Your dog won’t eat. Or your cat is a picky eater. So what on earth do you do?

First, a caveat. No animal will willingly starve itself. But ALWAYS have your pet seen by a vet when there’s a change in behavior. You need to rule out illness before embarking on solving a pet’s eating problem. Be sure to check for a bad tooth as this is often overlooked as a cause of eating issues. The second caveat: Eating problems can be complex and the tips offered here are simplistic. I offer them with 30 years of experience as a dog owner, breeder, handler and fancier in the world of dogs, but you should discuss them with your vet to see if any are a plausible remedy for your pet’s situation.

We’ll start with dogs, and assuming that your dog is healthy but not a good eater, here are some potential reasons why and ideas for fixing it.

If you feed your dog treats during the day, stop. You want your dog hungry at meal times.If your dog is a show dog, remember that bait should be offered in TINY pieces, it’s not meant to be dinner. When it comes to meals, put the dog’s food bowl on the floor, give her 10 minutes to eat it, and if it isn’t touched, pick it up and put it away. Don’t feed again until the next meal, and resist the temptation to give treats. Do this for a whole week because what you’re doing here is behavior modification. Remember, a healthy dog won’t starve itself to death, but a stubborn, healthy dog could modify YOUR behavior if you cave in.

If you change pet foods frequently, stop. Frequent diet changes can create a finicky eater. The dog learns to “holdout” to see what will be offered next. When you find a nutritious diet your pet will eat, stay with it. If you MUST change the pet’s diet, do it gradually over a two week period. Add a small amount of the new diet to the old food, and each day, increase the amount of the new feed while decreasing the amount of the current food. This gradual change will help prevent diarrhea, vomiting and finicky eating.

With picky eaters, it’s important to feed a “super premium” brand of dog food. These foods cost a little more and are made with better ingredients, but they are nutritionally dense. This means that your dog is actually eating less in quantity than the cheaper brands bought at grocery stores (these foods have the nutritional value of bark), but because there are more “calories per cup” in a premium food, they’re actually getting more nutrition. Look for brands such as Merrick’s “Grammy’s Pot Pie” (canned food), California Natural, Prarie, Canidae, Flint River, Nutro, Wellness, Eagle Pack Holistic or Nutrisource.

Mixing kibble with a small amount of canned dog food and water will also make it enticing. This next part is important: The single most natural way to increase a pet’s appetite is to warm their food because it increases the smell and makes it more appetizing.

Perhaps your dog has a health issue or is on a medication that makes him not want to eat. She’s under a vet’s care, but the task of getting nutrition into her falls on you. Now what? First, understand that the less a dog eats, the less he WANTS to eat. Add to that the dog who comes to associate food with nausea and you have a real problem, so the sooner you can get your dog to WANT to eat on his own, the better. So much for the obvious.

We’ll start with the simplest remedies and work our way up to a radical solution that worked for one of my dogs. Assuming that your dog is on a high quality feed but still not eating, you may need to go to the next step: making dog food taste even better.

You don’t want to make these next foods a daily staple, mostly because the high sodium content of many of them would be contra-indicated for dogs in renal failure or with heart issues (if your dog does have kidney issues, check out a really informative web site here.) The following foods have been tried and tested by people in the dog fancy and are suggested ONLY as a means to jump start the appetite in a sick or compromised dog: Sardines, canned cat food, Gerber’s baby food – especially turkey or sweet potato, braunschweiger, Limburger Cheese, broth, pureed liver, Dinty Moore Beef Stew, yogurt, cottage cheese/cream cheese, canned mackerel, scrambled eggs with cream cheese, chicken noodle soup – and even this one: hard-boiled eggs smashed up in French Vanilla yogurt, slightly warmed.

Sometimes, you may need to “jump start” an appetite with something so enticing, it’s irresistible. Here is the original recipe for “Satin Balls,” one of the most requested recipes on Wellpet, Showdogs-L, VetMed, and other popular e-mail lists for serious dog people:

10 pounds of cheap hamburger meat

1 lg. box of Total cereal

1 lg. box oatmeal

1 jar of wheat germ

1 1/4 cup veg oil

1 1/4 cup of unsulfured molasses

10 raw eggs AND shells

10 envelopes of unflavored gelatin

pinch of salt

Mix all ingredients together, much like you would a meatloaf. Divide the batch into 10 quart freezer bags and freeze.Thaw as needed and feed raw! (This is also a good way to put weight on a skinny dog, increase energy, and to alleviate itchy, flaky skin). This isn’t a substitute for meals, it’s meant to whet a dog’s appetite. If the dog is eating this eagerly, start mixing it with kibble gradually. The idea is to wean them off the Satin Balls and onto kibble.

Next, we move on to “fixes” that come in a tube or pill. Remember that the point of these products is to stimulate an appetite and are not long term solutions; We start with Re-Vita whose products are said to be effective for problem appetites; “Pet-Tinic” is a liquid dietary supplement containing iron, copper and 5 essential vitamins. The palable meat-flavored liquid is readily accepted and one “tester” reported that it brought back her pet’s appetite almost immediately, Because of its contents, you’ll want to have your vet’s approval before using this. “Nutri-Cal” is pure nutrition that squeezes out like toothpaste; dogs like its taste and it’s a quick way to get nutrition into a dog. When diluted with water, Dyne High Calorie Dietary Supplement can be used to combat dehydration and provide energy because each ounce provides approximately 150 calories containing vitamins and minerals that maintain constant therapeutic blood levels.

If none of the aforementioned tips work, this is where I get pretty serious because my own philosophy is that a lack of appetite is a lousy reason for a dog to die. What you’ll read next isn’t pleasant – but if you love your dog, you have to get nutrition into her. As far as I know,there are four ways to do this when the dog can’t eat on his own: syringe food into the dog’s mouth, stuff food down the dog’s throat, hook the dog up to an IV, or insert a stomach tube. I’ve done all of them at one time or another. And they all stink, but they’re preferable to the alternative: a dog who wastes away and dies.

Syringing: You’ll need a couple of large syringes from your vet. Using canned food; determine the amount your dog needs to sustain his weight, divide that amount in half and spoon that much into a blender (you and this blender will become inseparable over the coming days). Add enough warm water to blend easily into a very fine puree and for each meal, gently syringe the puree into the side of the dog’s lips. Or, you can cut to the chase. Pry the dog’s mouth open and squeeze the syringe plunger down so that the food trickles to the side and back of the dog’s mouth. It takes a bit of time to get the hang of this since you don’t want the dog to aspirate food into his lungs. Speak to the dog soothingly and praise him when you’re done. Remember, it’s not the dog’s fault he’s unable to eat and it’s only temporary until the appetite comes back.

Stuffing: This was my least favorite means of getting food into a dog. It was messy and degrading. In a nutshell, you make “food bombs” that are narrow enough to slide down the back of the dog’s throat. These “bombs” are a mixture of wet & dry food that’s been pureed into a texture that allows shaping. There are folks out there who are really good at doing this – and some dogs who just don’t eat well become so used to eating this way that they’ll stand calmly, lift up their little heads and open their mouths like guppies in anticipation for the next “bomb.” Since all we care about is getting nutrition into the dog, if this works for you,that’s what counts.

IV: A “no brainer.” At this point, a dog is so ill that this is pretty much the last resort. It’s no substitute for the calories gotten from real food, but sometimes it serves as a band-aid until the dog is back on its feet and able to eat the real thing.

Stomach tube: Proverbially speaking, this is what separates the men from the boys. When I was faced with a dog whose heart medication caused anorexia but who was otherwise healthy, I had but little choice to pull out all the stops. Syringe feeding, food bombs – these were not long term solutions. Guided by my vet, we made an informed decision to insert a stomach tube. Mind you, at the time we thought it would be a short term fix until my dog ate on his own. Keep reading.

The first tube put in was an ugly, brown rubber tube that was SO long, it had to be wrapped around my dog’s mid section and secured with a lady’s tube top when not in use. I prepared the food as if I was going to syringe it into my dog’s mouth, only it was syringed into a tube that had been inserted into his side over the stomach. In less than a week, the dog knew the sound of the blender, knew what was coming and would lie down on his side in preparation for his meal.

Each day before I approached the blender, I always offered the dog his meal in a bowl since it was my fondest desire that the dog eat like a dog. After many weeks, however, I knew this wasn’t going to happen. Ever. At this point, my vet and I had a frank discussion about options and he mentioned a permanent tube, one inserted from the inside out. The “Bard” was a gastronomy device made of silicon that was successfully used to feed disabled children but had never been used in canines. My nearly 14 year old Puli would be the first dog to have the slick silicon “button” inserted. It fit flush against his stomach and a little “lid” flicked open like the flip-top portion of a tube of toothpaste. Compared to what I had been working with, it was a Porsche compared to an Edsel and no one else ever knew it was there.

The tube enabled my dog to live a couple of more years. Feeding him took less than five minutes and afterwards, he would run with the other dogs,bark into the wind, enjoy the sun on his back and know that I adored him. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Because of the seemingly radical step we took to ensure this dog’s survival, it wasn’t something I discussed openly. Too many people out there feel that if a dog can’t eat on his own, he’s not meant to live. To them I say, “Phooey.” The dog wanted to live, to survive and feel the hand of those who loved him rubbing his ears. But he couldn’t eat. His spirit was willing and he would have done anything to please me, but this one thing he couldn’t do. How then, was I to deny him the one thing I could do to help him?

Cats: Needless to say, cats are not like dogs. They can get liver damage from not eating even for just a day or two. When a cat stops eating, their body will start to use its fat stores as fuel. The old fat stores are mobilized to the liver, which should begin fat burning. But when the fat arrives at the liver, the liver doesn’t burn the fat efficiently and it accumulates in the liver.

The resulting liver disorder is known as “hepatic lipidosis”, or “fatty liver disease.” This condition may be suggested when blood tests show impaired liver function. Getting fatty liver disease is not isolated only to cats, and fasting cats don’t always get this condition, they just seem more prone to it when they don’t eat.

But according to the Cornell Online Consultant, there are 454 more possible Diagnoses for Feline Anorexia. Wow. A good web site you can visit here explains the different reasons a cat might not be eating, from acid stomach to ulcers and including fatty liver disease. The bottom line, however,is that you have less “wiggle room” when a cat won’t eat. Tries these tips:

-Warm the food because warmed food has a stronger smell which will make a cat want to eat.

-Handfeeding: Sit with your cat and talk to her. Offer a little piece of food to her.

-Offer special treats like canned or pouched food instead of dry kibble.

-Offer tuna and cheese or milk or cream, all in small amounts.

-Tasty liquids, like water from tuna packed in water or, rarely, oil. Avoid tuna packed in vegetable broth as itmay contain onions. Try clam juice or low-salt chicken broth. Avoid onions and anything made with bouillan as it’s too salty;

-Sprinkle some catnip on the food.

Pull out all the stops and make some Home Made Cat Food with this recipe:

Switch off the protein sources with each batch or two. Switch between:

– Half Pound of minced boneless chicken breast or thigh

– Six Ounces of dark-mean ground turkey or minced turkey

– Half Pound of lean, minced beef

– Half Pound of minced beef, chicken or turkey heart. About three times a week, include one chopped hard-boiled or scrambled egg. Occasionally substitute a five-ounce can of salmon or tuna for the meat. Avoid canned salmon or tuna for cats that are prone to urinary tract infections.

Mix foods together.

There are some drugs that can help stimulate a cat’s appetite including Diazepam (Valium). Other drugs to ask your vet about are Periactin (generic name Cyproheptadine), Serax (generic name Oxazepam) and Dalmane (generic name Flurazepam). All have potential side effects so it’s important to talk with your vet.

Syringe feeding and feeding tubes as mentioned in the section for dogs is also an option for cats.

Good luck and know that you’re not alone. Feeding issues are among the most frustrating of concerns.

There are times when your pet kitty will try to look for a comfortable place to sleep in. They can go into your room and sleep in your bed. When this happens, it can disturb your sleep, especially if you’re not comfortable sleeping with your pet cat. In order to remedy this, you can get a cat bed for your feline.

There are several types of cat bedding that are available in the market. You can simply visit pet shops or, more conveniently, browse through the internet for different kinds of cat beds. You can certainly find a type that is most suitable for your pet cat.

Luxury cat bed

This is a type of cat bed that can provide your feline with utmost comfort while they sleep. Although a bit pricey, they are made with different layers of fabrics, which secure warmth and comfort for your cat. The multiple layers of fabric make sure that the coldness from the floor does not reach your cat. It also is also large enough to accommodate your cat as it sleeps and allows it enough space to stretch. This can also be the best choice to have when you are keeping more than one cat.

Other than the multiple fabrics, there are luxury cat beds that have quilted surfaces that provide added puffiness to it. With the added puffiness and the soft make, it would be a very comfortable bed for your kitty.

Cat basket

This type of cat sleeping area can provide quality comfort for your cat, as well as add to the design of your home. This is ideal for cats and even for small dogs. With added pillows and heat pads, it can become a very cozy place for your pet to sleep in. Willow baskets are very sturdy and can last a long time. Aside from pillows, you can also add cat blankets within the basket. They can add to the softness of the bed and provide warmth for those cold evenings.

Cat window mat

If your cat is one that is fond of snoozing or staying along the windowsill each day, getting a window mat for your cat is a good decision. This can allow your windowsill to be transformed as a padded bed for your kitty. Your cat can comfortably lounge on your windowsill all day with comfort.

Cat radiator beds

These are cat sleeping space that are perfect for the colds seasons, and if you have a radiator at home. Since most cats like to stay in a warm area when they sleep, it might become a bother if they often come into your room to sleep. Placing a cat bed above the radiator would be the greatest way to provide a warm and snuggly place for your cat to sleep in. This can prevent your cat from coming in and out of your bedroom and disturbing your sleep during those cold winter seasons.

So whatever you pick out, you should make sure that it would bring your cat comfort and is suited for your kitty’s needs.

What could be more frustrating to a pet cat owner than litter tray mishaps? Quite often cats that habitually have litter tray accidents are the ones that end up in animal shelters due to their owner’s exasperation! If a cat steadfastly refuses to make use of the litter tray, it means there could be an underlying reason or problem, so potty training your cat or in other words, toilet training your cat, may be the way to go. You may find that some cats that are not litter box trained or do not like using the litter tray are very difficult to toilet train so before going down this road, you may need to discover the reasons why the cat won’t use the litter tray.

One main reason you may find that cats refuse to use the litter tray is because it is dirty. Most cats are very particular when it comes to cleanliness and you may find that they will turn their nose up at a dirty litter tray and will refuse to use it, even if it has used the tray just the one time. So, one of the first things that need checking should you discover an ‘accident’ is the litter tray- make sure it’s not dirty.

Depending on how many cats you own, you may find the problem related to not enough litter trays around. Cats love their own space and privacy, especially when it comes to litter tray usage, so they should have at least one litter tray each. Indeed some veterinarians recommend two litter trays per cat as a kind of stress busting measure, though this would be beyond most people’s idea of a stress free life for themselves! Imagine the daily grind of cleaning out two litter trays per cat!

Accidents may occur because you may be using the wrong kind of litter. Some of our feline friends are particularly fussy when it comes to the smell and texture of a particular type of litter. Also, certain types of litter are very dusty which could cause problems with some cats.

Litter tray shapes and sizes have also been known to cause a few litter tray accidents. Some cats may prefer the privacy of an enclosed litter tray but some kittens or older cats may have problems getting in and out of this type of litter tray. Keep an eye on your cats actions on a litter tray and you may be able to gauge from this what particular tray your cat needs.

If you feel none of the above explanations apply to your cat then there could be an underlying health problem causing the litter tray accidents. The cat may have a urinary tract infection, kidney problems, bladder problems or even diabetes. Visit your local vet so they can give your cat an examination and if a problem does arise then medication can be prescribed for it.

Make sure that if your cat does have an accident of a litter tray nature, to clean the area thoroughly afterwards to remove all offending odours. If you don’t then you may find the cat going back to this particular area as a matter of habit because it can detect the odours and associate the area as a toilet space.

Lastly, another reason your cat may have stopped using a litter tray may have nothing to do with any of the above. Indeed there may be no underlying problem at all. The cat could just be ‘marking’ out its territory and these occurrences may be particularly true in multi-cat households or households where a new pet has just been introduced.

If one of your family members is a short, four legged little guy that says, ‘meow,’ you may have noticed that from time to time his skin can seem irritated. If your cat has problems that make him itch, or you notice that his skin is scaly and dry, he may have sensitive skin. Cats can have sensitive skin just like people, although we don’t think about this all of the time, because all we see on our cats is fur. However, there are many things which might cause your cat to have irritated and dry skin. Before you rush out to the vet for an expensive visit, you should know that there are some things you can do to help your cat feel more comfortable and have healthier skin.

If you give your cat regular baths, make sure that you are not bathing him with a harsh shampoo. Some pet owners use flea shampoo every time they bathe their cats because they want to keep the fleas away. However, there are some pretty harsh ingredients in these types of shampoo. Rather than bathing your cat in a flea shampoo, try some sort of flea collar or repellent. Switch out the flea shampoo for baby shampoo, or a cat shampoo that is designed for sensitive skin. Kitten shampoo is normally more gentle and soothing than other types.

Another thing you can do is switch foods and see if it makes a difference. There is always a possibility that your cat is experiencing a food allergy which might dry out the skin, irritate it, or make your cat itch. If you try a different food for a week, and notice that your cat seems to be doing well as far as his skin goes, you may want to make a permanent switch. Sometimes this is all it takes for your cat to return to normal and to alleviate the skin issues which cause your cat to be itchy and irritated. However, sometimes it has nothing to do with the food, and your cat simply has sensitive skin. In this case, you want to find something that will help heal the skin and make your cat more comfortable.

Shea Butter is great for cats with itchy and dry skin. It is full of healthy vitamins and minerals which protect a cat’s skin and heal it. It keeps your cat’s skin moisturized and alleviates itching and irritation. It’s very simple to use Shea Butter for your cat. Simply rub it between your hands to warm it and melt it a bit, and rub it into your cat’s fur and down to his skin. Make sure that you get a generous amount on the skin, so that the Shea Butter will work to combat skin irritants. It will help get rid of the reason your cat’s experiencing itchy skin, and it will work to make your cat more comfortable while the skin is healing.

We love our cats, and we hate to see them miserable. Using the tips and ideas above will really help your cat get back to normal soon. This makes for a happy cat. When the cat is happy and satisfied, so is his owner!

When people decide on having a pet cat, they are faced with the dilemma of adopting or buying one. They can always buy a kitty from a well-known cat breeder, which is the best option if they are going for a purebred feline. However, there are a number of reasons why a kitten or cat from a shelter or rescue program could be the better choice for them. There are six reasons why it is best to adopt a cat.

This can be beneficial to the health of humans.

Cats, no matter where they come from, can provide many health benefits to their human family.

They can comfort people who are depressed and lonely plus reduce the risk of strokes and heart attacks. Stroking a cat that purrs has proven to lower blood pressure. In addition, when children grow up with a pet cat, there are fewer chances for them to develop allergies and respiratory problems.

In general, cats can ease loneliness and ward off health problems while building routine and structure to the life of their human companions.

Humans are saving the life of a cat.

Cats that were rescued or live in shelters are there for a reason. They were either abused by their owners or found on the road so they need some new place to live. When people adopt a cat, this will prevent it from going through euthanasia when the shelter can no longer accommodate them because of overcrowding.

People can find a perfect pet in them.

One good reason for adopting a cat is that people can choose from a wide range of cats when adopting one from a rescue program or shelter. They come is a large selection of breeds, ages, sizes, colors and coat types so there will surely be one that will be best for their home and family. What’s more, employees of shelters and rescue groups can provide information about a cat’s personality and habits.

People can save on expenses.

Majority of cats that come from a shelter/rescue program are up-to-date when it comes to vaccination, check-up, neutering and spraying. People can save on such expenses and just need to pay the adoption fee, food plus other home-life essentials.

There is no need to worry when it comes to grooming.

Cats are known to groom themselves, so people do not need to spend much or exert effort in that regard. Certainly, cats with long hair need coat care on a regular basis but that will not be a problem with short-coated kitties.

People will have a new family member, which is low in maintenance.

Cats are not as labor-intensive as dogs. There are some cat owners that like to take their cats out for walks but most cats just like to sleep 16 to 20 hours daily and they do not mind if they stay home all day. In case people will leave for a number of days, this will not be a problem with their pet cat since felines are self-sufficient and they can manage to be alone as long as they have lots of food and fresh water so there is no need for a pet sitter.

It may take time to find the right cat for a home but people can be assured that the one they choose will be a source of joy and comfort to them. When a cat is happy, the home will be happy as well. A feline who leaves a shelter/rescue program will be content to live with a loving family.

Cats do not have to resort to physical force to be victorious in a conflict. They often use their most subtle and safest technique in a rival face-off – staring.

Cats interpret staring as intimidation and rivalry. That explains why when a group of friends is visiting your house, the person who does not want to get too close to your cat may be approached by the little feline whereas cat lovers who are anticipating to meet your cat do not get his attention. People who are not a fan of cats tend to look away or give no eye contact to them. Cats find this non threatening. On the other hand, cat lovers love looking directly into their eyes, causing them to feel intimidated or threatened.

When cats are in rivalry, they initially try to out-stare each other. If one of the cats eventually looks away, it usually signals surrender. However, if prolonged staring cannot resolve the problem, it may progress into swatting or wrestling on the ground while continue to stare at each other.

The dominant cat will stare down the other cat until his opponent flees. Once they start staring at each other, they would drop everything aside in order to focus their attention. They will remain in a high tension state until one starts blinking and walking away.

Cat owners are often encouraged to slowly blink or wink their eyes (e.g. sleepy eyes) when directly looking toward their cats. This sends a message that you are not a threat and they should not be alarmed. However, cats always prefer their owners using their peripheral vision to look at them rather than a direct gaze.

Cats’ pupils constrict or dilate according to light. Also, they use their pupils to communicate their moods with others. When a cat’s pupils are dilated, it conveys fear, mild to aggressive excitement. However, when a cat is angry, his pupils will constrict into a line, meaning ready to attack. The reason they narrow the pupils is to get a better focus on their rival and protect their eyes in case of a physical combat.

When cats are relaxed, they tend to keep their eyes half-opened as if they are falling asleep.

It’s often tough to tell what a cat’s feelings are. For example, how do you know that a cat loves you? Cats don’t talk, so you have to find another way to tell. Here are some tips on getting in touch with your cat’s feelings.

1. By Her Tail

A cat’s tail often displays a good expression of how she feels. If her tail is beating hard against you or some nearby object, she may be a bit tense about something.

But if her tail is upright or curled around you, or it’s playfully striking you, this probably indicates the cat is happy. She is telling you she enjoys being with you and feels relatively calm for the moment.

2. Purring

Most, if not all, cat owners know that purring is a sign of a cat’s contentment. The louder the purr, the more she’s enjoying your company.

Now don’t be misled if your cat does not purr; this does not mean your cat hates you. It just means that perhaps your cat never purrs, or maybe she simply doesn’t feel like it. But please don’t be discouraged if she doesn’t purr.

3. She Follows You Around

A great sign that a cat loves you is by showing you that she wants to be close to you all the time. She will follow you around everywhere, to every room in your house.

Your cat will want to be the center of attention lots of times. So if you are doing some work on your kitchen table, for instance, she will jump on your table to watch. If you are taking a bath, she will want to be in the bathroom with you, with her paws on the bathtub’s edge. She will want to be your prime attention.

4. Your Cat Won’t Let You Leave the House

Say you are going to work. As you leave and head for your front door, your cat plops right in front of you.

Your cat is telling you that she doesn’t want you to go. She knows you have to go, but she doesn’t want you to. She wants you to stay and keep her company.

And there’s nothing you can do except step over her and leave. Or you can pick her up and cuddle her for a second, and let her know you love her and will miss her. She will miss you too.

5. Kneading On You

Cats do a lot of kneading, but if they do their kneading on your lap, it is a sign of trust. They see you as a mother because as kittens, they knead their mother to receive milk flow.

Kneading is also a sign of marking you. But for sure, it is a sign of love and trust by your cat.

There are other signs that cats use to show their love for you. For example, bringing you gifts (sometimes formerly live ones), talking to you in Cat Language, and staring at you. Hopefully, you can understand your cat’s love for you and you will love and care for your furry one very much.

It’s no surprise that cats are some of the most treasured pets in the United States. Between their sweet charms and intelligent personalities, they’ve got it all going for them. But what if there were a few things that your cat wanted to tell you? Here are 7 things we think your cat would want to be sure you knew about them — straight from the cat’s mouth!

1. I love the outdoors, but I’ll live longer if you keep me inside.

The outdoors seems more like my natural habitat, with all kinds of wonders for me to explore and stalk. Yet, it isn’t the best place for me to live. Did you know that I only have about a 2-5 year life-span while living outdoors? That’s awfully short! However, if you keep me indoors in the warmth and kindness of your home, I can live to be up to 17 years old! Which means that’s about 15 extra years of sweet cuddles and kisses from me just for you.

2. I meow just for you, not for other cats.

Cats don’t need to meow at other cats aside from the occasional hissing fits we get into when we feel threatened. We only meow at you humans! When we are kittens, we meow to tell our mom’s when we need food or a little extra comfort. As adult cats, we don’t need to meow except to talk to you to tell you when we are hungry, want to say hello or if something is wrong. And, the more you talk to us, the more we will talk to you!

3. I need more than dry cat food, please.

I don’t just look like a tiger… I need to eat like one, too! As a cat, I’m a true carnivore which means I need a meat-based diet. Of course, I like to eat dry food to munch on during the day but it’s not the healthiest diet if I only eat dry food. I am more prone to obesity and diabetes than my furry friends that live on a wet-food diet.

4. I need you to spend some engaging time with me once in a while — I get bored.

When you leave for work, I get sad! I love companionship. If I don’t have a sister or brother to play, I need companionship even more. When you come home, please don’t just play on your phones or watch tv. Spend a little time with me and engage my senses! Play with some cat toys with me and give me a little exercise while also giving us a chance to bond — just human and cat. I’ll not only love you for it but it will also tire me out a little bit so I’m ready for bedtime.

5. Sitting with me can help reduce your stress and the risk of a heart attack or stroke.

Did you know that owning me cuts your risk of stroke by a third? It’s true! My sweet little furry spirit can help reduce your stress and anxiety and can also help heal you with the vibrations from my purrs.

6. Don’t get mad at me for scratching, I HAVE to scratch!

When you see me scratching at your furniture, it’s not because I want to destroy your couch. I really just need a good place where I can stretch my feet and claws out! I also need to shed some of my outer claw layers when they get old and brittle. Sometimes I scratch things to mark my territory by leaving claw marks and a scent. Please don’t be mad at me, it’s my instinct! A good way to remedy this is to get some scratching trees or posts. This way I know there’s a safe place where I can stretch and scratch on a daily basis.

7. Just because you call my name doesn’t mean I’ll come.

No matter how cute my cat name is, you can call it a million times and I still might just keep staring out the window. Trust me, I know my name. I’ve learned it from all the times you’ve told it to me. Because I’m a cat, I have no compulsion to obey you like Fido next door does. If you call a dog, he’ll come running right away because you are higher up in the hierarchy. For me, none of that matters. I remember everything, from the last time you made me take that yucky medicine to the other time when you took me to the vet. It doesn’t mean I don’t love you, I just choose to do things my way.

Hopefully, these tips for taking care of a cat will help you grow closer to your little feline and also help your kitty live the healthiest life they can so they can spend more time being a companion for you.

When‌ ‌you‌ ‌think‌ ‌about‌ ‌your ‌cat’s diet,‌ ‌do‌ ‌you‌ ‌think‌ ‌that‌ ‌any‌ ‌food‌ they’ll eat ‌must be ‌good‌ ‌food?‌ ‌

While‌ ‌it’s‌ ‌true‌ ‌that‌ ‌cats ‌will‌ ‌often gobble‌ ‌down‌ ‌things‌ ‌that‌ ‌we‌ ‌consider‌ ‌junk food,‌ ‌it‌ ‌doesn’t‌ ‌mean‌ ‌you‌ should‌ ‌feed‌ ‌them‌ ‌scraps‌ ‌or‌ ‌bargain‌ ‌food.‌ ‌Feeding a good cat diet is important for your feline friend’s health and well-being.

Often cheaper cat food has ingredients in it that are unsafe, full of toxic preservatives, humectants, and flavoring agents to entice cat to eat it.

You‌ ‌might‌ ‌be‌ ‌saving‌ ‌money‌ ‌in‌ ‌the‌ ‌short‌ ‌term,‌ ‌but‌ ‌you’ll‌ ‌be‌ ‌setting‌ ‌yourself‌ ‌up‌ ‌for‌ ‌hefty‌ ‌vet‌ ‌bills‌ ‌in‌ ‌the‌ ‌long‌ ‌run,‌ ‌and‌ ‌also‌ ‌creating‌ ‌serious‌ pain and ‌discomfort‌ ‌for‌ ‌your‌ ‌furry‌ ‌companion.‌ ‌

After all, they‌ ‌are‌ ‌an‌ ‌important‌ ‌member‌ ‌of‌ ‌your‌ ‌family. Cats are known as healers, and they often ‌have‌ ‌‌different‌ ‌way‌s ‌of‌ ‌sharing‌ ‌their‌ ‌affection‌.‌ ‌

3‌ ‌reasons‌ ‌to‌ ‌choose‌ ‌a‌ ‌healthy‌ ‌cat‌ ‌diet‌ ‌

Cats,‌ ‌like‌ ‌humans,‌ ‌won’t‌ ‌thrive‌ ‌on‌ ‌a‌ ‌fast-food,‌ ‌high‌ ‌carbohydrate, kibble‌ ‌diet.‌ ‌

Eating the wrong cat diet, they can‌ ‌fall‌ ‌victim‌ ‌to‌ ‌arthritis,‌ ‌diabetes,‌ ‌heart‌ ‌disease,‌ ‌kidney‌ ‌disease,‌ ‌liver‌ ‌disease,‌ ‌and‌ ‌obesity,‌ ‌just‌ ‌like‌ ‌people.‌ ‌

The only difference between us and felines is, once they’re living in captivity, they have very little control over their diet. Cats rely on us to provide them with healthy food, especially when they are living indoors.

Cats are natural predators… their diet has to mimic that fact, so here are three reasons to choose a good cat diet that will extend your pet’s life.

1. Dental health

Just like humans, many health complications emerge in house cats with poor dental hygiene.

Your cat might have bad breath – which is unpleasant – but the infections that can cause halitosis might be much more serious than you think for their immune system and overall health.

Kittens lose their baby teeth between four and six months. During that time, there are gaps in their mouth that are bacteria magnets.

You probably go to the dentist regularly, to be sure your teeth and gums are in good shape.

But how is your cat maintaining their oral health? They need good quality food and treats that aid in removing plaque and stimulate their gums to maintain the strength of their teeth and the cleanliness of their mouth.

2. Cats are carnivores

Like it or not, your cat is a hunter, a predator, a carnivore. They will never do well with a vegetarian or vegan diet.

So, while you may have chosen to eliminate meat from your diet and have replaced the protein with bean, meat alternatives, and supplements, your cat needs animal protein.

It’s a source of a vital amino acid – taurine – that aids in the development of strong muscles, including the heart.

Fish-based cat food may work well – it’s loaded with Omega fatty acids that fuel your feline’s body… and suits their digestive system. However, most fish has been contaminated with heavy metals and other nasty toxins or parasites, and is very unhealthy. Offering fish as an occasional treat to a healthy cat should be fine, but beware a steady diet of it.

Avoid foods that have an excess of fillers, like wheat and barley. They might fill your cat’s belly, but they won’t provide the protein they need for healthy development. And they may lead to obesity and diabetes, and many other problems.

Also, cats naturally are designed to hunt and eat their prey raw, which has not been baked in an oven or processed at high heat in a tin can. Prey creatures have blood, moisture (water) and partially digested food in their intestines, bones and organs and so much more.

When you decide what to feed your kitty, go with wet high quality food, not dry cardboard style kibble. Some cats do well enough with quality wet food, and some do better eating raw food.

3. Cats need hydration

There’s nothing wrong with feeding your feline dry food diet occasionally as a treat or food topping. It’s easier to store, usually less expensive, and you have more options for ingredients that suit your cat’s palate.

But remember, they also need ready access to water, and they can overload on carbs, just like us… so follow the instructions on the package and pay attention to your kitty’s needs.

On the flipside, the wrong wet food can rob your cat of the roughage they need to keep their digestive system running smoothly. You’ll often see outdoor cats and dogs eating grass… they’re simply trying to get their guts working again so they can clean up their insides.

If you have an indoor cat, consider keeping cat grass (or add some other source of fiber to their food) that will help them keep their digestive tract on track.

Your cat can’t go to the grocery store

Your cat has basic dietary needs… and then they develop their own tastes, just like children. In fact, there is a phase as they grow up where they learn what’s good to eat and what’s not good to eat, and after that it can be quite difficult to change their mind about what’s acceptable and what’s not!

However, unlike your kids who will grow up and be able to shop on their own and satisfy their taste buds, and – hopefully – make wise dietary choices…

Your cat can’t do the same thing. It’s up to you to communicate with them, explain why various foods are good for them and why some aren’t, and then fulfill their dietary needs.

You might think that good quality food is too expensive, that it’s too much trouble to research the alternatives…

… but think about the pain you might put your cat companion through if they end up with kidney stones, ulcers, or abdominal cancer because you’ve overloaded their body with toxic food.

Cats are designed to hunt and eat little bits during the day, but free grazing (eating whenever they wish) with a poor quality kibble is a bad idea. Smaller more nutritious wet food meals make for a healthier, long lived kitty.

It helps if you can talk to your cat, and find out what suits their palate, and what meets their nutritional needs, and what makes them feel sick or causes pain.

Remember, your cat goes through growth phases, just like we do. Food that suits them at six months won’t keep them fit when they’re five years old… or ten, or twenty.

You can set your cat up for a long, healthy life without stressful visits to a veterinary clinic by feeding them a quality cat food diet.

If you’d like to learn more about feline health, reach out to us.

Persian cats are long-haired stunning cats. That being said, according to the Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA), in 2015 the Persian cat breed was ranked as the 2nd most popular breed in in the United States. The first most popular breed is the Exotic. The Exotic breed looks like a short haired Persian. As a result, I think these people really love Persians also.

NOTE: The Exotic breed was created by crossing a domestic short hair with a Persian. Hence, eventually, domestic short-hairs BECAME exotic because of the Persian in them. (So I suspect the lower hair maintenance of the short hair may have some influence there… Additionally, prior to the creation of the Exotic short hair, domestic short hair cats were not allowed to enter cat shows.)

The Persian cat has a distinctive appearance: a large, round head; large, round eyes; a short nose; full cheeks; and small ears with rounded tips. The head is supported by a short, thick neck and a deceptively sturdy, muscular body. A Persian cat’s legs are short, thick and strong with large, round, firm paws. The tail is fluffy and proportional to the length of the cat’s body.

Appearance

Persian cats can come in different “looks”. The selective breeding process carried out by breeders has allowed the development of a wide variety of coat colors. It has also led to the creation of increasingly flat faced (or Peke-face) Persians. Favored by many cat fanciers, this head structure can bring with it a number of health problems. There have been efforts by some breeders to preserve the older type of cat, the traditional breed, having a more pronounced muzzle, which is more popular with the general public. These are called “Doll-face” Persians.

“Doll-face” Persians are said to have a more old-fashioned appearance, with a face that is not as flat as the show Persian or the Peke-face Persian.

Environment

The dignified and docile Persian is known for being quiet and sweet. She is an ornament to any home where she can enjoy sitting in a lap-surely her rightful place-being stroked by those who are discerning enough to recognize her superior qualities, and playing house with kind children who will gently comb her hair, wheel her around in a cart, wagon, or buggy, then serve her tea at their parties. Persians are affectionate but discriminating. They reserve their attention for family members and those few guests whom they feel they can trust.

Persian cats and are sedate cats who prefer a serene home where little changes from day to day. Additionally, they are more content when they are not in a loud environment.

Persians use their large, expressive eyes and a voice that can be described as soft, pleasant and musical Persian cats let their simple needs be known: regular meals, a little playtime with a catnip mouse or feather teaser, and lots of love, which they return tenfold.

Because Persian Cats’ legs are short, they are less likely to climb excessive heights, but as kittens, they will try more than as adults. Getting them their own furniture and toys is helpful to them. When you are at work or are busy around the house, the Persian is content to adorn a chair, sofa or bed until you are free to admire her and give her the attention she willingly receives but never demands.

Care and Grooming

The most important thing to understand about caring for a Persian cat is the need for daily grooming. That long, beautiful coat doesn’t stay clean and tangle-free on its own. It must be gently but thoroughly combed and brushed every day, and regular bathing-at least once a month-is a good idea. Clipping their nails regularly is also easy to do.

Litter boxes must also be kept scrupulously clean. A Persian cat often supervise this activity, and immediately check behind your work after box cleaning. They may come while you are cleaning the box and watch. When you finish, they may go in side, sniff around, look at you, as if to say they approve, then leave. Hence, make sure you do a good job – daily is preferred.

Persian kittens and Persian cats are not meant to live outside. They are exclusive indoor cats only.

Excessive tearing can be a problem in this breed. The simple solution is to wipe the corners of the eyes clean daily. This prevents under-eye stains from forming.

All Persian kittens for sale at our Cattery are indoor only Persian Cats.

Be certain they will bring you much joy and love, will climb on your lap or nuzzle in the crook of your arm – just to be near you.