Handicrafts are often notable for their uniqueness since they are made by hand. They are the reflection of a culture and tradition of the individuals who made them, too. Their beauty and quality may depend on the aesthetic principles and hard work of the crafter. Indian handicrafts can range from batik to wood carvings, lacquered wood, handwoven textiles and tarkashi (metal inlay in wood). Here is an overview of those crafts and how or where they are made:

Batik – The method of creating coloured designs on fabric by dyeing is known as batik. The term is derived from ‘tik’, and it is Javanese for ‘to dot’, and while batik originated in Java, Indonesia, it easily became a part of Indian handicraft. Some of the best batik printers in India are from Bhairavgarh, a small town on the riverbanks of Kshipra. Craftsmen from Rajasthan and Gujrat arrived there around 400 years ago when the Mughals reigned. The method they use for dyeing is similar to the traditional method used in Indonesia, where parts of the fabric is covered with wax to prevent dye from affecting those areas. No batik pattern is the same as another, so each product is considered one-of-a-kind.

Peetalnagri – A particular type of Indian handicraft that is made with brass is called, ‘peetalnagri’, a name derived from Peetal Nagri or ‘City of Brass’. It is an ancient art form of brassware that easily attained a national and international following, particularly by the British and the Mughals. It is notable for its intricate Persian patterns and the development and ornamentation processes, which make every product unique. Contemporary artisans have begun experimenting with new metals.

Tarkashi – Known as the ‘art of inlaying brass metal wire in wood’, this Indian handicraft is practiced in Uttar Pradesh where wood carving and wood inlaying are common. Tarkashi work was introduced to the region by Kashmiri craftsmen who visited in the 1860s. Some of the earliest products with Tarkashi are wooden slippers (Khadaun), which pious Hindus wear. Inlaying and engraving were once performed by the same artisans, but these days, both are already considered specialized skills.

Wood lacquering – Turned wood products are lacquered in bright and vibrant hues to enhance their beauty. Recently, the Indian handicraft that involves wood lacquering have become popular with international customers. It is considered a Geographical Indication by the World Trade Organisation. Also dealing in various handicraft products which includes wooden handcrafted home décors, lighting & textiles like sarees and dress materials.

Over the time, bathroom interiors have gained considerable amount of importance. A modern bathroom should not only be functional, but also aesthetic. Hence forth a lot of importance is placed nowadays on the bathroom fittings.

A bathroom can never be complete without towel bars. They are one of the most important bathroom accessories. Towel bars are bars to keep the towels. They are racks, usually hung on the wall, and are used to keep both dry and wet towels. Dry towels can be folded and kept in the bars so that they can be readily accessed. Wet towels can be spread over the bars for drying. This prevents wet towels from becoming soggy and the subsequent growth of molds on them. Towel bars are usually made of metal and they have a chrome, nickel, brass or bronze plating to prevent rusting. Towel bars come in two sizes. One is 18 inches (45.72 cm)long and the other is 24 inches(60.96 cm) long. The eighteen inches one is used to hang hand towels and they are placed either near the bathroom sink or in the kitchen. The longer bar, that is the twenty four inches one is used to hang body towels and are placed in the bathrooms. Towel bars also come in single bar and double bar designs.

Towel bars are very simple in terms of their structure. They usually consist of a rod, suspended a few inches from the wall, which is held on the two sides by two posts. The posts are the holders for the rod and they are screwed to the wall.

While fixing the bars on the wall, it is extremely important to keep in mind that the bar should be fixed properly. Fixing the bar to the wall firmly is important, not only because wet towels are heavy, but also because people often tend to use towel bars as handholds. Hence it is not only about the weight of the wet towels, but also human body weight. The posts should be fixed properly. In an ideal scenario, the posts should be nailed to the wooden boards that are usually hidden behind the dry wall. In case that kind of a facility is not available, towel bars should be fixed with the help of a wall anchor. Quite often, towel bars are first fixed to a sturdy board and then the board is fixed to the wall for extra support.

Sometimes, they are also fixed with the help of a pre-fixed bracket. Two brackets are fixed to the wall with help of two screws each. Then the two posts of the towel bar are fixed on these brackets with single screws. This not only makes the towel bar firmly attached to the wall, but also, the bar can be taken off and changed at any point of time quite easily.

Besides the towel bar, there are a few options available for use. One can use the standing towel rack, that usually is a rack that stands on the ground and hence one is saved from the entire issue of getting the rack fixed to the wall. Another option is the towel ring, which is a ring that is fixed to the wall and the towel in hung from the ring. A third option is a towel warmer that looks like a ladder. Towels, hung on it are dried by the heat generated from the warmer.

Now go ahead and choose the one that you find to be convenient. To begin your hunt for the perfect towel rack, start by searching over the internet. You will get to see the catalogs of various bathroom accessories. Choose according to your budget and your need. Go ahead, make your bathroom stylish and functional with the perfect bathroom fittings and then finish off with accessories complementing the rest of the decor.

We all know how effective tubes fished on internal weighted heads can be. The fact is that if you only use them this way, you are seriously hampering the true potential of this bait and its versatility. I’ve discovered, many years ago that fishing a tube in weed choked waters was a great way to catch fish. The problem I encountered was the open hook continuously and unmercifully getting snagged all day long. To combat this, I simply tried to rig the tube on a Texas rig. Ultimately I settled on a brass and glass type rig that has always scored well for me. This rig mixes sexy tubes, scent and sound to form a complete package of bass grabbing attention.

Equipment: 6-6 medium fast action spinning rod. The best rods for this method are high modulus models with a solid backbone. I use a Kistler Helium LTA 6-6 He66MS. This rod provides me with light overall weight and a soft tip but also the brute gorilla strength to yank larger bass towards the boat. Not finesse fishing you say? Well consider that I normally use 8lb line and occasionally drop that down to lighter 6lb Yo Zuri Hybrid. Even in the thickest cover, I’ve gotten by with the lighter lines. You could utilize a 20lb super line like Sea King’s 20/6 or 14/4. These will help slice through vegetation with ease. I prefer a fairly fast ratio reel. For tubing, I go with Shimano, no surprise, Sustain 2500 FD. This reel is as dependable as they come.

Terminal Tackle: My tube rig works best with brass Weenie Weights. I like 1/16 or 1/8 Top Brass Tackle Weenie Weights painted black. The weenie weight is simply a shorter, wider sliding bullet weight that is made of brass. This produces much better sound amplification and is environmentally friendly. For hooks, I use either Sugoi 3/0, 3/0 Owner Rig n hook or a 3/0 Gamakatsu EWG. What sets this method apart from standard Texas rigs is that I use a fire polished faceted glass bead. This accomplishes two things. First the bead reflects light and flashes. I truly believe that this is one of the best attributes of the rig. Secondly, the bead and the weenie weight slap back and forth, thus sometimes attracting fish to its location. The fire polished, faceted glass beads are super hard and will not cut your line.

The Tube: The ONLY tube I use is a Wicked Tube by Micro Munch Tackle. This bait is a thick walled hand dipped tube that holds the hook nicely. The double thick wall gives the tube durability and is necessary in the thick cover to prevent tearing. Fish do not hold on to the bait, they eat it. This tube is dipped in a salt impregnated plastic mix and then Kick N Bass scent is added to the plastic before the tubes are molded. This produces a tube that is noticeably stinky.

This tube rigged on a Sugoi 3/0 hook has figured for me in almost every tournament I’ve fished. If you have been paying attention so far, you will notice that this rig employs sight, scent, taste, and sound to tantalize Mr. Bass. If you’ve ever fished with the Wicked Tube you surely have noticed the oil slick the bait produces in the water. Its odor will have every cat in the neighborhood clawing to get in your dry storage box to get at them. I prefer the standard 4″ tube but occasionally I will upgrade to the larger El Gordo style tube. This is a quad dipped tube that is extremely durable and adds insane bulk. It is truly different and I think that is why it works well for me, not too many other anglers throw it regularly. Its size alone may intimidate some. I’ve noticed it catches bigger fish as well.

Colors: I prefer the following colors; Green Pumpkin, Black Grape, Water Melon Magic, June Bug, Smoke Purple Flake, Road Kill Camo, and Black Red Flake. I match the glass bead to the bait. Black, Brown, Purple, or Green beads will match all the previously mentioned colors.

Rigging: This rig can be set up just like the traditional Texas rig. Slide the Weenie Weight up the line followed by the glass bead. It isn’t necessary to peg the weight or the bead. Next tie the hook on with a Palomar knot for strength. Bury the hook point about a 1/4 inch dead center in the head of the tube. Pull the hook through the side of the bait until the hook eye enters the tube head. Next pop the hook back into the side and pull the point through, penetrating through the opposite side of the tube (back out again). The tube should be straight. The point of the hook should be exposed and tight to the fleshy side of the tube. The exposed point allows for easier penetration on the hook set. The hook doesn’t have to penetrate the extra plastic in the tube, thus sticks into the fishes’ mouth with minimal effort.

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“With this rig I usually notice one of two things: either I feel the bass chewing on the tube, similar to a plastic worm pick up, or I don’t feel the bait at all which means a bass has picked it up and is usually moving off with it.”

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The Presentation

This tube is very effective in 8ft of water or less. Its light weight won’t allow it to be fished effectively beyond that depth. Because it is weedless, it can be fished just about anywhere and if you add a heavier weight, you can surely probe the depths with it. I prefer docks, boathouses, any overhead cover, inlet points, and flats. Of course the rig will work anywhere provided shallow cover can be found. The rig works when skipped under or through cover. This is what sets the rig apart from conventional tube rigs. The tube itself is weightless. When cast the Weenie weight falls away from the bait and slowly drifts to the bottom. The tube flutters to the bottom even slower. Its slow fall is a crucial trait to its success. Standard tube rigs that are internally weighted spiral to the bottom.

They are directly weighted and fall throughout the strike zone faster then the Texas rig. As the weight of the Texas tube rig slides forward, it slowly pulls the bait along. This is the reason I don’t use bait casting gear. Flipping and pitching are not accurate presentations for this rig. I aim to skip my bait past the target so it slowly falls through cover. After I cast to a piece of cover, I try to maintain a tight line because very often the bait is struck just as it enters the water. If I don’t feel a strike, then I may jiggle the rod tip to get the bead and weight to make some noise. I then let the tube fall on controlled slack line and cover the lower column of the water I’m working.

I don’t fish this bait in open water as I would prefer internally rigged tubes for that. I target specific visible cover and try to pick it apart as best as I can despite the “falling away from cover” action the bait has. Getting the bait to skip is the real art of an accurate presentation with this rig. Sometimes I will try to crash bait through cover so it actually passes by my target. This is because a forceful cast won’t allow the weight to create drag on the cast and keeps the bait on target. The bait will pass through the cover and remain in the strike zone longer. You might also be able to feather a skip cast to put the bait right on the target. The 1/16 oz weight won’t pull the bait as much as a heavier size.

Get the brass weight and glass working to produce some sound. I move the rod tip ever so slightly, perhaps only an inch or two at a time. You do not want to over exaggerate your movements. The slight movements are key because you do not want to physically move the bait while you are attempting to make it sound off.

The Bite: Many tube bites simply feel like a mushy wet rag on the end of the line sensation. With this rig I usually notice one of two things: either I feel the bass chewing on the tube, similar to a plastic worm pick up, or I don’t feel the bait at all which means a bass has picked it up and is usually moving off with it. This happens because the tube is weightless and the bass doesn’t feel resistance in the form of an unnatural internal weight. Normally the line will just start moving off. Polarized sunglasses are a must for this technique. It is important with this and most other jig techniques to “weigh the line”. What this means is to learn what the bait feels like in the water. Usually any lighter or heavier sensation is a strike. When I detect a strike I really like to crank the hook home. Even though I tend to use light line and set my drag tight, I rarely break off on a fish. Normally if I hang a monster, I will disengage the anti-reverse and back reel. I use a sweeping set as this allows me to move more line than the standard over the shoulder jig jerk. I’m not exaggerating when I say that fish don’t spit the tube out. They just don’t. They really do eat it.

Seasons

The Texas rig tube excels during the early spring and through early fall. I simply prefer to fish other baits at different times of the year. It is an excellent big fish attractor because it has a thick profile and doesn’t give off many, if any, negative cues. Rigged with a glass bead, it appeals to all bass senses’ and like I stated earlier, “These tubes get eaten”. The combination of salt and scent are hard for any bass to reject.

Gear Breakdown: Texas Tube Fishing Insanity

Rod: Kislter Helium LTA 6-6 M He66MS

Reel: Shimano Sustain FD 2500

Line: Yo Zuri Hybrid 8lb

Hook: Sugoi or Gamakatsu 2/0 or 3/0 EWG

Tube: Micro Munch Tackle Wicked Tube 4″

Terminal: Top Brass Tackle Brass weight and fire polished faceted Glass bead

Alternatives

The Texas rig tube is a very consistent producer. If by chance bass want a different look, there are several alternatives. I’m a big fan of finesse techniques from the West coast. My sleeper tube rig is the same rig, but with the bead pegged 18 inches above the hook. The sinker is still free to slide and a striking fish won’t feel extra weight. This rig can be crept along the bottom similar to a Carolina rig. This is a noisier presentation as the bead and weight are always in contact.

We all know that tubes are very versatile. I have used these tubes to work bass on inside/outside weed lines with amazing consistency the last few seasons. This is one of those great baits that nobody should be without. It can be especially important to guys who do not prefer to throw a jig.

copyright 2005 Micro Munch Tackle

No part of this article may be reproduced without the written permission and consent of the author

Umbrella stands have adorned the entryway of homes and public places for generations. While serving as a convenient place to store wet umbrellas, umbrella stands help to keep floors dry to diminish accidental slips and falls. While homeowners have used simple devices to store umbrellas including milk cans and buckets, these devices may not serve to compliment the appearance of the entryway.

Umbrella Stand Materials

Umbrella holders fashioned from brass or copper have been a traditional favorite of homeowners due to the beauty and wide range of available finishes. Brass or copper umbrella holders can be found in highly polished mirror finishes, muted antique finishes, and textured or hammered designs. Brass and copper have the added benefit of being highly corrosion resistant for years of worry free use without rusting. Another popular choice for umbrella holders is porcelain or ceramic materials. Ceramic stands offer a great variety of finish designs. Glazed ceramic materials are virtually rustproof and can withstand years of continuous use without fading or degradation. If selecting a ceramic stand, to avoid breakage make sure the diameter and weight of the stand are sufficient to avoid accidental tipover when removing umbrellas. Iron umbrella stands are typically the most affordable stands and offer high durability and a great variety of styles. Most iron materials are enameled or painted and can rust with exposure to moisture from umbrellas. Holders made of iron can be simply restored by removing the rust and painting with a high-quality enamel. The newest generation of stands are constructed of stainless steel which is both durable and rust resistant.

Selecting the Best Stand Size

For small home or apartment use, a holder with a diameter of eight inches is normally adequate to store up to four umbrellas if the umbrellas are not tightly wrapped. For home of office use, a holder with a diameter of nine inches is a popular choice and is normally adequate to store from four to seven umbrellas if the umbrellas are not tightly wrapped. For a larger office, a diameter of ten inches or more is generally required. As a general rule of thumb, a stand with a larger diameter is more resistant to tipover. A diamter of nine inches or greater is best for use in a public area. A standard height for umbrella receptacles for home or office use is twenty inches or taller. Where full size umbrellas are encountered, as in a large office or public area, a receptable should be at least twenty inches tall.

Foot rails are very common today in bars. They’re used in the home or in commercial bars. They are fixtures that make your feet comfortable and they can make any bar look classy.

Apart from its aesthetic sense, foot rails have a purpose. By its name alone, it’s meant to provide comfort to the feet whether a person is standing or seated on a chair. It can be quite tiring to just stand with both feet on the ground but with a foot rail in place, you can stand with the other feet elevated for added comfort.

Foot rails can also be added to trucks. To succeed in the installation process, you have to get the proper measurement and read the instructions well. Holes will also have to be drilled on the truck’s body or chassis to attach the rails using screws. The purpose of foot rails in trucks is to serve as resting place for the feet. It also makes for a unique look.

It’s amazing how the plain tubing has been made into a more functional fixture. Without this material, the bar could have remained simple and a drab. The fact is, foot rails are available today in different materials which means you can match it with the theme of your interior space.

Wood is a popular and classic choice but other materials have evolved to provide people with more choices. There’s the metal foot rail that has become a preferred option these days. It can be made from stainless steel, aluminum or brass. The brass rail evokes an elegant look because of its yellow finish that resembles the color of gold. Finishes vary as well such as the polished copper, bronze, brass, stainless steel, satin stainless steel, satin nickel and powder coated colors.

Foot rails need not be a straight line all the time. With so many companies manufacturing this fixture nowadays, customization is the current trend. There are those that can expertly bend and miter foot rail tubings to fit any bar measurement especially those that have corners. Foot rails can also be ordered in specific lengths for people who want to install the fixture on their own.

Other components are required to complete any foot rail project. These are the end caps, flush fittings, flanges and the post and floor brackets.

The end caps complete the look of your foot rails. They can be flat, round or decorative depending on your preference. This component is easy to install you just need to slip it on the end of the tubing. But you can use a strong glue to keep it secured.

Foot rail brackets come in different types as well. The combination type is one which can be mounted to the floor and to the bar itself. These are secured using the screws. For one foot rail, you will need several brackets which should be placed at a distance of six inches from the end of the tubing or at least three brackets for an eight-foot rail.

Preparation is key to installing a great foot rail. This ensures that the measurements and your materials are correct.

WHAT WE DO CLAIM

In the 2011-2012 financial year, the most recent period Australian Tax Office stats are available for, more than 623,000 Victorians made deduction claims on rental property expenses. The most common were for council rates, 564,890 claims, water charges, 539, 890, insurance, 476, 055, interest on their loans, 474,375, property agent fees, 443, 430, and repairs and maintenance, 437, 625. Less commonly claimed were legal fees, 15, 630, pest control, 19, 575, and cleaning expenses, 62, 835. H&R Block regional director Frank Brass said many property owners were aware of most of the things they could claim – but there were gaps.

WHAT WE DON’T CLAIM

Most property investors probably were not claiming everything they could be, according to Mr Brass. “Part of it is it’s so difficult to know what sort of records you need to keep and people just give up on trying to keep them,” he said. “(And) they are scared of doing the wrong thing.” But there is no reason to be. If your records, receipts and invoices are in good order and even if you’ve prepared them yourself, so long as you have done it to the best of your ability and are not being fraudulent, then the tax office is generally understanding, Mr Brass said. He also noted you could claim a fifth of your borrowing expenses for the first five years after you bought.

This compensates stamp duty and legal expenses charged on the mortgage. Meanwhile, Bradley Beer, the managing director at BMT tax depreciation specialists, estimated between 70 and 80 per cent of investors were not getting the maximum return on depreciation claims. “The average first year of deductions for a first full year of owning a property is about $10,000, and over 10 years it’s about $7000 per year,” Mr Beer said. He described depreciation claims as a way of having the value of wear and tear on the structure of your property accommodated by the tax office. “The building is wearing out, even if the property is gaining value,” Mr Beer said. To get the most out of this you would likely need to see a quantity surveyor – and it’s not just new properties that can make claims. “If you bought a house 10 years ago and five years ago spent $100,000 on a renovation, there are things in there that will still be depreciating, even if you have missed the first five years,” Mr Beer said. Plus you can claim from the moment you rent it out, Mr Beer said. The same applies if you buy a renovated property.

WHAT TO WATCH FOR

Mr Brass said many people were caught out when they redrew against the equity in an investment property for personal use, and did not adjust the amount they claimed for on their interest.

“You are no longer able to claim the full interest on the loan,” he said. “And what has caught people out for many years is they don’t think to apportion the interest.” There are instances where a couple may buy a property in both their names but have one of them make the tax claims and Mr Brass noted people have been caught out by this.

“You need to handle the tax side of the property according to the names on the title,” he said. He also said that if you were claiming depreciation, those claims would be returned to the Government when you sell the property and added to your capital gains tax payment. For holiday home owners it is important to remember you can only claim against them as an investment when you actually rent them out.

If you are planning to sell, the waiver to capital gains tax only applies to your principal place of residence for the time you have lived in it. The 50 per cent reduction to the tax only applies if you have owned the property for more than 12 months.

CLAIMS TO CONSIDER

– Advertising for tenants;

– Owners corporation fees;

– Gardening and lawn mowing;

– Interest on loans;

– Quantity surveyor’s fees;

– Building materials including concrete, floorboards and tiles can be claimed as

depreciations;

– Carpet, garbage bins, mechanised doors and blinds can also be claimed as they age;

– Apartment and unit buyers can potentially also claim against common areas;

– Travel expenses for property inspections;

– Insurance;

*Source: BMT, H and R Block and News.com.au

1. Make your own cleaning products

• Vinegar

It is widely known that white vinegar is one of our best friends when cleaning. It is powerful enough to dissolve grime from smooth surfaces, yet it cleans hardwood floorings without damaging them. White vinegar can be used to neutralise unpleasant smells, too. When you undertake a cleaning task around the kitchen, mix water with vinegar and use the solution to clean countertops and backsplash zones. In the bathroom, you can use the very same solution for cleaning the shower/tub walls and even the outside of the toilet. If the grime is too stubborn, heat the cleaning solution in the microwave and spray the affected area. Let the solution sit for a couple of minutes. Then rinse and that’s it. Did you know that you can use vinegar as a fabric softener substitute, too? It is perfect especially if you have a sensitive skin.

• Baking soda

The baking soda is the perfect replacement for expensive store-bought cleaning detergents. Sprinkle some soda onto a dampened sponge or a towel to deal with dirt particles. It has deodorising properties which is only another advantage. If the grime is a lot tougher than you thought, mix water with baking soda till paste is formed and apply it to the affected areas. The paste has to sit for about 15 minutes till the dirt deposits can be removed.

• Rubbing alcohol

To wash the window or other glass surfaces, use rubbing alcohol.

2. Use old rags instead of paper towels

If you want to save more money then using paper towels is not the right step you need to take. Actually, rags are much more absorbent than a paper towel. When they get dirty, you can easily launder them in the washing machine.

3. Ketchup to shine brass?

Yes, this is not a joke. You can use ketchup to shine brass! So it is not necessary to buy a specialised brass detergent which definitely costs a lot of money. If you have ketchup in your fridge, all your problems are solved. Put a small amount of ketchup on a towel, scrub the surface and then rinse!

4. Dish soap for the win

Not many people know it but dish soap can be used not only for washing the dishes. It can also remove stains. If you accidentally drop something on the carpet, treat the stain with a solution of warm water and a liquid dish soap. Forget about rushing to the near store to bye expensive carpet stain remover.

5. Make your own Laundry Soap

You do not have to throw away precious money on buying a specialised laundry detergent when you can make your own at home. You will need 1 cup of washing soda, 1 cup of borax, a few drops of essential oil and a bar of grated bar soap. Start with grating the soap, then the washing soda an borax should be mixed. Simply add a dew drops of essential oils and mix all of the ingredients. Keep in hermetically sealed container or a jar.

Do you have other secret ideas to saving money at home?

Most people think of indoor lighting when they talk about sconce lighting but today, outdoor sconce lighting has become a very popular choice. What makes lighting of this type so unique is that it offers a completely different look than you would get from traditional outdoor lighting. As you will discover, exterior lighting in the form of sconces is ideal not just for homeowners but also business owners.

In keeping with the style, outdoor sconce lighting attaches to the wall. However, because this type of lighting is so versatile and available in thousands of designs and styles, a fixture could be attached in several areas. For instance, a sconce could be installed by a front door, back door, in between two garage doors, a basement entry door, walkway, etc.

Often, people will use outdoor sconce lighting more for aesthetics but because of options and varying degrees of illumination, this type of lighting is also a great choice for security. Installing one or even two sconces by an entry door would produce enough light to make the home or business owner feel safe by being able to see clearly. This added to the beautiful styles and you end up with a perfect outdoor solution.

To show you the kind of outdoor sconce lighting you will find, we wanted to provide details on a few of the more popular choices. If you have a contemporary style home, you can never go wrong with copper. However, taking the style to a new level, a 15-inch tall outdoor sconce lighting fixture that combines brass with slate is stunning. These two materials together with a geometric style light are not just contemporary in nature but also innovative.

If your home sits on or near a beach or the architectural features are clean, you may consider an outdoor sconce lighting fixture designed with gently curving opal glass coupled with heavy brass trim. With the minimal lines, the opal glass area provides significant illumination yet the brass trim gives the fixture a sense of elegance. Another possibility that has more of a Baroque or medieval look is made with a dark walnut finish and oversized decorative scrolls. Then with the champagne colored glass, the entire look is simply gorgeous.

If your home is traditional or transitional in style, then chances are good the architectural features are a perfect balance between old and new. To complement this look with outdoor sconce lighting, a forge Mission fixture would make a perfect choice. Measuring 12 inches tall, this mosaic light has flair of artistry that complements the amber glass insert and hand-wrought design. However, choosing an outdoor sconce lighting fixture made from rust-free aluminum, you would enjoy a durable and long-lasting choice.

You will also find amazing choices for outdoor sconce lighting if your home has a country or rustic appeal. For instance, you could take home characteristics literal by choosing a fixture made from powder-coated iron or cast aluminum that looks like a grove of pine trees. Encased inside the tree shapes would be the bulb, protected by a clear piece of glass. Now, if an outdoor sconce lighting solution such as this is too themed, you could still coordinate with a country or rustic home by choosing a boxed light fixture with frames of dark brass, almond mica panes, and a pine cone, pine tree, leaf, or tree branch design on the front.

There are literally thousands upon thousands of possibilities when it comes to outdoor sconce lighting fixtures. Because of so many options, some people feel a little overwhelmed when they first start shopping around. To avoid this and be able to focus on the exact lighting solution wanted, start with a plan so you know where you want the outdoor sconce lighting to go, the number of fixtures needed, and the overall look and feel you hope to achieve. With this as your guideline, the selection process would be enjoyable instead of daunting.

One dependable way to get real copper products is to order from a company that is well known. However, if one is in the market for a copper range hood or sink it’s important to verify its real so that they can properly appraise it and make an informed purchase.

Whether a copper range hood, sink, slab, cookware or other copper item here are some tips to recognizing if it’s real copper or not.

Coloring

Real copper will have a reddish brown appearance, and brass or mixed metals will take on a yellow color. A visual inspection is one way to tell if an item might be brass. A great idea is to compare it with a penny, as the color of a copper penny will closely match.

Look for the Codes

Brass is usually marked with a special code, and it will start with a C and have three numbers after it. Look for this special code as an indicator that the item in question is definitely not Copper. Even when one thinks they have a copper range hood it’s important to note that manufacturers can disguise brass as copper.

Scratch It

Test and inconspicuous area of the copper range hood or item by gently filing it with a metal file. If it remains a copper finish then it’s whole copper, if it starts to appear white then it’s fake. Usually in this case it is pot metal with copper coating.

The Magnet Trick

Try and stick a magnet to the copper range hood. If it sticks, it’s likely steel masquerading as copper. If it falls there is a chance the item is truly copper.

Seek Professional Advice

If all else fails and it hasn’t been determined whether the item is real copper or not, take it to a professional. They can easily tell the difference between various metals. A home design expert or someone who works with metals is the best bet in this case.

The Copper Trend

There is a huge trend in copper for 2016, and it’s being displayed in all areas of the home from the kitchen to bathrooms and everything in between. Here are some of the more popular items to add to a home:

• Range hoods – Make this the centerpiece of any kitchen for that “wow” factor.
• Sinks – Whether above the counter or below, copper sinks look beautiful in kitchens and bathrooms.
• Faucets – Add a rustic element to any type décor with a copper faucet.
• Backsplashes – Copper backsplashes are extremely popular in modern homes.
• Vases and decorative items – Touches of copper can be added in vases, frames, soap dishes and more.
• Shelves – Copper shelves work in any room of the house.
• Coat racks – A classic copper coat rack by the door is perfect for guests and organization.
• Cookware – Copper in cookware helps disperse heat evenly for great dishes.

Copper is especially popular in kitchens as it naturally deters bacteria. It also has a unique finish that can change over time or be shined back to its original luster. Any modern homeowner owes it to themselves to consider adding copper to their décor. It works well in any style from contemporary, to cozy cabin, beachside escapes and classic style homes.

There really are no rules for how to add copper, and all of these options are equally popular. There are plenty of dealers online as well as specialist stores worldwide where copper products can be found.

When a home inspector inspects a home, plumbing is one of the critical systems he examines for his report to you. Naturally, one of the first things he will do is to check faucets and fixtures, looking for leaks. According to the American Water Works Association, almost 15 percent of all the water used in a typical household is wasted through plumbing leaks, leaky faucets and wasted water.

Finding and fixing leaks will save money on water and energy bills. Furthermore, water damage to floors and the foundation is all too common and must be dealt with to prevent further problems.

Also, though it sounds silly and unnecessary at first, your home inspector will make sure cold water comes from the right side and hot water from the left when faucets are turned on. That’s the conventional standard. You wouldn’t want anyone to be surprised by getting scalded in the shower because they thought they were turning on the cold water.

Your inspector will check the type and condition of water pipes, which are usually made of copper, brass, or galvanized steel. Copper is the most desirable material, with brass next, and galvanized steel the least desirable.

Copper is best for water distribution piping. It lasts the longest and is usually trouble free. As for brass pipes, mineral content in the water affects their durability. White mineral deposits on brass pipes means there are pinhole leaks. This shows the pipes are deteriorating and may need replaced at some point in the future.

Galvanized steel pipes corrode on the inside which constricts water flow. It’s like trying to merge three lanes of highway traffic into two or even one. When these pipes are in poor condition, using more than one water fixture at a time causes problems. For example, if someone is taking a shower, avoid flushing the toilet, using the dishwasher or the washing machine because the shower will either become very hot or cold.

When you’re purchasing a home, your inspector should tell you what material the plumbing pipes are made of and what condition they’re in. Replacing water distribution piping is quite costly, should it be necessary.

Your inspector should also let you know about the water supply pipe that brings water into the home. Again, copper is the best material because, if the pipe is made of galvanized steel, it could have the same corrosion problem noted above. If this pipe is made from lead, excessive amounts of lead may be leaching into the water, which poses a health hazard. The best solution is to replace this pipe. However, this costs thousands of dollars.

If contaminants such as lead are coming into the home’s water supply, consider adding a water filtration system where water enters the building. Also consider adding a water treatment system in the kitchen where water is used for drinking and cooking.

The water heater is another important item your inspector will check. If it’s a gas water heater, it must be installed properly and allow for good ventilation. A metal flue pipe must let toxic gases flow up and out of the home through a chimney. Improper ventilation will result in accumulation of toxic and deadly carbon monoxide. If the flue pipe slopes downward it should be repaired and replaced. Heat from the water heater’s gas combustion must rise upward, as it is meant to do.

These are just some of the plumbing issues your home inspector’s report will address. A home’s plumbing is one of the most important areas in need of attention before a home is purchased or sold. Spotting and taking care of problems now will keep many problems in the future at bay.