STEAMING POTATOES
These days the pressure cooker is rarely an essential part of the battery de cuisine. Potatoes cooked in a pressure cooker take 5-6 minutes but precision cooking is vital, otherwise the results are slop. Specific directions are given with each cooker but as a general rule only a few tablespoons of water are needed and it should be brought to the boil before the potatoes are put in the pot. Once the cooking time has finished, the cooker must be cooled immediately. From the point of view of nutrient value, pressure cooking of potatoes is not recommended unless the cooking liquor is served with the potatoes. Best results are had by leaving the potatoes unpeeled. During steaming, moisture continually condenses on the surface of the vegetables and sugars, minerals, vitamin C and the B vitamins can dissolve in the moisture.
Steaming without pressure takes a little longer than boiling but the results are lighter and the flavor seems to intensify. But, because the potatoes take 10-15 minutes longer to cook there is a greater loss of vitamins (especially C) than when potatoes are boiled.
The cheapest steamers come from Japan and China. The Japanese version is a collapsible metal basket with short legs that fits into any saucepan. Chinese steamers are rustic bamboo baskets, available in various sizes, with a separate metal stand.
BEST VARIETIES FOR BOILING AND STEAMING
Jersey Royal, Belle de Fontenay (La Ratte, Cornichon), Bintje, Kipfler, Pink Fir Apple, Charlotte and any Cyprus, Egyptian, Dutch or Belgian variety or any freshly dug potato.
An 8 oz (225 g) serving of boiled potatoes without butter averages 160 calories.
BOILED POTATOES
Take care to cook even-sized potatoes, and boil them in their skin unless you wish to ‘turn’ them to give a uniform shape. Allow between 15 and 30 minutes depending on the size of the potato before you check if they are ready. Quantities over 2 lb (900 g) in one pan will take longer.
Put new potatoes into boiling salted water, old into cold. Simmer gently. Drain carefully, peel if necessary and toss in butter; garnish with parsley or mint and serve. If you see Pommes de Terre Persillées on a French menu, it means potatoes boiled and sprinkled with parsley and melted butter. Occasionally bacon is included.
BOILED PINK FIR APPLES
This old English variety with its pink skin, nobles and distinctive tuber shape is the closest this country has to the dense-skinned waxy varieties of France. It lends itself especially well to salads but simply boiled it is good enough to serve alone or as an accompaniment to any dish whatsoever. The skin is firm and tough but peels away very easily after boiling.
