primer to use because it is made up of millions of microscopic flat metal (aluminium) plates that lie on top of each other giving water a very hard time to pass though it…Pink primer for example, has circular molecules of substances therefore allowing water to ingress a lot quicker…fact! Grey primers also contain certain oils and most have anti-mould agents contained within (biocides to you and I) We put two coats of grey primer above the waterline and three, no less, below it.

SOME OTHER OBSERVATIONS ABOUT PRIMERS

There are a whole world of paint primers out there and confusion about their qualities are very common. For basic dry timbers, the grey metallic primers are good as previously explained. Also many oil-based primers from well-known companies are also very good and will do the job perfectly well. Hi-build primers however must be approached with caution and I must say that I have never personally got on too well with them. Most of them contain Titanium Dioxide (that’s talcum powder to us lot) and even when it is fully cured can absorb copious amounts of moisture that can prevent really good paint adhesion. To avoid this only paint hi-build primers on good clear dry days and avoid excessive atmospheric humidity levels. Then, as soon as is possible apply the topcoats to seal them in. Note too, that hi-build primers are a soft type of paint and can suffer badly from scuffing over stony or shingly beaches and even when launching from boat trailers. When sanding these primers remember that huge clouds of white dust are released so be aware of where you sand and wear appropriate safety masks.

TOPCOATS

Once again, there are many types to choose from. Let’s get the two- packs out of the way first. TWO-PACK POLYURETHANES have to be applied over a two-pack epoxy undercoat first of all. They have a fantastic finish and that’s fine but you must be absolutely sure that the timber underneath is not going to move because the paint cures so hard that it can and will crack (strip plankers and cold moulded boats are your best bet here…apart of course from glass boats). The primary reason is that timber constructed boats move or ‘work’ as it is known. You may well get away with it if your timber boat has been glassed from new….not glassed over later as a preventative method to stop leaks. Rarely boats treated thus dry out properly and are still susceptible to movement as the timber inside the glass either rots because it was wet or it dries out too much and shrinks. Also boats that have been chined properly, that is, strips of timber glued in between the planks instead of being caulked, stand a reasonable chance of not moving.

Ok, what else? One pack or single pack polyurethane paints can be a good choice for a topcoat…they are almost as glossy and as durable as the two-packs but not quite! They are however, less expensive and far easier to apply than the two-packs… there are a multitude of them out there, so a bit of research is required plus your own personal choice…I’m not going to get involved in a slanging match about which ones are the best! However, remember most major well-known paint manufacturer’s products are usually ok! It’s your call!

So next on my list are marine enamels. Once again, it pays to remember that anything with MARINE in front of it is usually expensive…a good place to avoid in this quest is the large hardware chain stores that sport one or two paints in this category and I’ve fallen for it myself before now. It’s the Name we are looking for!

Even with decent quality marine enamels some of the whites have been known to yellow with age and the way round this is to buy the off-white colours such as cream or buff. My last choice in Marine enamels proper, is a relative newcomer…a water-based enamel. I personally have never used any but I have heard some good reports and there has to be a few advantages with them, quick cleanup for one and you can even drink the thinners!

ASSORTED CHOICES

There are a few types of paint systems that are different to the abovementioned and as usual they probably will draw a lot of flack from those types that love writing to the editor for some reason or the other. Mainly I suspect, because something isn’t quite conventional. Each of the following paints has their different uses and attributes.

HOUSE PAINT ENAMELS

Over the years the quality of house paint enamels has been increasing dramatically to the point where many yachties I know paint their boats with it. It’s a bit softer (and definitely cheaper) than most single pack polyurethanes and some colours, mostly the darker hues, tend to fade earlier than others. However, the fact remains that they can be an excellent choice especially if you own a small boat and don’t mind repainting it every couple of years….cheap to buy, easy to apply!

WATER BASED ACRYLICS

A few years ago you wouldn’t have dreamed of painting your boat with acrylic paint….it would have peeled off in great strips. That does not apply today however. My own boat, The NICKY J has been painted using Wattyl’s Acrylic semi-gloss “CANE” and it is really amazing. I used gloss for the hull and semi-gloss for the decks over white epoxy primer single pack and it has been really good. Never once has it even looked like delaminating. I paint the boat once a year with a roller and it takes less than a day…and she’s forty two feet long! It is yet another choice!

Well there’s your main paint choices but I urge you to remember one thing…preparation is King… it will save you plenty of money in the long run, for sure.

HOW TO APPLY YOUR PAINT

There are of course, three main methods of applying your paints; Spraying, brushing and rollering. There’s another that many people use, a combination of the last two, rolling and tipping, we’ll deal with that one later.

Let’s take a look at spraying. There are several pre-requisites for a decent spray job. These usually are a decent workshop complete with suction fans and half decent ventilation using good spray gear (cheapo underpowered stuff just doesn’t cut the mustard) and most importantly, adequate and proper safety gear. There are always exceptions to the rule and there’s one chap who works in Edge’s boatyard outside in the weather and he does a fantastic job…imagine how much better he might be if he worked indoors!! You will also have to watch the weather, high humidity is not good and also where the overspray goes…not over anyone’s car as is so often the case! A good excess of paint is lost and wasted in the process. If you have a driving need for you boat to look like your car then sprayings for you! Oh yeah, it quick(ish) too!

Brushing by hand can yield incredible results if you are patient and also know what you are doing. I’ve seen boats that at first glance look like they have been sprayed only to find out that they were hand painted by brush…….Dust free atmosphere and bloody good brushes (I mean expensive) are an absolute must here.

Last of all, rollering especially the ‘roll and tip’ method. This requires two people working together as a team. One rolls the paint on thinly and the other follows closely with a decent brush and ‘tips’ out the bubbles left behind by the roller – unbelievably good finishes can be obtained by this method.

A word of warning, no matter which method you use. Don’t be tempted to retouch runs or sags in the paint or you will ruin the finish….wait until the paint has fully dried then deal with it! It’s tempting but paint always seems to gel quicker than you would think!

A SUMMARY

There are many facets to the successful painting of a boat. We can’t be good at all of them and you have to choose the method most suited to you own particular capabilities. A lot depends on the facilities that you have available at your disposal. Some people have the garden to work in others may have huge sheds and even access to a warehouse! I will say that a few basic rules apply to painting even the smallest boat. Often, too much, too clever or too sophisticated is often detrimental to what you are trying to achieve.

I have seen boats that cost twenty grand to paint and they were just really average…why? Wrong choice of painter, that’s why. If you are going to choose a painter it’s not a crime to ask him to show you some examples of his work. If he’s any good there should be plenty…there are plenty of chancers and cowboys about, rest assured. All boats, every single one of them will need retouching or even a repaint within years. Just how long you get for your money is the trick. Unless you put your freshly painted boat in a museum or garage and lock it away you can bet that from day one, it will collect nicks, dings, scratches and scars, it’s inevitable. Beware the painter who tells you, ‘yes it will be ten grand, but it’ll outlast you and me’. The need for repainting is directly proportional to how badly the boat is treated over the years. The only way of keeping your boat pristine and perfect is never to actually put it in that dirty old water once it’s done! Be realistic about your own abilities and your expectations. Simple can be better in many cases.

A SIMPLE FORMULA FOR CALCULATING HOW MUCH PAINT YOU NEED (FOR ONE COAT)

This is interesting if not exactly exact! But it gets very close indeed. This is applicable to brushing and rolling only NOT spraying. There’s a different formula for that and I don’t know it!

THE FORMULA

ONE COAT = The boat’s length overall x the beam x 0.85

Divided by square feet covered per litre listed on the paint can instructions.

If you can’t work it out the paint manufacturer will tell you if you ring the company hotline.

Over the years, wooden boats have survived the elements in spite of very crude and primitive forms of paint. Many early vessels were simply daubed in pitch, bitumen, turps and beeswax. An early Thames barge had survived for over a hundred years in perfect condition as she was originally used as a bitumen tanker!! The dark brown shiny finish was the most perfect example of preserved wood that I have ever seen. One of the most interesting boats I ever saw was painted with fence paint…the owner reckoned he’d only ever painted it once in thirty years! Another old boat builder I knew once told me the secret of painting a wooden boat was to paint it with as many coats of paint that you could afford!

A Muslim wedding is a day of complete celebration for the bride, groom, their family and friends. Thus, it is an occasion for one and all to celebrate. There is now written rule of what should be worn and what should not be worn to a Muslim wedding. A lot depends on which part of the world you live in, and the level of rigidity followed by the Muslims there.

In a Muslim wedding, it is the most important day for the bride and groom. If you are close to them and know what color they are wearing, avoiding those colors is a must. This will make the bride and groom standout and make their special day a little bit more special for them.

Muslims have a lot of life in their weddings. The weddings are calm and serene yet there is a lot of fun and frolic too. Wearing white is the tradition in some areas but white is also the funeral shade in some areas. So, if you are in a doubt avoid white. Black is considered as a funeral color in some parts like so check out the local customs, before deciding on the color. Any other color apart from this is sure to bring you to the same fun mood that they are in.

Bright green and pinks are a favorite in Muslim weddings. You have the liberty to make a style statement here. The only thing you must keep in mind is that the dress should be modest. Oranges and yellows, red and maroons or if you want to wear all rainbow colors, the choice is yours. The dress should cover you arms and feet. Any thing, which is flowy, is surely bound to make you feel comfortable there.

As a man, wearing a simple suit or a tux to a Muslim wedding is considered okay. You won’t be in the wrong dress, but if you want to merge with the crowd, you better ask someone in the family. They will be able to tell you what exactly their traditional dress is so that you can wear one. Wearing gold and black are pretty common with Muslim men. Black may cause you doubts but with gold you can be rest assured, you are sure to look one in the family. Wearing a Sherwani is another way to feel at home in the crowd.

Apart from the color, a must is to look after your accessories. Avoid taking something which is over the top. Wear your make up – a dark shade of lipstick will be preferable. Carry a small handbag or a purse. Wearing jewels on your forehead or temples will surely give you that Muslim feel.

If you have no one to help you, there are Muslim designers whom you can contact. They will be able to tell you about colors and you can find great Muslim wedding attires with them. No designers close by, just walk up to your computer and search online. You can find anything and everything you want on Muslim weddings.

1. What is a condo hotel or condotel?

Think of a condo hotel (also sometimes called a condotel or hotel condo) as buying a condominium, although one that is part of a four-star caliber hotel. Therefore, as an owner, when you are on vacation, you’ll get the benefit of more four-star services and amenities than you’d get in a typical condominium.

2. What types of services and amenities are found in condo hotels?

If you can imagine the niceties you’d find in an upscale hotel, then you can picture a condo hotel. Among the features are often resort-style pools, full-service spas, state-of-the-art fitness centers, fine dining restaurants, concierge services and room service.

In some locations, like Las Vegas, you’ll find condo hotels with their own casinos, retail areas, and entertainment venues. In places like Orlando, you’ll find condo hotels with their own water parks and convention facilities.

3. What is the difference between a condo hotel and a traditional condominium?

The big difference between a hotel and a condo hotel is that a hotel typically has one owner, either individual or corporate, but a condo hotel is sold off unit by unit. Therefore, a 300-room condo hotel could have as many as 300 unit owners.

4. Is it evident to hotel guests whether they’re staying in a condo hotel or a traditional hotel?

A hotel guest will likely never know that the hotel has multiple owners because the property is operated just like a traditional hotel and often under the management of a well-known hotel company like Hilton, Hyatt, Starwood, Trump or W. Also, each of the individual condo hotel units will look identical in design and décor to every other, just as they would in a traditional hotel.

5. Who typically buys condo hotels?

They’re primarily sold to people who want a vacation home but do not want to deal with the hassles typically associated with second home ownership such as maintaining the property or finding renters in the off season.

6. What is the demographic of the typical condo hotel buyer?

The spectrum of condo hotel buyers is pretty broad. There are families that want a second home in a vacation destination. There are baby boomers who are at or nearing retirement and want somewhere they can “winter.” There are also plenty of investors who purchase a condo hotel unit with little intention of ever using it; they’re in it for the potential appreciation of the real estate.

7. Can you live in a condo hotel?

Condo hotels are not typically offered as primary residences. In fact, many of them limit the unit owner’s usage of the condo hotel unit (typically 30-60 days per year) because the unit is expected and needed in the hotel’s nightly rental program where it can be offered to guests and generate revenue.

8. Who gets the money when your condo hotel is rented out?

The hotel management company splits the rental revenue with the individual condo hotel owner. While the exact percentages vary from property to property, the typical rental split is in the 50%-50% range.

9. Who finds hotel guests and then cleans and maintains the condo hotel units?

The hotel management company markets the property and books hotel guests. It also maintains the unit and ensures the smooth operation of all of the hotel’s services and amenities.

10. What are the advantages / disadvantages of purchasing a condotel over purchasing typical rental properties?

Advantages include:

· Hassle-free ownership; no landlord issues

· Rental revenue to offset some or maybe all ownership expenses

· A fantastic vacation home available for use whenever you want

· A real estate investment at a time when other investments may seem less attractive

· Strong likelihood of appreciation

· Pride of ownership –“I own a piece of a Trump”

Disadvantages include:

· Annual cash flow could be equal to or less than annual ownership costs

· Pets are usually not welcome.

· An owner’s condo hotel unit may be rented when the owner wants to it, so advance reservations are required to guarantee availability.

· The condo hotel unit is subject to the same dips in the market that affect all hotels in the competitive market set: hurricanes, terrorist threats, warm winters up north, price of gas, etc., all of which can affect a unit’s occupancy rate and the amount of revenue it generates.

11. Are condo hotel units difficult to finance?

Not at all, but they do take 20% down typically, whereas condos can be purchased with less cash down. It’s also important to make sure you use a mortgage broker who has had success in getting condo hotel financing deals done. Many banks still do not do them, but more and more are getting involved as condo hotels become more widely available.

12. How long have condo hotels been around and where are they located?

Condo hotels have been around for several decades, but the huge surge of four-star and five-star condo hotels that have been making their way across the country, started around year 2000 in the Miami area. The Miami-Fort Lauderdale area still has the most condo hotels, but areas like Orlando and Las Vegas are developing condo hotel properties at an even faster rate and will likely surpass South Florida soon. Other up-and-coming areas are places like the Bahamas, Panama, Dominican Republic, Mexico, Canada and Dubai.

13. How much do condo hotel units cost?

That’s like asking how much a car costs. There are different quality condo hotels. Some require greater amounts of money than others, obviously.

There are inexpensive condo hotels out there for as little as $100,000. These are typically found in properties that have converted their use from an existing hotel. They are hotel room-sized, lack kitchen facilities, luxury franchises, and other first-class amenities.

Then there are the four-star or greater properties that may start in the $300,000 to $400,000 range, but can go all the way up to $800,000 just for a studio unit. One- and two-bedroom units cost substantially more than a studio. Of course, the studios do come fully furnished and finished, and will be significantly larger in size than a typical hotel room, and may attract guests because of its name like St. Regis, Ritz or W.

14. What are typical maintenance costs?

On average about $1.00 to $1.50 per sq. ft., but the range can exceed $2.00 sq. ft. in the most luxurious properties.

15. Do you buy condo hotel units after they have been built, or can you purchase condo hotels in pre-construction?

Unless you are in a hurry to get started vacationing or you need to complete a 1031 exchange, it’s best to buy condo hotels in pre-construction as early as possible. That’s when prices are lowest and unit selection is greatest. You will likely wait two years or longer before closing on and taking possession of your condo hotel unit, but you will have locked in the price and will get the benefit of maximum appreciation.

16. Is there anything else investors should want to know about condotels?

There is more to buying this type of real estate than the old phrase, “location, location, location.” While most condo hotels are located in desirable resort and business area locations, what is most important is a good franchise with a strong reservation system.

Also, do not be fooled by an aggressive rental split. One way or the other, the developer of the property will have to staff, maintain and operate the hotel and its services like the restaurants, bars, spas and pools from his share of the proceeds. If he’s giving you a very favorable share of the rental, he’s also more likely to be charging you a higher monthly maintenance fee. Of course, this goes both ways. If the maintenance split that is offered is closer to 50-50, then your maintenance should be more reasonable too.

17. Any suggestions to investors in choosing which condo hotel to buy?

Get good advice. That means you don’t want to rely only on the pitch provided by an onsite salesperson at a condo hotel. You want to talk with a broker who specializes in condo hotels and who knows and understands the entire condo hotel market, not just the facts pertaining to a single property. He or she will listen to your wants and needs and then offer recommendations as to which properties best match your requirements. You’ll have an opportunity to comparison shop and consider the pros and cons of each available property.

A good broker can be the difference between your buying a condo hotel that will be problematic and not live up to your expectations or one that will provide you with years of great vacations, good annual revenue and a substantial profit when you sell.

18. Does it cost more to use a real estate broker to purchase a condo hotel than buying a unit on one’s own?

No. With new condo hotel properties, the prices are always set by the developer and are exactly the same whether you buy directly from an onsite salesperson at the property or using a broker.

The broker’s commission is always paid by the developer and is already built into the price regardless of whether an outside broker participates in the sale or not. Since a broker’s representation is free to buyers, it does make sense to enlist their aid and get the benefit of their advice before making a purchase.

19. How can prospective buyers find a good condo hotel broker?

Ask friends for broker recommendations or search online for “condo hotel broker.” Visit condo hotel broker websites and see if the information they provide seems comprehensive and unbiased. If their website seems to focus on selling homes or office space, and the condo hotel information appears to be an afterthought, steer clear. Your best bet is to work with a condo hotel broker who specializes.

20. How can buyers learn about new condo hotel properties coming on the market?

Condo hotel brokers can be good information sources as they often learn about properties prior to their release to the general public. Another option is for them to subscribe to a condo hotel newsletter such as the one we publish called Condo Hotel Property Alert. We offer it for free on our website http://www.CondoHotelCenter.com and it features a different condo hotel property coming on the market each edition.

It is crucial for models to clarify and know what they’re signing up for as there are many times where models blatantly read the terms and conditions before signing them, then later realize that they’re unsatisfied with how they’re being managed by their agencies.

First of all, always bear in mind that when you’re in the midst of interview or signing a contract you’re obliged to ask questions. Note that it is not just an interview for you but also to interview them and know the process and terms. Also, it is not wrong to ask your agent to repeat his/her sentence as you want to understand it crystal clear. To ensure that will never happen to you and your friends here is a guide on the list of things and questions you need to clarify before signing.

1. Duration of the modeling contract

• Know how long does the contract last.
• Know your contract and termination clauses
• Is it auto renewable or manual?
• Under what circumstances will you only be allowed to terminate your contract?
• If wish to terminate contract, how’s the process?
• How many days before hand must you notify them your wish to terminate contract?

2. Commission rates and payments

• How many percent will the agency minus out from the model’s earnings?
• How’s the expenses and tax like?
• How long will the agency take to hand out your pay?

3. Modeling contract exclusivity

• What kind of contract is there available?
• What kind of contract are you being offered?
• What are the exclusive terms?

4. Check what happens if the agency advances you and what if you don’t execute the job well enough.
5. If you an agency from overseas is offering you a contract, kindly ask for a softcopy so you could read the terms and conditions. If you’re willing to sign, ask them if they will pay for your expenses (flight and stay) there?​
6. Who are their clients?

• By knowing who their clients are, you’ll be able to get a rough idea on where the agency stands in the market.

7. What kinds of jobs does the agency book for their models?

• Know the way they manage and organize jobs for their models
• Ask for a rough estimation how much are the rates for different jobs

If large reputable agencies are offering you contracts, it should be fine as they’ve done it thousands of times but still do read the agreement carefully. It is always good to know what the agency offers you and always being a step ahead. If you’re new and a boutique agency offers you, ensure that you read the agreement at least 2 times, ask questions and don’t be shy because it is going to affect your career. Also you don’t want to be suffering for the next few years of your life because of your own recklessness. If you so happen to come across anything skeptical, don’t think twice nor afraid to step up and walk out the door. So remember these few important steps before signing anything – Listen. Ask. Clarify.

The game of bowling is played by rolling a ball along a bowling lane towards a set of ten pins, with the objective of knocking down as many pins as possible to score the most points. Bowling lanes are constructed under tight requirements to maintain their uniformity among all lanes.

There are four parts to a bowling lane. The approach leads up to the foul line at the beginning of the bowling lane. The foul line marks the end of the approach and the beginning of the lane. The lane is the majority of the planks where the ball is released and travels towards the pins. The final part of the bowling lane is the pin deck where the ten bowling pins are set. Bowling lanes were originally constructed of planks of hard maple and pine wood. However, lanes are now constructed of approved synthetic materials similar to wood. In total, the standard bowling lane is 41 to 42 inches in width and 77 feet, 10 3/16 inches in length.

The approach is a 15-foot starting point where the bowler takes aim and begins their movement forward towards the bowling lane. Two sets of approach dots assist bowlers in aligning themselves to the pins for proper aim.

The foul line is between 3/8 and 1 inch in width. This indicates the end of the approach and the beginning of the bowling lane. Players are not allowed to cross this mark; if they do, they are awarded no points in their bowl. The foul line must stretch the entire width of the lane at a minimum.

The bowling lane comprises 60-feet from the foul line to the center point of the head pin, or first pin. The bowling lane is regularly conditioned with an approved oil to reduce the friction and wear of the boards caused by the constant traffic and impact of bowling balls. Because oil is a slick substance, this causes less friction between the ball and the lane, and therefore minimizes any motion from the ball due to the spin the bowler applies to their delivery. There are several patterns by which to condition a lane, but the oil used must be the same from edge to edge of the lane. The oil is generally applied beginning at the foul line and continuing along the lane until a point several feet before the pin deck. This allows for additional friction where no oil is present to increase ball movement into the pins. The length of the bowling lane is bordered on both sides by a 9 1/4 inch gutter that catches balls that do not stay on the lane.

The pin deck is the final 2 feet, 10 3/16 inches of the bowling lane. This is the section of the lane where the pins are set equidistant from each other in equilateral triangle formations. Each pin is 12 inches apart from the next, measuring from center to center of each pin.

Maintaining uniformity from one bowling lane to the next is extremely important in order to allow a level playing field for all bowlers. Although the oil on the lanes can be pushed around the lane by rolling bowling balls, these guidelines give bowlers the confidence that each bowling lane they play on will offer the same consistency as the next.

There is no denying stroke survivors have a lot to deal with as they go through the rehabilitation process and learn to live with physical limitations. Unfortunately, far too many people treat having a stroke as a sign they can no longer enjoy physical activities. For stroke survivor’s who love to play golf, those so-called physical limitations aren’t as pronounced as one would imagine.

Playing Golf Again is a Real Possibility

Except in the worst of cases, the only thing that keeps most stroke survivors from getting back onto the golf course is the assumption they can’t do it. That assumption is wrong in so many ways. Will their golf game be as proficient as it was before the stroke? Probably not, but everything in life changes after medical trauma. The reality is golf courses aren’t going anywhere and any golfer who wants to golf belongs on the golf course. That includes stoke victims who love the game.

It only takes three things to make it happen. First, the person affected by the stroke has to believe they can do it. Second, they need to accept certain limitations and learn to play within themselves. Finally, the stroke victim needs to minimize expectations and maximize the joy that comes from being out on a golf course instead of laying in a bed feeling disabled.

The Benefits of Golfing for Stroke Survivors

The benefits of being able to return to the golf course will touch almost every aspect of the stroke survivor’s being. From a physical standpoint, they get the health benefits of fresh air and exercise. Doctor’s often encourage stroke victims to exercise their muscles and get the heart beating again. The walking and swinging of a club help to move all the right muscles and bring balance and coordination back.

As far as mental and emotional issues are concerned, there is nothing that revitalizes the spirit and soul more than overcoming impossible odds to achieve something important. If a golfer loves to golf, then learning to do it again under a different set of circumstances is an accomplishment that should bring a great sense of pride to a disabled golfer. In many cases, depression is actually a bigger threat to one’s well-being than another stroke. By going out there on the golf course and proving they are still a player, the afflicted individual won’t feel so afflicted anymore.

Finally, there is great value is participating in a social activity for a stroke survivor who has been hospitalized and/or confined to the home for a period of time. The chance to get out among friends and golfing buddies serves to make the person feel they are still a part of life here on this planet.

Exercises Designed to Make Golfing Easier for the Stroke Victim

While contemplating that first post-stroke round of golf, there are several exercises that can help reestablish stamina, balance and coordination. Walking is a must. Even cart riders will log distance during a round of golf. By getting out each day for a walk, it will improve endurance on the golf course. For balance and coordination, doctors recommend sitting on a stability ball but for those affected by stroke, a physical therapist should be close by unless one has progressed. By doing this exercise for just a few minutes everyday, one’s balance and ability to control their arms and legs will show marked improvement over time. A more sensible exercise at home would involve use of a chair. While the person affected by the stroke stands in a corner of a room, they hold on the back of the chair and practice moving hips forward and back and from side to side. This is also beneficial for strengthening the weakened side. If the survivor also has dropfoot which many stroke victims experience, a brace recommended by the persons doctor for safety. It can help immensely as even if a cart is used, as the walking can tire out the weakened leg quickly at times.

Making Golf Easier for Stroke Survivors

The golfing world is well-aware that some stroke victims love the game of golf. With that in mind, there are plenty of custom equipment designers who are more than happy to help design golf equipment that compliments a golfer’s disabilities. Another way golf is made easier for stroke victims is the process of making them feel normal. Disabled golfers are often reluctant to play golf with healthy people for fear of slowing the group down. First of all, golf is a game of courtesy and golfers tend to be very patient with those who might not be as skilled as the others in the group. That said, there are many golf courses that sponsor groups that have disabilities. By playing golf with other disabled golfers, the individual doesn’t feel it necessary to perform, only to enjoy the outing.

Golf is a great sport and activity. If you or someone you know has suffered a stroke and would still love to hit the links, by all means make it happen. With reasonable expectations, that first round of golf will feel like a rebirth of sorts, prompting the stroke victim to stop feeling like a victim and more as a winning survivor.

A dynamic industry is a growing industry. The features of a dynamic industry are indicators that enable us to know that the industry is growing by their mere presence. The Plateau music industry is a paradox as it is young and old at the same time. It is old in the sense that it has recorded niggard growth despite the relatively long period during which it has been alive.

A growing industry should have people with big dreams and are determined to actualize the dreams by following the narrow path, which inevitably leads to righteousness. It appears that 70% of our artistes prefer the speed lane even when it is obvious that speed kills. In a growing industry the artistes should be patient to learn how to write good songs and make good instrumentation by working with good instrumentalists or good studio engineers. In that wise a growing industry should also have good instrumentalists or studios engineers.

One important characteristic of a growing industry is the presence of analysts/critics. These are those who look at the various components of a piece of music and comment on them. The commentaries can be positive or negative. In a growing industry the person criticized should also be ready to tolerate the criticism in-as-much, as the criticism must be constructive. Constructive criticism can sometimes take the form of reviews. Music review is a hallmark of an industry that is growing.

For one to be a good music analyst he himself must have enough knowledge of the business to enable him succeed. Some have the knowledge but choose not to play. Others have the knowledge and are playing successfully. Others have played successfully and have taken a bow. It is however rare to get a performing musician to criticize the works of his colleagues. Hence the other two are the only ones in a good position to make both positive and negative commentaries about the works of artistes.

In Jos, however, it is difficult to point to a single person that can be referred to as a music showbiz commentator especially in the area of music. Part of the reasons are that certain people don’t enjoy giving unsolicited commentaries or are afraid that certain persons may take it personal following such comments on their projects. Hence tolerance of criticism is also a feature of a dynamic industry as it leads to improvements.

But the seeming non-existence of music analysts in our community could also be due to the absence of a medium of expression. In developed countries there are TV and radio stations dedicated to music. There could also be magazines, newspaper columns or the whole print medium wholly dedicated to the cause. Here we have music shows on radio and TV that do not, however, have provisions for music analysis. This could be because it did not occur to the presenter to make provisions for such. If the community shows it is craving for such, it definitely, will occur to one or two presenters to introduce them in their shows.

This is not to say that the music industry is not growing at all but the chameleon speed is giving a lot of cause for concern. The presence of such crucial rallying points will no doubt increase the momentum of the industry so that we can begin to look beyond Jeremiah Gyang and P-Square.

You see them all the time: Light trucks, Sport Utility Vehicles, Jeeps, and more, coasting down the highway, sitting atop towering truck suspension lift kits and sporting a set of tires so big that a person could live in them. If you’re the curious type looking to lift up your own rig, a more important question than “How do I get my ride to do that” is “Why should my ride do that?”

There are several reasons why people might customize their vehicles with suspension lift kits, as well as quite a bit to know before you get started. If you’re a seasoned veteran who has conquered the most vicious terrains and knows your vehicle better than your own mother, there probably isn’t much for you to learn here. On the other hand, if you’re just getting started and want to familiarize yourself with the basics, read on.

Why should I lift my ride?

Glad you asked. Equipping vehicles with a suspension lift kits involves much more than buying the sexiest looking truck lift kit and then dropping your ride off at the local mechanic. Actually, chances are good that if that’s all you plan to do, lifting your ride might not be right for you in the first place. Installing truck suspension lift kits requires some hard work, a bit of technical savvy and consistent upkeep and attention to your vehicle’s components.

The first determination you need to make when considering suspension lift kits is what you want to do with it. There are essentially two main purposes for installing truck lift kits: style or function. Although the two are somewhat interrelated, it’s still important to consider which purpose you most wish to pursue, as it will assist you in making the correct modifications to your vehicle.

Style:

Let’s face it: Transforming a vehicle into a style statement has been a popular hobby ever since the advent of tailfins and flame decals. As much as we all might chuckle at a hybrid hatchback sitting on 18″ wheels, or the family sedan with a wing that resembles the Seattle Space Needle more than a spoiler, we also find our own vehicles having fuzzy dice hanging from the mirror, or a bobbling hula dancer statuette on the dash. As far as style is concerned, adding truck lift kits makes more of an impression than anything else you can do to your ride. Heads turn instantly at the sight of a lifted rig with massive tires that appear to be sprouting fangs and an exhaust system that scares stray puppies into hiding.

When it comes to adding suspension lift kits to make a style statement, looking good is the easy part. Sometimes it’s easy to overlook general, everyday performance in the midst of decking out a ride. For this reason, choosing the right suspension lift kit with attention to comfort, reliability, durability, safety, and not to mention price, should be given just as much consideration as those precious inches you want to add.

Performance:

So you’ve made the jump into tuning your rig for the off-road world, and you’re ready to take the plunge to invest in one of many truck lift kits. But before diving headfirst into a custom truck lift kit and gigantic tires, there are a number of issues to address to ensure a correct setup. The first step is to ask yourself what you will be doing the most, whether it’s slow-speed rock crawling, high-speed desert racing, general purpose 4 wheeling, mud racing, or long distance open country treks. From there, you can narrow down what you need to do in order to customize your vehicle to suit your needs.

Whether you’re just starting out, or you’re the experienced professional, tuning your rig for optimum off-road performance is an expansive hobby with numerous factors to be wary of. The possibilities are limitless, which can sometimes make it hard to determine exactly which suspension lift kits are ideal for what you want.

Where do I begin?

As if determining which suspension lift kits to purchase weren’t complicated enough, installing truck lift kits can alter other components in your vehicle, sometimes causing unforeseen issues that could affect performance or be potentially detrimental to the vehicle itself. For example, drive shaft length, steering geometry, brake lines, highway performance and handling, gear ratios, and overall weight are just a few of the factors that could potentially be impacted by adding truck suspension lift kits.

Finding ample resources to determine what products you need can be difficult. Speaking with a mechanic can provide some insight. Reading factory service manuals, off-road magazines, internet message boards, manufacturer’s guides, and a number of other resources can help as well. But by far the most useful way to determine what truck lift kits are right for you and your vehicle is to consult an experienced and knowledgeable person who has a vehicle similar to yours and uses it in the manner similar to what you want to do. Not only can such a person suggest the correct products, but also likely has experience with installation tips and general drivability.

In the meantime, here are some of the basic elements of suspension lift kits for you to keep in mind as you plan your modifications.

What does a Suspension Lift Kit do?

1. Clearance

   For starters, one of the foremost reasons for installing truck suspension lift kits is to raise the height of your ride off the ground to enable steeper ascent or descent off-road, and higher ground clearance. In general, it makes sense that when driving over boulders, slogging through mud, coasting across the desert, or even just making your way through the occasional forest trail, higher clearance facilitates negotiating certain obstacles. This can often be a tricky bit of artistry to manage, as higher clearance also raises your vehicle’s center of gravity, which can reduce handling.

2. Larger Tire Fitment

   The general consensus suggests that larger tires equate to more traction, right? Well, not entirely. While larger tires may provide some improvement to traction in off-road conditions, there are other ways to improve a vehicle’s traction that are far more efficient than simply bulking up the rubber. Aside from the obvious stylistic discretion, the main reasons for adding larger tires are for higher vehicle clearance for improved performance in mud, deep snow, rocks, and deeply rutted trails. Certain tires designed specifically for off-road conditions can improve traction depending on the circumstances, but the added clearance is the most immediate and direct benefit of larger tires.

Factors to Consider with Truck Suspension Lift Kits:

• Installation: Many manufacturers offer manuals for installing truck lift kits onto certain vehicles; however, some installations are quite intricate, requiring some welding or cutting in order to add some necessary components. In this case, having a trusted mechanic or a few knowledgeable friends is the best resolution.
• Additional Modifications: Upgrading to truck lift kits with taller tires also means that a number of components may require part upgrades or some tuning to compensate. For instance, a truck’s engine is tuned at specific gear ratios to propel the vehicle. When adding taller tires, the gear ratios must be tweaked accordingly, since the engine has to spin much larger, heavier tires. Again, consult with more experienced individuals for further insight.
• Highway Performance: Larger, wider tires can sometimes result in instability on roads or a noisy, uncomfortable ride, particularly at high speeds. Also, more aggressive off-road tires tend to wear faster on the highway, and traction might not be as great as you would expect on wet roads. In this sense, larger tires can sometimes be a gamble without any direction from an experienced off-road veteran.
• Weight: larger tires are heavier, which can put a lot of strain on your suspension, particularly if it’s a stock suspension. Trusted, durable suspension components and lighter aluminum wheels can sometimes help to reduce the strain.
• Handling: Adding truck suspension lift kits will undoubtedly raise the vehicle’s center of gravity, resulting in less stable turns. This is a common issue when installing truck lift kits, but is mostly just a matter of becoming accustomed to a vehicle’s change in performance.
• Legality: Some suspension lift kits are such a serious change in your suspension system that it may not be legal. Check the suspension regulations within your country, state, or province to be sure.
• A Few Useful Accessories: Before installing a lift kit, it’s a good idea to first examine if any components will be affected by your vehicle’s new height. Here are a few useful accessories that may need to be upgraded:
• Brake Upgrades: Stock brakes can’t always accommodate larger tires, or will wear easily due to the added strain.
• Drivetrain and Differential: Axles, gears, differential covers, lockers and more ensure that your drivetrain is up to par with your suspension.
• Replacement Parts: Longer Control Arms and Track Bars to compensate for the additional height of your rig.
• Shocks: For those taller lifts, longer shocks will ensure the smoothest performance both on and off road.
• Other Parts: Steering linkage, slip yoke, drive shaft length, u-joint angle, and brake lines are all worthy of consideration before installing suspension lift kits.

Installing Suspension Lift Kits:

When it comes time to install a lift kit, there are two ways possible ways to go about it: install it yourself, or have a professional do the job. Naturally, each has its advantages and disadvantages, and when it comes to your rig, attention to detail is crucial. A general rule to follow is that even if you know you want a large lift, it’s best to start with a small lift and work your way up. This allows you to work out any kinks and hindrances along the way to make sure your kit works right.

1. Do-It-Yourself

   Even if you’re not technically inclined, taking the time to learn the inner mechanics of your vehicle is a valuable experience that can save you time and money. An intimate knowledge of your rig can also allow you to make your own modifications to your vehicle if the need arises. There are numerous resources available that can usually guide you through the majority of the process; however, one must keep in mind that it’s a lot to take in, and tweaking the intricate components of your vehicle is no small matter. It’s always a good idea to have a second set of hands or an experienced individual assisting you.

   On the downside, even with the increasing availability of bolt-on kits, installing suspension lift kits is no easy task, particularly if you’re a beginner. Additionally, certain instructions or resources can sometimes be misleading or based upon the personal preferences of individual gearheads. Often times, after installing a lift kit you’ll find yourself spending hours tweaking the other components of your vehicle to get them back to spec. That’s a whole lot to take on, particularly if you’re inexperienced.

2. Mechanic

   A licensed professional installing your lift kit is typically the best way to ensure that suspension lift kits are installed correctly, so long as you’re willing to pay the labor charges. A professional can perfectly tune your vehicle to your liking and see to it that all components are working as they should, all within a fraction of the time it would take even the most experienced gearheads to install it themselves.

   On the other hand, as is the case with regard to any mechanic, it might be difficult to find one you can trust to install the kit properly while not overcharging you for any unnecessary parts. Also, if you’re not a gearhead, anytime there’s a functional deficiency or your vehicle needs minor tweaking, you have no choice but to return to the mechanic for service.

Suspension Lift Sizes:

Small: A small lift consists of 1.5 or fewer inches, and will grant you a little more clearance and room to run slightly larger tires. The most common way to gain a small lift is by using coil spacers in front and long shackles in the rear.

• Advantages/Disadvantages: Small lifts are inexpensive and easy to install with very few complications.

Medium: A medium lift is roughly 2″ of lift, and is a good choice for those looking for the best tire clearance, but aren’t planning on doing any off-roading. Common medium-sized lifts use spacer and add-a-leaf lifts, and sometimes come with new shocks.

• Advantages/Disadvantages: You’ll notice changes in handling and performance: some good, some bad. You’ll also need strong rear springs, and if you plan to use an add-a-leaf kit, later modification for more lift may be difficult, since add-a-leafs are designed to lift stock springs.

Large: The largest lifts consist of 3 to 4″ or more for an aggressive look and the best off-road performance. A common large lift setup consists of new front coils and add-a-leafs in the rear, plus some combination of new front coils and new rear springs. These kits often include a matching set of shocks.

• Advantages/Disadvantages: Large lifts are obviously the most expensive, and more complications are expected than with smaller lifts. On-road performance will also be affected, sometimes dramatically. But a large lift will transform your rig into an intimidating off-road machine that will stand out among a crowd.

Types of Suspension Lift Kits:

Spring Over Axle (SPOA):

SPOA suspension lift kits are most popular among serious rock crawlers looking for the utmost articulation (up and down wheel travel). These truck lift kits keep the tires on the ground for maximum traction, while correctly lifted springs lifts everything out of harm’s way, including the springs.

Shackle Reverse (S/R) Suspension Lift Kits:

S/R truck lift kits are designed to provide a smooth ride upon mild terrain such as forest roads, desert driving, and scenic trails; however, high-speed driving on highways is not recommended.

Coil Suspension Lift Kits:

The choice of many of the world’s best-riding 4 wheel drive vehicles, Coil Suspension Lift Kits offer unrivaled ride quality and cheaper springs, but installation sometimes requires some welding. The end result, however, is a suspension lift kit that provides excellent articulation on the trail, and a comfortable ride you have to feel to believe.

Lifted Spring Suspension Lift Kits:

The most commonly used type of truck lift kits in the world, Lifted Spring systems are easier to install, and an excellent choice for first-time lifters in the off-road world. These truck lift kits allow you to run larger tires for additional clearance, while producing control on the highway.

Shackle Suspension Lift Kits:

As probably the most affordable way to add inches to your rig, Shackle Suspension Lift Kits are primarily for the truck enthusiast looking to add larger tires, yet are not intending to do much hardcore off-roading. Moderation is recommended with these truck lift kits, as Shackle systems are known to affect steering and sway control.

After giving a deworming treatment to your kitty, she gets worm free, but your pooch now has them. If there is still a part of the treatment left you can be tempted to just give it to your tyke. But that works all the time. Although you may find that the ingredients of dog and cat deworming treatments are mostly the same. Active ingredients like praziquantel are currently available under different brand names. They can be found in both dogs and cats deworming treatment.

Just because the active ingredient is the same does not mean that it is a good idea to give your canine your feline’s deworming treatment or vice versa. The difference is in the amounts of ingredients utilized. The dosing amount may also vary contingent on the size of the pet.

There are a wide array of preventative treatments available for heartworms for dogs and cats. But while dogs can be treated with the aid of an injection once they are infected, cats cannot be treated the same way if they get heartworm. There are certain cases, where the treatment that is effective on dogs can be poisonous for cats. So, it is always the better option to let your veterinarian suggest worming treatments for your dog and cat rather than treating them yourself. Worming treatments for kitties is available but heartworm treatment is a different ball game altogether. Remember, prevention is better than cure. The treatment not only is very tedious but also quite expensive.

It is also very important to understand that there are different worms that can affect your dog and cat. So, never give one treatment that is specifically for treating a particular worm for another worm. For example; if your kitty has roundworms and your dog has tapeworm, never give the treatment that works to eradicate roundworms to treat tapeworms. Hence, before getting a deworming treatment, consult with your veterinarian who would determine the type of worm that has affected your pet and then provide appropriate treatment and advice on dosage amounts.

The best possible way to counter the worm problem in dogs and cats is by taking preventative measures to keep them from getting any type of worms in the first place. Remember, kittens and puppies are born with worms. They get it from their mothers when they nurse. That is the reason routine veterinary puppy and kitten care includes worm treatment. After a year, ask your veterinarian to test your pet’s stool to ensure that there is no presence of worms. Also ensure that they do not eat birds, mice or other animals that could be carrying worms. Also get rid of fleas because that is the first big step to prevent worms in dogs and cats.