A Dressmaker From Ghana in England

Like many young women of humble origin in Ghana, Afriyie had been apprenticed to a seamstress, the common title for a dressmaker. She became an exceptional craftswoman and practiced her craft successfully in both Ghana and England, but when it came to taking an apprentice herself, she found it much more difficult in England.

The unofficial agreement between a self-employed seamstress and her apprentice, followed an established pattern that was widely applied throughout the informal sector of the economy in many trades pursued by both men and women. The training usually lasted five years, at the end of which the apprentice was expected to leave to set up her own business. Exploiting a situation in which alternative paid employment was not available, the apprentice was paid no wages, but was usually given a little ‘chop money’ to buy food.

The problem of establishing one’s own business was always a lack of capital. Having been paid nothing during the apprenticeship the trainee had no savings. Some young women were helped by their families and some by a boyfriend, but many were forced to try to stay with their mistress beyond the normal five years. If they were both skilful and lucky, they might be kept on as a paid assistant but jobs were scarce and poorly paid. Afriyie was lucky to be helped by Kwame Mainu when she moved to Tema to help him look after his young daughter, Akosua. Her business flourished for a few years and Afriyie trained apprentices in her turn.

When Kwame travelled to Cranfield to study for his master’s degree, Afriyie went with him. She kept herself busy and supplement their modest income by offering dressmaking services to the academic community, adjusting today’s fashions to suit yesterday’s dimensions, and introducing Ghanaian style dresses to those ladies who had given up the struggle. This was work she could do at home, but with ample opportunity to display her creations at various social gatherings at the university.

After a few years back in Tema, Kwame and Afriyie returned to England and Kwame took up an academic appointment at Warwick University. Although there was no longer any pressing economic necessity, Afriyie revived her dressmaking activity to fill her otherwise idle hours and keep in practice. Her Ghanaian-style dresses proved as popular as before and she was soon getting enough commissions to fully occupy her nimble fingers. Inevitably, her thoughts turned to employing an apprentice.

It wasn’t easy to bring a young relative from Ghana but after some time Elsie arrived to fill the role. Afriyie was expecting the same sort of arrangement as applied between mistress and apprentice in Ghana, but meeting other young women at church, Elsie soon had other ideas. She demanded a proper wage and when this was not forthcoming she ran away to find a better job. The skills of a good dressmaker may be equally appreciated in Ghana and England, but running a dressmaking business is very different.

The National Flower of England

Have you always wanted to learn more about the national symbols of England including what England’s national flower is? If so, then you have come to the right place, as I will be more than happy to assist you with this. England’s national flower is the Tudor rose, and this particular flower is considered by many to be quite stunningly beautiful.

England’s national flower certainly has a rich and interesting history. A Tudor rose is a rose that is half white and half red. Historically, it served as a symbol to mark the end of the famous War of the Roses. The Tudor rose also serves as a representation of the marriage between the House of York and the House of Lancaster which occurred after the War of the Roses had ceased. Although as I mentioned before the Tudor rose started out as half white and half red, nowadays the national flower for England is often shown as simply a solid red rose. White roses are also used at various events in England occasionally. Of note, you may find it interesting to learn that red roses are a symbol for Lancashire, and white roses are known to symbolize Yorkshire.

The War of the Roses first came about as a long, drawn out civil war between the House of York and the House of Lancaster. As a matter of fact, the War of the Roses lasted approximately 32 years! Henry VII from the House of Lancaster and King Richard III from the House of York battled it out on Bosworth Field in 1485, with Henry VII declared as the winner. This victory then made it possible for Henry VII to lay claim to England’s throne, and from that point forward, he became known as King Henry VII. King Henry VII then went on to marry Elizabeth of York which gave him even greater claim to the House of York. It was then that England’s national flower the Tudor rose was born. The reason for this is that the blending of the House of York and the House of Lancaster resulted in a Tudor Rose emblem being developed.

The red rose is also used nowadays in England as the symbol of the Rugby Football Union as well as the Rugby Football League. Of note, both teams were founded right around the same time, with the Rugby Football League being formed shortly after the Rugby Football Union. Many people in England also utilized roses in various ways to help celebrate St. George’s Day. Thank you for taking the time to read this article, and I hope that you have found the information that I have shared with you on the national flower of England to be both interesting and informative.

Cricket New Normal: England Triumph In Closed-Door Tests!

Cricket in COVID-19 times started in England from the 8th of July 2020 in empty stadiums and with the strictest of norms and measures. The first 3-Test Series since the outbreak of the pandemic was played against the visiting West Indies. The visitors won the first test by 4 wickets on the fifth and last day of the closely fought encounter. However, the hosts came back stronger in the second and the third test matches, winning the second match by 113 runs and then routing the unpredictable, as ever, West Indies by 269 runs in the concluding match, thus winning the Test Series 2-1. In Test cricket, English seamer Stuart Broad became the 2nd seam bowler from England, the fourth fast bowler of the world and the seventh bowler overall of the world, to capture 500 wickets in the last encounter that concluded on the 28th of July 2020. Pity, no home supporters or any other supporters were there to cheer him and the team win! The most promising aspect of the New Normal Cricket was that no health-related issues daunted the efforts. And, cricket in empty stadiums continued.

Next came the team of Pakistan for a 3-match Test Series and a 3-match T20I Series against the hosts England. The first test match between England and Pakistan was played from the 5th of August, and England, keeping up the winning streak, won the match by 3 wickets. The match, played at the Emirates Old Trafford ground in Manchester, was a cliffhanger, and England managed eventually to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat on the final day, the hosts going 1-0 up in the series. Rains and bad light continuously interrupted proceedings of the second test at the Rose Bowl in Southampton, allowing only 150 overs to be bowled overall, and the match ended in a frustrating draw for both teams, particularly for Pakistan smarting under the shock defeat in the first match. The third and the final match of the series, a much-awaited showdown, started from 21st August 2020 at the same venue. England sealed the deal by putting up a mammoth score of 583 for 8 declared, and then going on to rout Pakistan for 273 in the first innings forcing them to follow on. Thanks to rain interruptions England could not go on to win, and Pakistan saved the match at 187 for 4 wickets. However, history was created in that Test match.

38-year-old English fast bowling stalwart, James Anderson, took his 29th five-wicket haul in Pakistan’s first innings and then captured two more scalps in the second innings to complete a record-breaking 600 wickets. The right-arm fast bowler became the first pace-bowler in international Test cricket to achieve the feat of 600 wickets leaving Glen McGrath of Australia in the second place with 563 scalps, and the fourth bowler overall, Sri Lanka’s Muralitharan sitting at the top with incredible 800 wickets, followed by Australia’s SK Warne with 708 in the second position and India’s Anil Kumble with 619 wickets in the third position. James Anderson made his ODI debut in 2002 and earned a place in the 2003 ICC World Cup squad, and he stamped his mark in international cricket. His Test debut came in 2003, and from then onward he played in 156 test matches for England till history was made on the 25th of August 2020. The tall pacer has often been criticized as ‘English-conditions-only’ seamer, and his career was interrupted often as he was either ‘rested’ or dropped due to external factors. However, he proved all his critics wrong, finally, and emerged as one of the finest bowlers of world cricket. Pity again, English fans or any other spectators could not be present at the Rose Bowl to cherish the historical moment. Anyway, the hosts won the series 1-0.

Pakistan is also scheduled to figure in a 3-match T20 international series against the hosts England. The first match on 28th of August, the second on 30th of August and the final match on 1st of September 2020.

Now to come in England’s archrivals Australia, for a 3-Match T20I Series and a 3-match ODI Series. The T20 matches will be played on the 4th, 6th and 8th of September while the one-day international matches are scheduled on the 11th, 13th and 16th of September 2020.

In a most likely extension of the New Normal Cricket India is set to begin their Tour of Australia 2020-21 from the month of October 2020. Cricket Australia has recently announced the full schedule of the matches between the two teams: the first of the 3-match T20I would take place on the 11th of October, followed by a 4-match Test Series from 3rd December and the 3-match ODI Series would begin from the 12th of January 2021. As per the discussion between the two Boards the second test starting from the 11th of December at the Adelaide Oval would be a day and night affair with the pink ball. Continue enjoying cricket from home!

Renaissance Faire Costumes – Were There Any Women Pirates in Renaissance England?

You bet! They were most definitely in the minority but they were never the less there and very able. So don’t worry about sacrificing your well established credibility among your fellow renaissance faire friends when you buy a really cool and very authentic pirate costume…one you wanted bad, you wanted real bad! Rest assured you are in the right when you carry your own cutlass!

More later about who you can base you character on but first let’s get to that killer outfit designed with the essentials. Did I mention that this is also a costume that is not only renaissance faire appropriate but will wear well at that Halloween party where we adults get to dress up or down, your call.

Chemise

The chemise, the foundation for ALL renaissance era clothing or costumes is important. The fortunate thing about a pirates costume is that if they were a pirate and were caught they typically were executed. So flaunting the statuary laws by dressing above their station and risking a fine was not a major concern, know what I mean? All chemise styles, fabrics and colors, except purple of course are appropriate for your new festival garb. Stick to the full length version even though you are running with the guys.

Over dress

If you are going to base your costume on the pirate why not be the captain? Do you want to be climbing the rigging or swabbing the decks? Didn’t think so! You will however need to be armed. A loose fitting chemise and equally loose over dress can hide many weapons.

Boots

Thigh high boots, maybe for that Halloween party but not at the local renaissance faire. It would not be quite authentic and would most definitely be uncomfortable walking around in them at the fair all day. You will want them to be black leather and calf high. They will not be as fitted as most women wear today but loose and roll down a little at the top.

Lady Mary Killigrew

She was a daughter of a pirate and married to a pirate from Suffolk England. Her husband was appointed by Queen Elizabeth I to the rank of Vice-Admiral and was charged with suppressing piracy. When the good captain Sir Killigrew went to sea the Lady Mary “commandeered” her castle staff and went to sea herself. Her luck finally ran out in 1570 when she captured a German merchant carrying freight and sailed it to Ireland to see what she could get for her pirates work.

One problem the owner of the vessel she pirated was a friend of Queen Elizabeth, this is not a good thing. There are multiple versions of what took place next but the outcome was that she quit the pirating business…and took up fencing stolen goods! What a gal!

A Brief History of England

Thousands of scholars over the course of time have written countless books on the history on England. England’s history is a long an elaborate one filled with murder, intrigue and fantastic accomplishments. If one was sit down and start to write a history of England they would have to pick just one aspect of the countries history, or they would be writing undoubtedly to the reached their death.

The royal family has always been a point of interest to people. Several novels could and have been written on the monarchy of England, and they way each of those monarchs have chosen to rule over the country. An exciting point in history came when those kings and queens no longer had complete and total control over all of the decisions made in the country, and instead worked along with a parliament to make decisions for the English people.

Just walking through the streets of England you can tell that it is a country enriched with history. Many of the buildings that stood hundreds of years ago are still standing today. Unlike their counterparts England stands true to tradition. Many of their traditional buildings still remain in tact, and are still used for the same purposes that they were used for when they were originally built. You have the opportunity to just walk by, or even stop and walk in a piece of history everywhere that you go.

In England you can visit the homes of famous writers for centuries before, and actually have the opportunity to walk around in their homes. In some other counties you just have the opportunity to read about the countries history, in England you have the ability to experience it firsthand through traveling to historical landmarks, and physically seeing how they were then, and how they still are today.

England started to become what we know today in 1588 when they defeated the Spanish armada. After that terrific win, Great Britain set its sights on the world and has remained a highly respected world power to this day. Although physically smaller than many other countries, England has managed throughout the years to maintain a great position of power throughout the world.

Throughout the years by way of a political or military decision both Scotland and Wales have been made a part of England several times. Today the two are set apart from England as their own countries, yet all are a part of the collective United Kingdom. Each of those transfers is filled with history, that you can in some ways still see today when making a trip to the other countries as well as England.

Another exciting part of English history has been the pulls between Catholicism and Protestants in the country. Once primarily catholic, King Henry VII was responsible for England’s ultimate breaking with the catholic church due to his desire to divorce his current wife and marry another. That break remained somewhat permanent, despite many future attempts to reinstate it, most famously Queen Mary Tutor (Bloody Mary)’s slaughter of numerous Protestants during her reign. Even today England is eighty percent protestant.

Before you plan any trip to England first take out a history book and scan through for paces where exciting events in history have taken place within England’s borders. Throughout the years a number of highly important events that have changed not only England, but also the entire world have happened within England’s borders. When making a trip to visit the country you have the opportunity to often see the exact place that these types of events took place.

Copyright 2005 S Wander

The Silhouette- In Georgian and Regency England

The silhouette was a picture of a person showing the outline only, filled usually with solid shadow, and most often, in profile. Its name comes from “Etienne de Silhouette,” a French controller general of finance who lived from 1709 to 1767. He was a notorious cheapskate, so that his name became synonymous with anything done or made cheaply, such as silhouettes, in addition to which he decorated a new house entirely (to save money) by cutting out little silhouettes from black paper.

The popularity of the silhouette was indeed in part because it was inexpensive (much less so than having a portrait painted, for example), and could be quickly produced, but also because it was a delightful form of art in its own right.

There are several types of silhouettes but the most common were cut from black paper with scissors. They could also be called “paper cuttings,” “shadows”, or, as in England, “shades.” Once the black shape was finished, the paper would then be glued to a white (or at least, lighter) background card and there was your finished likeness. The silhouette was also popular in America, where you could have one made on the street, such as in Philadelphia, for a penny, and within minutes. In size they resembled a small photograph, and once the daguerreotype was invented, the silhouette quickly decreased in popularity.

During the last decades of the eighteenth century (Georgian England) and into the early nineteenth, (the Regency) however, silhouettes were still the rage. In the courts of France and Germany they even replaced the miniature portrait. The miniatures, as I explain in a different article, were popular among dignitaries as diplomatic tools, and among all who could afford them, as personal tokens. The silhouette , by contrast, made portable likenesses of loved ones affordable for nearly anyone, and could even be used as wall decorations . All you needed was a person capable of creating them (a “profile portraitist”) and a few pence. In time, their popularity swung right back towards the rich, who, “commissioned silhouettes to be painted and encrusted with precious stones in jewelry and snuff boxes. Royalty commissioned porcelain dinner services with silhouettes. Common folk filled albums with silhouettes of family and friends. “

In addition, making silhouettes was a popular parlour game (called Shades), where anyone could try their hand at the art. The finished pieces may not have been works of art, but the making of them was surely a merry way to pass the time. (The game called “Shadows,” by contrast, was when one made shadow-images on the walls using mostly the hands; nothing was drawn or taken away from the exercise except a few laughs.)

The Concise Brittanica states that silhouettes were done “by drawing the outline cast by candlelight or lamplight,” which is surely how the average person did it. However, “once photography rendered silhouettes nearly obsolete, they became (merely) a type of folk art practiced by itinerant artists and caricaturists.”

Auguste Edouart, a Frenchman, cut full-length silhouettes. Another itinerant was the American boy silhouettist Master Hubard, who cut profiles in 20 seconds.

A beautiful example of a silhouette is one we have of Cassandra Austen, Jane’s beloved sister. (Use the link at the bottom to download my April ezine, which includes illustrations with this article.) Notice the lighter detailing? This was done by virtue of the fact that one’s “shade” could be reduced (“using a reducing instrument known as a pantograph”) then painted using “soot, or lamp black, on plaster or glass. After painting the face dead black, the hair, hats, ribbons, frills, and other essential accessories of the day, would have been ‘dragged’ out, using a fine brush, with progressively more and more diluted pigment.”

Another style of silhouette (with yellow background, see example in download) is Jane Austen”s self-portrait. Though more simply executed than the first, it is an excellent example of the art. According to one antiques’ website, the silhouette of the past would likely have been done in any of the following four formats:

  • Painted on paper, card, vellum, ivory, silk, or porcelain;
  • Painted in reverse on glass;
  • Hollow cut with the aid of a machine or, very rarely, by hand. In this process the figure is cut away from the paper thereby leaving a negative image. The paper outline is then backed with a contrasting color of paper or fabric; Or,

    Cut freehand with scissors or a sharp edge and then pasted to a contrasting (usually light-colored) background. “

    In England, from the late 18th into the early 19th century, (the stylistic Regency, in other words) a famous silhouette artist was John Miers (1756-1821). Preceding him was John Field. JC Lavater, a German who dabbled in science, used a machine to make what he called “scientific” silhouettes. (I suppose that “scientific” in this case, means “accurate”.)

    If you click the link below to download the ezine, you’ll see, as the final illustration to this article, a silhouette called, “Swinging Corpse,” which is an image from Bill Nye’s History of England, published in 1900; (Called, “A Reluctant Tax Payer”!) The image has been doctored (the background cut away) to make it a silhouette, but as I have also been doing a series on “Murder and Mayhem During the Regency”) I thought this particular silhouette was an appropriate closing image. (smile)

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