To the casual observer, each wave in the ocean appears identical to the one that preceded it. One after another, they roll toward the shore, with little to distinguish them.
Surfers know better. They’re more in tune with the sea and recognise that numerous factors play a role. The presence or absence of any one of those factors has a significant effect on their shape.
To surfers, it’s both art and science, with nature generating the energy necessary to mold the ocean to its will. The result is a range of breaks, swells, and waves that surf enthusiasts aspire to master. In the space below, we’ll introduce you to the different types and describe what makes each of them unique.
How Are Surfing Waves Created?
Every wave is a result of solar energy, wind energy, and the ocean floor’s topography. The sun heats the earth, which generates wind. The wind pushes across the water, causing ripples. Momentum builds behind the ripples to ultimately form waves. At the same time, the topography of the sea floor helps to give them shape.
Different Types Of Swells And Breaks
A swell is a specific type of wave, generated by wind that blows across the ocean’s surface over a vast area (measured in kilometres). The energy builds and ultimately forms swells, which influence surf conditions.
You’ve probably heard the term “groundswell.” This swell is produced by winds blowing through large weather patterns, such as rainstorms. It travels long distances and holds considerable power.
Another is called a wind swell. It forms as a result of local winds, and hence contains less vigour than a groundswell.
Swells continue to gain energy deep waters. But as they approach shallower waters, that energy is discharged through a surf break. This occurs when the bottom portion is no longer able to support the top portion. It essentially collapses upon itself.
There are four kinds of surf breaks that are produced by swells: beach, point, reef, and shore. A beach break occurs when a wave makes contact with the sandy portion of the ocean floor; a point when a wave hits a piece of land; a reef when a wave touches a coral reef or similar mass, and a shore break results when it approaches the shore.
Types Of Surfing Waves Created By Various Breaks
The following waves can be found around the islands, as well as other spots throughout the world. The quality of the wave varies by location. It’s influenced by a number of factors, including the size of the underlying swell, the amount of wind, and the local currents.
Reforms break multiple times. This effect is the result of variations in the depth of the seabed.
Closeouts break all at once. Rather than breaking over a distance, they do so in one single breath.
Crumbly waves are ideal for those who are learning how to surf. They carry very little power and break softly.
Tubes are commonly ridden by pros and skilled amateurs. They create barrels in which the surfers ride. Most beginners avoid them, and for good reason.
Recognising the types of swells, breaks, and waves and understanding the mechanics behind how they’re created, will help you to better navigate them. You’ll learn how each one behaves, and be able to employ the proper surfing techniques to successfully ride them.
Having said that, nothing takes the place of experience. That means grabbing your board and venturing out.
