The princess cut diamond was originally developed in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. Considered somewhat unusual at the time, it has become one of the more popular diamond cuts available today. A brilliant style, with sharp, pointed uncut corners, it is typically square in shape.
In recent years, the princess style of cut has equaled the popularity of the traditional round cut for use in marriage ring sets. Because the princess is an upside down pyramid, this shape tends to be the smallest in appearance relative to its carat size. It is most often set as a center gem in three stone engagement rings, with the smaller diamonds set on either side to increase the appearance of size of the center stone.
With the corners of the princess style cut of diamond being at the outer edges of the rough diamond crystal, there are often inclusions or extra facets. However they are not usually noticed because they are hidden by the “v” shaped prongs of the ring itself. These unseen irregularities can make the princess cut diamond more vulnerable to cracking or breakage. For this reason care must be taken when setting a princess cut diamond so that chipping and cracking do not occur.
The princess diamond style is very popular with diamond cutters for its high yield from a rough cut. In laymen’s terms, there is less to cut away to achieve the princess cut so more of the diamond weight and volume is maintained during the cutting process. This makes the princess cut diamond less expensive than the more traditional round cut.
Unlike the round cut, the princess has no industry standard for what an ideal cut is. Princess diamonds are cut to fit the shape of the rough, so most cutters will cut the diamond in proportion to the rough cut that they’re dealing with. There is an ongoing debate as to the table size of the princess cut diamond. Some cutters prefer to keep a smaller table size while others prefer to go with what the rough naturally shows. Again, with no industry standard as to the ideal cut, much of it is up to interpretation and personal preference by the individual cutter.
For a less expensive but equally brilliant diamond, the princess offers a more affordable and pleasing alternative to other diamond styles. Set as a centerpiece for wedding ring sets, the princess can give an otherwise plain setting a luxurious look.

