I have to admit I am a do it yourself freak. I like to build just about everything from sheds to dog houses, to platform beds. On my latest project of building a dog house, I had to ask myself the question, should I have windows in the dog house I am building? Sheds have windows, real houses have windows, but do dog houses need windows?

I started to scour the internet looking for some reliable dog house plans. I also did some research to find out why most houses for dogs don’t have windows. Here is what I came up with. First off, even dogs like looking out the window when they are inside your house, most of the time, which is because they want to go outside to chase a bird or a squirrel. Or maybe they just want to go outside and sniff around. If they are in a doggy house, they can simply leave the house and enter the yard without you letting them out.

Secondly, if your doggy’s house has windows the likelihood of them staying clean is almost none. Your dog’s nose will be all over the window and it will be dirty in no time flat, meaning, he will no longer have a window to look out.

Now for the most important reasons dog homes do not have windows. They simply do not do as good of a job keeping heat in as a solid insulated wall. Likewise, during the summer they let too much heat in and the house will no longer stay as cool as you would like. There are some things you can do to help this, particularly the placement of the dog house in your yard. You can place it near a fence, near your house, or under a large tree. This too will help.

Of course you can use your dog door as a window for your dog’s home. These plastic, clear doors will help keep the elements out and will give your dog a place to look out if he wants to. If you are building your own house for your dog, I recommend you build an insulated dog house that is easy to clean. I would have either the roof or one of the walls open so you can easily clean your dog’s home every so often. You might also want to invest in a burrow bed during the winter months or add a heater to keep your dog plenty warm.

Quite simply, an “Underfoot” dog is a small dog breed which can receive serious injuries if stepped on.

Some of the most popular small breeds are the Pomeranian, the Chihuahua, Miniature Poodle, Maltese, Shih Tzu and the ever so popular Yorkshire Terrier, known as the Yorkie.

There is a huge demand for not only small breeds, but for small dogs who are at the very low end of the accepted weight scale. The AKC, the largest and most respected dog club organization in the United States lists an accepted weight range.

Even so, thousands of people want to have a dog who is either at the very bottom of that accepted size or even under it.

What these owners or potential owners do not realize is that having a very tiny dog equals a great amount of responsibility. Sadly, many owners have obtained a small breed dog only to severely injure that dog by accident.

People must realize that having a dog, especailly a small one, is very much akin to having a baby. The dog will be an “Underfoot” dog. You must be constantly aware of where the dog is. If you trip over or step on one of these dog breeds, you will not just say “opps!”, you will most likely be rushing your Pom, Chi, Yorkie or other dog to the animal hospital.

These breeds can receive broken limbs, even if you do not put all of your weight down. One element that makes these small dog breeds so prone to being under your feet is that they are known for being very loyal, very personable and following their owner around the home, like a shadow.

People tend to get busy, they may be walking around the house while talking on the phone, cleaning a room, carrying laundry or other. The dog will be right underfoot, and this is when it only takes a split second for the dog to be accidentally stepped on.

Recovery from broken limbs takes a long time. The dog will be fairly immobilized. Sometimes, the bones will not heal just right and the dog may have a limp for the rest of its life. Sadly, some dogs are killed when stepped on.

Beside having to be aware of where you dog is at all times, so that he or she is not stepped on, one must also be aware that sitting on a small breed dog can be fatal to the dog. If you are not looking and your 4 pound Yorkie in lying in the corner of your sofa and you sit down, this can be devastating.

These small dogs can be injured when jumping down from furniture, when being yanked by a leash and more.

Please take the time to learn about a dog breed before you bring one into your home. Toy breed dogs are wonderful companions. However, to make sure that your new fluffy friend lives a long, happy and safe life, take a bit of time to learn about how to care for them and how to keep them out of danger.

Introduction

Yapping dogs are perhaps the worst nightmare of any person living next door. These are typically toy or small breed dogs that tend to sit at the gate and yap sun-up till sun-down. This article will explain why these dogs are doing this and what you can do if you are the owner of a yapping dog.

Reasons why a Dog Barks Non-stop

Dogs that bark persistently are bored most of the time. There are rare causes like obsessive compulsive disorders (OCD) that cause prolonged barking episodes, most owners want veterinarians to diagnose OCD as the cause for their dog’s bad barking behaviour because there is no real treatment. These owners are often in denial and do not want to face the fact that they have a bored dog. Here are some of the reasons a dog will bark continuously:

• Boredom is the most common cause. This is often built up energy that the dog has due to inactivity or lack of social interaction. They have no other route of expelling this excess energy, so they opt to bark all day long at anything they see.
• Habit of barking that has built up over months, even years. This is the worst of the lot. These dogs just bark anywhere and everywhere. At the gate, along the fence, in the house, some just sit in a quiet spot and bark for the fun of barking.
• Sight problems, dogs that cannot see very well or who have hair growing in front of their eyes are prone to barking. They usually calm down when they recognise the perceived threat.
• Hearing problems are also a concern. Deaf dogs or dogs that are losing their hearing are prone to barking. Dogs that have very acute hearing will also bark, often at sounds that you cannot even hear, such as construction work four or five blocks away.
• Very old dogs are more at risk of beginning canine cognitive dysfunction (dementia). This is where their brains are not working as well as they should due to normal old age changes inside the body. Old dogs on high protein diets are prone to this. Their bark will also often change in frequency and they may even howl or have a droning type bark.
• Aggressive dogs will bark and growl. If they have an aggression problem they will growl, crouch down and bark if the perceived threat does not move away. These dogs are dangerous and it is not advisable to keep them on your property. This world has no place for aggressive dogs.
• Protective barking is when a dog will bark at something they are not sure of. Dogs will bark at insects, snakes, rats, mice and almost anything they find intriguing. They will try to call you closer to have a look at what they have discovered.
• Instinct behaviour is also an important cause of barking. Some dogs still demonstrate normal canine pack behaviour and barking is a form of communication and to display territory. Breeds such as Siberian Huskies, Alaskan Malamutes, German Shepherd Dogs and dogs crossed with wolves seem to be more prone to this type of barking.
• Last but not least is an obsessive compulsive disorder causing dogs to bark persistently. These are dogs that seem to be habit barkers but do not respond to the corrective measures. This is very rare and your dog will only be diagnosed with this by exclusion of exploring all other barking related issues as described above. This is a tricky disease to treat at the best of times.

Bored Barkers Versus Habit Barkers

These two reasons make up at least 85% of all dog barking issues. This is very important for you to decide which is true for your dog. The reason being is that the method of stopping this unwanted behaviour is very different. If you have a habit barker, often you need to resort to more advanced correction techniques to get the dog over this type of behaviour. It is best that you be honest with yourself, it is difficult to admit that you have a bored dog at home. Here are some tips to help you decide which type of dog you have:

Habit Barkers:

• Barks anywhere and everywhere.
• Will sit in one spot and begin to bark.
• Monotone hysterical barking.
• Continuous cyclical yap that can be timed, often one bark every 5 seconds.
• Calling these dogs might stop them for a minute or two then they will continue barking.
• These dogs are on their own most often, and will not socialize often.

Bored Barkers:

• Often at some stimulating site such as along the fence or at the gate.
• Will often run up-and-down a fence or along the yard boundary.
• If something exciting happens, these dogs change their barking tone.
• Bark frequency depends on how much action there is, so it is highly variable.
• Calling these dogs often helps, as long as you have something more exciting to offer them, or else they will return to their barking.
• Dogs will spur each other on, especially the neighbour’s dogs. They will both run up-and-down the yard boundary barking at each other.

Rules of Correction and Reward

In order for you to win the war of unwanted barking you must learn to discipline your dog correctly. If you do not learn the art of appropriate discipline then you will suffer from poor results. Discipline is such a harsh word with many connotations, so you may use the word correction to help make you feel a bit more positive over winning the war. In most cases it is a war, as the dog owner will either be battling with fed up neighbours, fed up family members and a disheartened attitude towards your once loved pet before they became a barking demon. Follow these tips and tricks and you will restore confidence in yourself, your pet and the disgruntled people putting pressure on you to resolve the issue.

You will need to do the following:

• Always remain calm and collected. A person who is frantic, hysterical and angry will not be able to correct their dog.
• Build trust with your dog, if you do not spend time with them, then this is a great start. Talk to your dog in a soft, warm friendly tone of voice.
• Learn to speak clearly and in varying tones without shouting. This is going to help you immensely when you begin your verbal correction.
• When you correct your dog there is an uneasy period where the dog may not trust you. It is vital to regain this trust after a correction. You must do this, a dog will never listen to a person who they do not trust or who they are afraid of.
• Reward all good behaviour. Such as when they are not barking, show them some caring. Or when you see they want to begin barking, but stop when they see you. Your reward is important as this reinforces good behaviour.
• Reward them with your time, friendly warm tone of voice and a good tickle on the head or belly. Never use food as a reward or distraction.
• Always be on time with your correction and reward after they respond to a correction.
• If you are over correcting your dog will run away with a tail tucked under them. If this is the case do not correct again as roughly as you did. Always regain the trust by inviting your dog over for a belly tickle. This may take time for them to trust you again. You must regain their trust to win.
• Never chase your dog to correct them. This will turn into a game and you will lose.

The plan is first to gain your dog’s trust. Get them to come to you when you call them. Once they come to you, reward them by giving them good praise and a belly tickle. This is the most important part before you begin the correction process. This can take as long as a week to do. They must come to you when you call. Often you may need to crouch down and pat your thigh while calling them. Never chase after them and grab them. Once they are close to you, hold out your hand, palms facing them and let them sniff your hands. Never grab them closer if they are nervous in the beginning. They must learn that coming to you is fun and exciting because they get attention and a belly tickle. Once they willingly come over to you when you call you can begin the correction methods.

Remember that once you correct your dog you must restore trust that same day of correction. This is done as described above, call them over and reward them in a friendly manner.

Never call them over and correct them! This will destroy the trust built between you and your dog.

If you see that they are being good reward them. If you correct them with a verbal cue and they respond you must also reward them.

Most owners are afraid to correct their dog, they believe that correction is cruel and not a good idea. If you rear a belligerent dog that is disobedient and a trouble maker that nobody likes and do not want it, it is your fault for not correcting them. Their fate is far worse than giving appropriate discipline to correct unwanted behaviour. Dogs that cannot be handled live a life of misery. Nobody wants them and they are often put to sleep to end their suffering.

Correcting a Bored Barker

These dogs luckily do not require much correction. The correction comes in correcting the owner in owning a dog. These dogs are bored day in and day out. They are not active enough during the day and have lots of built up energy. They will often run up-and-down along a fence and are quite fit. The first tip you can try is getting into the habit of spending time with your dog. They need you to help use up their unspent energy. You can try the following:

• Teaching your dog to retrieve a ball, rope toy etc. A 20 minute play in the yard helps a tremendous amount for you and your dog. Not all dogs will retrieve, however most will chase balls. So if your dog is not a retriever you can make him chase balls by buying 4 balls and throwing them around the yard. Once he catches one throw the next.
• Going for a walk around the neighbourhood. This is excellent for your dog. Sometimes it is unpleasant as there are so many dogs in the area that walking your own one becomes a tedious job of wrestling them to leave all the other dogs. Or the cacophony of noise while you are walking is very unpleasant. Refer to Part 2 & Part 5 in particular of the Basic Dog Training Article Series for information on how to walk your dog correctly.
• Take your dog to a park or sports ground for a good run around. Take balls and toys and really get in there and play with your dog. They will greatly appreciate this.
• Teach your dog to swim if you have a pool. This will help in the warmer months. Swimming uses a lot of energy and will tire your dog.

The idea here is to first burn all your dogs’ energy during the day. Once evening comes they would rather rest instead of barking the whole time. If this does not work you can go to a higher level of correction.

Here are appropriate correction techniques:

• The first step is verbal correction. Walk outside in visual and hearing range of your dog. When they bark, say in a loud, clear tone “Name of Pet – Quiet.” Remember that you must be calm and collective, not yelling and screaming at your dog. Take charge and show them you mean business. If they stop barking, call them over and reward them with praise saying that they are a good dog. A belly tickle helps a lot. Wait for 5 minutes and make sure your dog does not begin barking again.
• If the top approach does not work then you must make your correction more meaningful to distract the behaviour and get their attention. You will need ammunition to help you get the message through. Some of these dogs are so worked up that they need firmer convincing to abandon this behaviour. The best ammunition are light stones found in the garden, just smaller than a hand size. If you cannot throw accurately you may need to get sand clods instead. Keep a few of them handy at the door where you will be coming out of to correct them. Walk into visual and auditory range and give a clear, commanding tone verbal correction as above. If your dog ignores you, give the command once more then throw the stone or sand clod at the dog. Do not worry if you hit them, this stone is too small to hurt them seriously. Remember that you are trying to get a point across and you must sometimes bruise them a bit to get the message through in stubborn dogs. How hard you throw the stone will depend on their tolerance to correction. If the dog stops and looks at you, you have thrown it hard enough. If the dog runs away with its tail between its legs, you have over corrected a bit and next time you should throw a bit softer. The most important aspect is to regain trust right after this correction. You must crouch down and call your dog in a warm and loving tone as described above. Once you have regained trust it is time to see if this has worked.
• In most cases you will need two to three weeks of correction to stop the behaviour of boredom barking.

Remember to correct and reward, if you break trust you need to regain it for this to work.

Correcting a Habit Barker

These dogs are often stubborn and very independent. They will look at you defiantly and bark often with just verbal correction. You can use the boredom barking correction to begin with. Very often you will need to strengthen your correction to imbed the message that barking is an unwanted behaviour. You can try the following:

• Water acts as a great deterrent. You will need to arm yourself with a bucket of water. If the dog barks, command them to stop with a verbal command. If they persist, repeat the verbal command and then throw them with water. You can walk right up to them with the water and throw it in their face.
• You can also try a high jet of water from a high powered water gun or hose connection. Remember to always give the clear, loud verbal command as described above, then if they continue give them the last verbal command and wet them.
• Once this is done, most dogs are very confused and scared of you. You must regain their trust and reward them when they come to you.
• Never chase your dog. Or else you will be in trouble by making this correction a game.

Water does the trick in almost all cases.

With all corrections, you must regain trust after you have corrected. Remember to reward your dog every time you see they are not barking, if they respond to a verbal command call them over for a reward.

Correcting Other Causes for Barking

Many other causes of barking have been mentioned, they only make up the remaining 25% of causes. Some can only be channelled and not cured such as instinctive and protective barking. If your dog has excellent hearing often the most helpful is locking them indoors at night to solve the problem. If your dog has hair growing in front of its face, trim it and this will often help.

If your dog has dementia, deafness or OCD then you will need more effort to correct this. These causes of barking are extremely difficult to cure. Luckily these make up the least amount of cases. You will need to work with a licensed veterinarian and a behaviourist to cure these.

Conclusion

Barking dogs are a real life concern for all dog owners. If you are an unlucky owner with a noisy dog it is your job to correct it before they become a neighbourhood disturbance. Often working with your dog will solve the issue. Remember that the first step is to gain a trust relationship with your dog before you begin correction. Most trouble dogs are detached from their owners, so securing a good bond will often solve most of the problem. Luckily most of the barking dogs fit into two categories, either a boredom barker or a habit barker and these require owner participation to correct in all cases.

Just like their owners, just about all dogs will periodically suffer from constipation; some more than others. In most cases, simple precautions and home remedies work enough to help them. However, if the problem gets out of control, it could become serious, expensive and possibly fatal.

Owners of dogs on medications, inactive, older and senior dogs should pay extra attention when their dog goes about the business of eliminating. They are commonly known to be more prone to constipation difficulties.

Dogs with pica are also prime candidates. Pica is a disorder where by a dog routinely eats inappropriate, usually indigestible items. For example: bottle caps (metal or plastic) coins, balls, screws, nails, rocks, string, wood, concrete, clothes, pillow and toy stuffing and toys. These items can cause a blockage, preventing them from eliminating.

Forms of physical blockage due to health issues are: tumors, polyps, and intestinal intussesception. Intestinal intussesception occurs when one section of the intestines telescopes into another section causing an obstruction. These are serious conditions, requiring immediate veterinary attention!

Certain medications can cause eliminating problems. Know what the side effects are of all medications prescribed for your pet. If you are aware of the side effects, you may be able to prevent them.

Stress, thyroid problems, parasites, low fiber dog food, trauma, lack of exercise and dehydration are also on the list of possible sources of blockage.

Rawhides are a common cause of not only choking, but also blockage. Do your dog a favor. Play Mr. Wizard by cutting off a piece, put it in a glass of water overnight and watch it grow! Even a small chunk caught in their intestines could not only cause a blockage, but it could also possibly cause their intestines to rupture.

Most likely, your dog is telling you they need help. Watch for if they are straining when eliminating, vomiting, appear lethargic, have difficulty walking, have a mucus discharge when eliminating, scooting, have dry, hard stools, whine, are restless, display weight loss or abdominal bloating, appear stressed/uncomfortable and/or show no interest in food. You and your dog, may have a problem.

If the situation has not risen to the critical stage, a few home remedies may help them through this painful time. Here are a few proven suggestions:

Be prepared. You should keep on hand, milk, canned pumpkin (not the pie filling), Mylanta Gas, GasX, and Metamucil, bran or sugar-less bran cereal, chicken or beef broth, canine stool softeners, canned wet food, and olive or mineral oil. Some also recommend aloe juice.

Ways to help your dog include:

Water, water, everywhere! Have a number of water bowls strategically placed around the house and yard. Often, just finding a new water bowl somewhere is enough to entice them to take a few licks.

Ice cubes! Most dogs love ice cubes. It’s a good way for them to think they are getting a treat… and you know they are getting hydrated.

Soften their food. Adding water or broth to dry food and letting it soften and swell in the bowl, before feeding it to your dog, often makes it easier to digest and pass. It can also help avoid bloat.

Mylanta Gas, GasX, or Metamucil may help ease the discomfort before your dog actually becomes seriously obstructed. Sprinkle or mix a spoonful of Metamucil on or in their food. Make sure your dog drinks plenty of water after the Metamucil!

One or two spoons of plain canned pumpkin (not pie filling) mixed in their food not only adds nutrition, it has lots of fiber! This can be used as either a preventative measure or remedy.

A little olive oil, mineral oil or the oil from a can of tuna fish added to their food can help lubricate them. You can even give them a little treat by adding the tuna. It may inspire a dog that is not interested in eating take a few nibbles.

Canned salmon is high in Omega-3 oils. Mix a little in with their dry food as a surprise now and then. Most dogs love fish!

Don’t forget fruits and veggies! String beans, fresh or frozen, have loads of fiber. Add a fistful to their regular diet. Some dogs love carrots, watermelon, bananas and apples. A few small pieces can add needed fiber to their diet in a pleasant way. Do not give them grapes or raisins!

Smaller portions, more feedings. Instead of feeding your pet once or twice a day, feed them their regular amount, but in smaller portions spaced out every few hours.

For those fast eaters that don’t chew, never mind taste their food, there are specially designed bowls, with a large “ball” in the center. The dog has to work around the ball, so they don’t just inhale their food.

For larger dogs, about a half cup of milk can get the plumbing back on track. For the smaller guys a tablespoon or two should work. You can also add a bit of bran or high fiber sugar-free cereal to the milk. What a special treat!

Some dog owners add a spoon or two of plain yogurt or cottage cheese to their dog’s daily diet, to keep them regular. It also makes meals a bit more appealing than just plunking down a bowl of dry food.

Exercise, exercise, exercise! If your dog is a swimmer, great! It’s a wonderful way to exercise your pet. If not, a couple of short walks per day, can help get things moving. It won’t hurt you either! Three or four 20 minute walks, spaced out over the course of the day can help.

For older and senior dogs, get them food made especially for them. Typically, they contain more fiber. Watch for the grain content. Look for low-grain dog foods.

For puppies, a warm, damp towel sometimes helps. They don’t get constipated very often, but if they do, wet and warm a towel, place your puppy on their back and gently rub their belly from front to back. Normally, it only takes a few strokes. Their mom did this with her tongue, when they were in the litter, to stimulate them to urinate and defecate.

Now for the serious stuff! If your dog has been suffering from constipation for more than two days, get them to your veterinarian. They may be able to treat them with IVs, suppositories and/or enemas before it reaches the critical stage. Complications from constipation can include what is referred to as megacolon. That is the advanced stage where the stools are too hard and dry to pass. It will require surgery.

Obstipation, also known as intractable constipation, occurs when the blockage is so dangerous neither the gas nor the stools can pass. Again, this will most likely require surgery.

Gross as it may sound, dog owners should be knowledgeable of their dog’s “normal” bowel movements and habits. Not only does that set off an early warning signal, it can also help recognize when your dog is back to normal. Note: Diarrhea does not necessarily mean the problem has been solved. Loose bowel movements can squeeze by blockages.

Bottom line: It’s always wiser to prevent a situation, than to have to deal with it. A few precautions can help prevent your dog from discomfort and pain. The most important thing to know is when you can no longer help them; get them to your veterinarian before it’s too late.

An online search of comments and opinions declares that owning a dog in 1960 was very different than today. One quarter of dogs at that time were random street roamers whether they were owned or not. Ownership rules were much less defined. Even though there was commercial dog food available and Milk Bone treat company, the dog food industry only appealed to some dog owners. Mainstream dogs were surviving off table scraps and pouring gravy on your dog’s food was a huge trend!

Dog Trends of The 1960’s

Ladies of the 1960’s popularised smaller breed dogs that were easily carried around. It began a new trend in dog owning as the owners started to dress the small dogs in sweaters. 1960’s initiated major societal shifts in dog care, health and even animal ethics.

Veterinarians were few. In the 1960’s the science of veterinarian medicine was an established degree that required a few “short” years of university education, in a time when most people were getting by on high school graduation or less. It wasn’t a very popular profession and took too long compared to many other job options available. There were few applicants and few graduates of the program. Pet care was provided only on demand. Very sick and injured dogs were usually euthanized, as the system did not have the technology or resources to prolong life as we enjoy today.

Successful graduates were mostly male, and went on to work in remote areas of the country on farms. Specialising in treatment of illness and disease in large animals – bovine and equine. Veterinarian’s of the 1960’s also were trained in poultry disease treatment, so their focus was really about promoting farm animal viability for the human food industry sales and consumption.

Dog Owning in 1990: Veterinary Medicine Expands to Accommodate Urban Families and Their Pets

By the 1990’s radical shifts have occurred in veterinarian science. First off, a university degree is becoming more recognised as standard education for the work force. Well not mandatory for job obtainment in many fields, applicants with degrees are generally regarded as having more job opportunities and better pay with more social benefits. The 1990’s also sees more women students entering medical and science programs, even in veterinarian sciences. However, the majority of students and professors remain male.

Veterinarian clinics have been popping up all over the country to serve domesticated house hold pets who become ill or have an accident or need palliation. The medical approach is still largely on treating the problem, illness or disease. New ideas for disease prevention and health education are just beginning to cause another shift in veterinarian focus. From on-demand vaccinations to spaying and neutering for population control, leading themes show a broader shift in practice as veterinary medicine expands to meet the early needs of globalisation.

Owing a dog today, or any pet for that matter, really shows how our animals have become part of our family. Now a days most veterinarians suggest vet insurance, run expensive top-of-the-line technology to diagnosis every condition you bring your dog to the vet for. Many veterinarians are now female, with female enrolment higher than male enrolment at universities. Many program professors are now female as well. Veterinarian programs takes several years to complete, as they cover a wide range of animal disease and health promotion practices for domesticated and live-stock animal care. Universities now providing highly specialised degree programs. The shift towards health promotion and prevention continues and is in full bore! Veterinarian medicine today is proactive! Vaccines are recommended from puppyhood throughout your dog’s life span to prevent disease. Spaying and neutering is done routinely, dog’s are living longer and veterinarian medicine is prepared to care for them with medication, advise and therapeutic healers that offer a range of symptom control and promote longevity.

Owning a Dog in 2020: How Modern Dogs Live

We are at a huge advantage to live in this age of technology and indulgence. There are so many choices of dog food and treats that are as home-grown and healthy as our human grade food. Adding to a bunch of challenging but fun decisions is which brand to chose for your dog.

Mass globalisation has even provided more choices for adaption than ever before! Do you want a pet store puppy? A breeder’s high-end show dog? Adopt a dog from a shelter? Adopt an old dog to enhance the last stage of their life and provide palliation and love? Today, there are so many resources available to help you make the right decision.

Today the pet supply industry is overflowing with modern toys and supplies and gimmicks for your new puppy, or adult dog. Senior dogs are getting treated like never before – with advances in dog health and wellness and insurance coverage. Owning a dog has never presented such complex medical and ethical challenges as it does today.

Mass globalisation has even provided more choices for adaption than ever before! Do you want a pet store puppy? A breeder’s high-end show dog? Adopt a dog from a shelter? Adopt an old dog to enhance the last stage of their life and provide palliation and love? Today, there are so many resources available to help you make the right decision.

Today the pet supply industry is overflowing with modern toys and supplies and gimmicks for your new puppy, or adult dog. And senior dogs are getting treated like never before – with advances in dog health and wellness and insurance coverage. Owning a dog has never presented such complex medical and ethical challenges as it does today.

Dogs have really become part of our families. In some cases, even experiencing separation and divorce of their human owners. Dogs have been known to share time between each humans new home on a regular basis after the separation.

In some families they are the children. As more people chose to remain single, or have relationships and chose not to have children, or can not have children, getting a dog or dogs is becoming a more popular option. Dogs in these situations get all the love and the owners also get emotional fulfilment. Owning a dog is also cheaper than owning human children. Since the average child costs 14,000$ a year until age 18. In comparison, dog ownership costs 1000$ a year per dog. Dog ownership has a shorter time line. Instead of lifetime ownership – with dogs you get a shorter journey of lasting memories and can chose to continue or not at another time. Making dogs a more flexible, affordable investment anytime!

Looking To The Future

In the last 80 years the world has seen great advancements in dog owning, training, supplies and healthcare. There are 89.7 million dog owners in the US in 2017 driving market demand and defining trends in dog care. Even the way veterinarians are educated and run their practice has gone through radical transitions. Technology, innovation and best practice research is the driving force in the animal healthcare system we have today. But still over all this time, a dog’s unconditional love has not changed.

You can think of all the things that dogs can get into either in the house or outside. My sister’s dog got a hold of a frog the other day, put it in her mouth and then spit out the frog. She made sure the frog was okay, but the dog started foaming at the mouth, salivating and all that. They got really scared and called the emergency clinic. They said, “Oh the toad probably got scared and urinated in the dog’s mouth. That’s what caused the foaming.” I’ve known of snakes that secrete a substance that would make a dog foam in the mouth after they touched them, not poisonous snakes but worms, garter snakes, or grass snakes. When dogs get a hold of them, sometimes they foam.

Certain substances they get a hold of in the environment – dirt, for example – will sometimes cause them to foam. You can also get something that’s kind of like foaming but it’s really just hyper-salivation. Some dogs when they get nervous, they will salivate more than usual. I’ve seen dogs that go into the vet clinic and they’re really kind of nervous and they’ll have strings of saliva. I’ve seen other dogs that think they’re going to get fed with tidbits and so that gets their salivary glands going. They’ll either have strings of saliva or foam or blow bubbles. They’re salivating a little bit extra because they’re waiting on that treat that you’re going to give them.

Puppies are the worst about foaming at the mouth. A lot of times, what gets in their mouth they swallow. Older dogs seem to have a little bit more common sense. Many times, they’ll taste something that’s toxic and they’ll spit it out.

Sometimes foaming at the mouth can really be benign. Most of the time, it’s something that they got in their mouth that irritates their mucus membrane. So if your dog is foaming at the mouth please don’t consider it to be a mad raging psycho dog, it’s simply something that they tried to taste or play with that caused it.